11.4

EAI apparently found a big stash of the cleats, so they are reasonably available now. Of course the price is closer to $60 than $20, where it was a couple years ago. There was an Australian copy done in aluminum that someone should try to make another batch of -- they ate up the black pedal cages but they were really solid. The pedals themselves are actually getting harder to find than the cleats. Toe clips aren't a problem if you can use size L (which is a Japanese L, i.e., more like a M in a Campy). If you need XL, they are pretty much unavailable. Size L's you can find plenty of if by no other means than by buying old AX pedals -- they used the same clips and came with size L. It's still not cheap, but they're available.

However, toe clips aren't all that necessary with 7400 pedals, at least on the track. The toe clip really only serves to hold the toe strap in place, which you need for frequent insertion and withdrawal on the road, but on the track you have the luxury of getting into your pedals at leisure. The toe clip just makes for nasty blowout-prone tire overlap on many bikes and doesn't necessarily do much. So while some riders have gone without toe clips on these pedals because they couldn't find them, or because they needed a bigger size than was available, it frankly isn't much of a loss. Try it without them and you might be pleasantly surprised at the comfort and versatility.

CafeRacer

Im guessing this is how it should look........?



Any tips on getting rid of the float?

11.4

Cafe,

Yup, that's about it. You might want the bracket longer or shorter, or even try it in front (under the middle of the pedal), to see what gives you the best comfort and the greatest security.

To change the float, you must mean you're riding the SM-SH91 pedals, which are one of three cleats made for these pedals (in their last incarnation, the SM-SH90, 91, and 92, which offer 0, 3, and 6 degrees of float). Switch cleats. You can still get them if you look around, or your local shop can order them from QBP. They last forever.

Has anyone following this thread noticed that 7700's are a bit tighter and tend not to want to engage the SM-SH90 zero-float cleats as readily as the 7701's do? It only seems to be an issue with the zero-float cleats -- the 91's do just fine with any of the pedals. I have a mixture of pedals on different bikes and find this pretty consistently.

Tomity

G'day mate!!
This is Tomity from very cold Tokyo Japan

The model of Shimano SPD-R for track that I had assembled before was breakable.

I assembled this pedal at the request of the friend.
I made the strap holder from a stainless steel.

11.4

Tomity,

Now that looks like a really nice way to put a strap on SPD-R's. You could even reposition the welded strap slightly so it helps slide your foot right into the strap and the pedal without the cleat catching on the back of the pedal. Would you like to do some more of those?

Richard Kennedy

One point that hasn't been mentioned for having straps on clipless pedals is to prevent power loss when the upper of the shoes stretch. OK this isn't an issue for most mortals but when you get to world level sprinting/kilos there is discernable stretch happening on standing starts and hard jumps. A tight good quality strap eliminates this. Think I'm making this up? I know that one of the UK squad ripped the upper from the sole of his shoe in a standing start training session! Scary.

CafeRacer

Id buy that! My shoes are 3 or 4 seasons old now not only to they stretch but the velcro is gettn old.

yonderboy

I'm going to bump this thread again...

Do you guys run with the pontoons on the cleats? I'm having a problem disengaging my cleats in the outward direction, but if I whack my heel inward, they pop out. I think the pontoons are hanging up on the pedal body, but I haven't gotten out of my shoes to look yet. Other people have had the same experience, from what I've ready.

I would like to be able to walk around in the shoes, but I guess it's not that big of a deal if I remove them.

11.4

Wonderboy,

I always thought that they were designed to release inwards. I just checked a couple pair with shoes (not on my feet) and they both release much more easily with an inwards twist. So I don't think you have anything wrong. And I doubt the pontoons are hanging up, as long as you have them mounted correctly. They are just relatively tough to release from. That's why they failed as road pedals.

Tomity

I made SPD-R track pedals for velodrome competiter

ZappCatt

Sweeet!!!

f1junkie

Here's a link to eBay I found for SPD-R pedals......

https://cgi.ebay.ca/Shimano-Dura-Ace-...QQcmdZViewItem

Might be a good deal for some of you folks!

Dave

No_Minkah

Hi, bumping an old thread, but can someone fill me in on the story of the difference between SPD-R and SPD-SL, and whether SPD-SL still works for a really solid track pedal? Like the Ultegra R600?

Also, is the cleat for these Shimano pedals like this incompatible with older-style Look pedals?

mickster

SPD-R - Older discontinued clipless system uses an all metal cleat. Designed primarily for the road, these proved to be awkward for some to clip in and (especially) out of. As a result was never all that popular with roadies and was eventually replaced by Shimanos new SPD-SL system. Trackies, however, have found the system to feel particularly secure, and the clipping in/out issues weren't such a problem on the track. The metal cleat is also less likely to break under standing start pressures than a plastic cleat. These are available used but are getting rarer. The cleat uses a two hole system so getting compatible shoes is an issue nowadays. These are commonly used - in conjunction with a strap - by a number of world class sprinters who have moved away from traditional clips and straps.

SPD-SL - The replacement for the above system. Uses a much wider triangular shaped 3 hole plastic cleat. Again intended primarily for roadies. Has been much more popular than earlier system and is in fairly widespread use. System feels secure, and is v easy to clip in/out of. Plastic cleats are large and help spread the load on the sole of the foot, but there is a perceived risk of a cleat breaking under extreme standing start type forces, espy if cleat is worn. Cleats come in float and no float flavours. They are not interchangeable with the Look system. SPD-SLs are pretty common on tracks, esp in the endurance events, at all levels of competition including world cups etc.

I've come up with a mod for these pedals that allows a strap to be added for extra security and to help counter the shoe stretching issue mentioned above:

https://www.badbean.com/blog/?page_id=244

I race both endurance and sprints with these pedals (R600) and have found that they're fine for either activity. I use the mod above for standing starts (ie kilo and team sprint).

HTH

CafeRacer

Giddion Massie of the United States uses the SL system withdouble straps attached. Im not sure exactly how he did it but it obviously works. The problem with the SL system is by the time you add the strap the pedal sits quite low to the ground. Even in conpairison with clip and strap pedals you run more of a risk clipping the track at low speeds or agressive tactic.

Alot of sprinters are turning to the Speedplay Zero with double straps. It doesnt feel as secure as an SPD R at first but once you get used to them apparantly they work very well. Lawrence Laroux of the Canadian sprint team uses them. In trials he did the opening fastest lap Ive ever seen and had no issues.

Im sticking with my SPD R's