Anyone use this? I'm wondering the best approach for treating the frame. I don't want to have to disassemble the whole bike, can I just squirt this stuff into tube openings and let it dry?

Yep, did it to my recent build. Best if the bike is totally dissembled, because you're going to have to twist and turn the frame all around to distribute/coat all the inside surfaces. So it is certainly much easier with a stripped frame. What is the necessity to use it in you're mind? i.e. in my situation, I had a brand new bike that I had cut and added S&S couplers, and since the frame was bare, it just made sense for the added protection.

I live in Portland, Oregon and it rains...a lot. Just a little extra insurance for a steel frame. I figured disassembly was best, but I just didn't want to acknowledge it...thanks for responding.

Totally unnecessary for most, can't do any real harm.

Ideally you would apply before bike is assembled but it shouldn't be a huge pain to do this if you're miles and miles beyond that by now.

Pulling seat post is easy. that will get you to seat tube, top tube and seat stays.

removing fork is easy. this will get you to top tube, down tube and head tube. additionally you can get to fork easily at this step.

The last thing you'll need to do is remove the bottom bracket. the only hassle is the need for tools other than an hex key. this will let you get to chain stays, seat tube, down tube, and bottom bracket shell. so much water collects in this area that it's probably the most important part to treat.

Anyone concerned enough to contemplate using Frame Saver is unlikely to treat their bike harshly enough to need it.

I've used it on two steel bikes I've built.
I applied it to the new frame *before* I began assembling the bike.

I used it on my new frame. As others have said it is probably unnecessary but since I had a unbuilt frame I figured I'd be anal and use it. It is sticky and messy so be prepared to get it on your components.

I've had linseed oil recommended as an equally effective alternative.

Sorry, this makes no sense to me.
I bought a Bob Jackson frame a few years back, and the factory applied frame saver cost a mere £10 extra. A no-brainer imho which hardly reflects on how I tour.

its too thick to spray in a built bike, you have to turn the frame every which way to get it to run down inside the tubes to fully coat them

when I bought my '90 Steel Pinarello Cross frame the Bike shop I got it thru 'frame savered' the bare frame

as part of their services for my buying it from them.

best approach ? they used to Dip the whole car body at AMC in a tank of Zn Cromate primer .
to cover the whole thing inside and out , then it went to the paint shop fot the outside colors.
a bike frame would take a smaller tank .. a fill and dump is also a possible technique..

So, what harshness have you subjected your bike to that you feel necessitated the frame saver? Where is your bike stored now and in what condition is it?

Actually I think you misunderstood my point. For a steel bike to rust from the inside out would require an extreme level of abuse that I think would be unlikely for anyone on this site to subject their bike to. I've got a 40yo steel frame that's gone through a lot of rough use including 20 years in an outside shed. I ride it regularly now and have no worries about it's integrity.

With all that said, I did buy a Trucker Deluxe Frame that I sprayed with Frame Saver. I did so because I figured it would be a good selling point should I decide to sell it in the future. I would not have done it otherwise.

Boeshield T9 works just as well. All of my steel frames were treated with it because I ride in winter. The difference between my bike and my co-worker's untreated bike after 2years was huge. It's not unnecessary.

I use motorcycle chain grease for both my bikes. It sprays on evenly and becomes sticky when it drys. I had my frame stripped the other day and after 3 years it's still sticky and coated. Personally I would use it again.
Frame Saver is prohibitively expensive as far as I can see.

How much is motorcycle chain grease and how do you apply it to the inside of the frame? Frame Saver is 10-15 bucks for enough to do a few frames and it's easy to apply.

You look inside their tubes?

There are several products that work well. A lot of people swear by Boshield, I use LPS-3 which is an industrial strength rust inhibitor available at most Ace hardware stores. Just spray in the tubes openings, it's best to turn and shake the frame a bit and do it a second time. Let it dry overnight and build it up. Can't do anything but good.

Marc

You don't have much choice when you service their bikes.

In had corrosion wear out one bottom bracket and lock a seatpost in my steel frame in 3 years. I even greased the seatpost, but a Massachusetts winter riding every single day will do that to a bike. I am now replacing the frame.

Framesaver isn't completely useless... I'll probably do it this time around. Some people really ride hard enough to want it. That being said, I don't care if it's rusty. I just want to keep riding.

My 1984 Ross Mt. Rainier has somehow lasted without the use of a rust inhibitor inside the frame. I still love that bike.

I treated the mountain bike frame that I TIG-welded myself with Frame Saver before assembling it. Didn't think I really needed it, but given the amount of time I spent building the frame, the extreme thinness of modern steel tubing and the cheap cost ($12 for 3+ frames worth) it didn't seem worth it to roll the dice.

Having recently restored a 1970's Schwinn Typhoon, I'm sort of happy that I used Frame Saver. The Schwinn hadn't been treated, as far as I know, and it's still solid as a rock! But... every tube I can examine has a light (or in some cases, not so light) coating of rust on the inside. Luckily, the Schwinn's tubes are many times thicker than the tubes I used...

Then it definitely makes sense.

Five winters ago, had a lugged steel custom bike built as my primary commuter. Before bike build, cleaned and brushed the internal tubing as far as I could reach - then gave the insides a good coat of Boeshield. Made sure it dripped out of the limber holes, also checked to make sure none were plugged. Plus put a second coat in the lower seat tube and bottom bracket area. This bike has been ridden thousands of km year around in just about ant imaginable weather. Late in the spring the bottom bracket needed replacement, while I doing this- also took the seat tube out to inspect for rust - found none. Put a new coat of Boeshield around bottom bracket area- then reassembled it. Not sure if the Boeshield really helped or not, perhaps it helped my sense of well-being. However my bike frame innards were pretty clean. Aside from additional expense, not sure there is a down side to doing it.

When I ordered a custom built frame for my wife from a well known builder, I asked about using frame saver;the reply was, "we don't use it".

Having said that, I did use Frame Saver on a frame I built up for myself. It was before I talked to the guys who built my wife's bike. It sure can't hurt anything.

paint the inside .. first.


tape over the holes slosh it around then pour it out , enough will stick .

let it dry and there you go .. seat stay may be the only one you have to get in thru the vent holes