The aesthetics and super simplicity of DT's do appeal to me, having grown up with them. But based on function I'm definitely in the bar-end camp for touring. If I did want DT shifters, I agree with you and the others, and go with the Velo-Orange.

My first touring bike was an old Miyata with friction DT shifters. They were ok but not great, and I eventually upgraded to a set of indexed bar end shifters. Since then, I've had a couple different bikes with indexed DT shifters - both now gone, alas - and found that I liked them a lot. In fact, I would say that I greatly prefer them to bar end shifters. They have a very nice, immediate feel thanks to the short, direct cable runs, there are no shifter housings coming out of the handlebar tape at awkward spots, and they don't get bumped when you are trying just to move the bike around. And reach isn't really an issue for me, though that probably has to do with the size of the frames I ride. If I were to build a touring bike today and decided not to go with STI integrated shifters, indexed DT shifters would be my choice. I would never consider friction shifting, however. That's just a pointless downgrade.

Electric, it is already here. Possibly not ideal for everyone's idea of what touring should be, though the gaggle of electronics a lot of folks already have on their handlebars may say differently.


The obvious advantage to DT for the front, is that the shorter cable run leads to a very precise shift. Not the best of STI , only works fabulously on the rear, And when you want to crack into a higher gear, and sprint for it, you have zero delay. Not sure that is where it is at on a touring bike. Sometimes something nasty happens, like the blacktop turns out to be soft, and you are about to topple over if you don't drop a ring, and you need your hands on the bars to stay upright. Not lance's biggest worry in the days he was racing.

I was referring to the ergonomics of STI more than anything. I don't know if it's ingenious, or whether it's a weird frankenstein monster, or both.

I've discussed this before but shifting with the brake lever is not a great idea, IMO. The shift levers or buttons should be separate from the brake lever. The narrow ridge on the side of the brake lever constitutes a very narrow surface area and serves as a very poor candidate as a surface to initiate shifts from.

On top of that, a tourer does not want to be SOL with a dead battery. I would much rather have a slower shifting conventional derailleur than have to concern myself with the prospect of a battery failing. To each his own.

Amen to that! Folks ask for advice and others give it based on their emotional state due to experience and level of satisfaction. Because YMMV, some folks decide to reject the given advice and viola!! No, I am not a psychiatrist - just a happy tourer who is always willing to try and improve my situation...

Vive la difference. Get going folks and use whatever you want - with whatever level of satisfaction/dissatisfaction you experience.

YMMV is such a NICE "phrase"

PS ... I do not use STI units because I do bicycle in the Australian outback (mostly) and need reliable shifters like bar ends. that said, i will use a new SA 8-speed rear hub on my next adventure and see how it works

S-A 8-speed rear hub is even better when in a small wheel bike , like a folding bike .. because low is the 1:1 1st gear .. so hard to gear a big wheel down below

its diameter. (25:24)

I appreciate all the replies.For the time,i'll be keeping my bar-ends and using them in friction unless I can find some Dt shifters at a lbs as I only buy from lbs's.
Thanks a bunch......Kevin