New model RFC
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Matthew Grimm / Flunky
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It's time to order some more FG frames and we're thinking about making a model that will be useful for those who ride on the track.
This is our kickoff Request For Comment.
Tell us what you want.
This is our kickoff Request For Comment.
Tell us what you want.
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i'll begin-
lugged steel (of course)
actual track geometry (75 parallel, say?)
fork w/ flatcrown and round blades (1 inch threaded)
lugged steel (of course)
actual track geometry (75 parallel, say?)
fork w/ flatcrown and round blades (1 inch threaded)
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Originally Posted by crust & crumb
i'll begin-
lugged steel (of course)
actual track geometry (75 parallel, say?)
fork w/ flatcrown and round blades (1 inch threaded)
lugged steel (of course)
actual track geometry (75 parallel, say?)
fork w/ flatcrown and round blades (1 inch threaded)
I 'll add no oversize tubing.
Seat tube 75/ Head tube 74.
stiffen the bb area for sprint model.
S/F,
CEYA!
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Matthew Grimm / Flunky
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Originally Posted by crust & crumb
lugged steel
Look for TIG.
actual track geometry
So far we have pretty short chainstays. high bottom bracket and 74 parallel.
fork w/ flatcrown and round blades (1 inch threaded)
Hmmm..,.
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Originally Posted by Ceya
you beat me to it CC.
S/F,
CEYA!
S/F,
CEYA!
Really... Last time I asked there was no 25.4mm tubing in Taiwan.
Seat tube 75/ Head tube 74
We had to agree on something.
stiffen the bb area for sprint model
Sprint model, eh? I'll have to check with RS first.
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Originally Posted by Surferbruce
just please offer a drilled fork option.
Of course. What production builder offers more fork options?
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i see bottle cage bosses. lose em!
if it's not going to be lugged, then put me down for O/S tubing (sorry CEYA)
straight blade fork?
ship the drilled forks with a colour matched plug to hide the hole. like an acorn nut or something.
no brake drilling on the rear.
more than 2 sizes?
if it's not going to be lugged, then put me down for O/S tubing (sorry CEYA)
straight blade fork?
ship the drilled forks with a colour matched plug to hide the hole. like an acorn nut or something.
no brake drilling on the rear.
more than 2 sizes?
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- STEEL
- I would like 74 seat tube and 75 head tube, the bike it will be more easy and fast at handling. More responsive, a 75 even bike will do the frame too hard for the street, So 74 and 75 will do in both worlds.
- Please use 24 mms chain stays and fork blades (both rounded)... the regular road chainstays arent enough for a track because they are flimpsy... tange still is doing those tubes so far today...
- Lugged or not isnt a problem nowadays, whichever will be fine.
- Between 27.5 and 28.5 cms bb hight it will do in both worlds just fine.
- Frame size must be c-t
- Do not add a drill for a rear brake.. the frame it will looks kind'a puaj with that hole there.
- As somebody said, add or sell another fork with the brake drill on it. Somebody would like the bike for racing and a drill in the fork looks kind'a puaj again... (im a classic ex racer ok?)
- DO two models, one for serius track people and other for street people???
- Tubing?.. well any tube Brand will do fine as the frame has the right geometry, but I insist 24 mms rounded chain stays and fork blades is the way to go.
Thanks...
- I would like 74 seat tube and 75 head tube, the bike it will be more easy and fast at handling. More responsive, a 75 even bike will do the frame too hard for the street, So 74 and 75 will do in both worlds.
- Please use 24 mms chain stays and fork blades (both rounded)... the regular road chainstays arent enough for a track because they are flimpsy... tange still is doing those tubes so far today...
- Lugged or not isnt a problem nowadays, whichever will be fine.
- Between 27.5 and 28.5 cms bb hight it will do in both worlds just fine.
- Frame size must be c-t
- Do not add a drill for a rear brake.. the frame it will looks kind'a puaj with that hole there.
- As somebody said, add or sell another fork with the brake drill on it. Somebody would like the bike for racing and a drill in the fork looks kind'a puaj again... (im a classic ex racer ok?)
- DO two models, one for serius track people and other for street people???
- Tubing?.. well any tube Brand will do fine as the frame has the right geometry, but I insist 24 mms rounded chain stays and fork blades is the way to go.
Thanks...
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Matthew Grimm / Flunky
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Originally Posted by baxtefer
i see bottle cage bosses. lose em!
if it's not going to be lugged, then put me down for O/S tubing (sorry CEYA)
straight blade fork?
ship the drilled forks with a colour matched plug to hide the hole. like an acorn nut or something.
no brake drilling on the rear.
more than 2 sizes?
if it's not going to be lugged, then put me down for O/S tubing (sorry CEYA)
straight blade fork?
ship the drilled forks with a colour matched plug to hide the hole. like an acorn nut or something.
no brake drilling on the rear.
more than 2 sizes?
How about this - an undrilled tubular bridge with a vent hole that can act as a pilot hole if someone wants to drill. I don't mind undrilled, but I hate not being able to drill.
Same on the front. The crowns are undrilled so we'll just put in a tiny pilot hole.
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Matthew Grimm / Flunky
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Originally Posted by ultraman6970
- STEEL
- I would like 74 seat tube and 75 head tube, the bike it will be more easy and fast at handling. More responsive, a 75 even bike will do the frame too hard for the street, So 74 and 75 will do in both worlds.
- Please use 24 mms chain stays and fork blades (both rounded)... the regular road chainstays arent enough for a track because they are flimpsy... tange still is doing those tubes so far today...
- Lugged or not isnt a problem nowadays, whichever will be fine.
- Between 27.5 and 28.5 cms bb hight it will do in both worlds just fine.
- Frame size must be c-t
- Do not add a drill for a rear brake.. the frame it will looks kind'a puaj with that hole there.
- As somebody said, add or sell another fork with the brake drill on it. Somebody would like the bike for racing and a drill in the fork looks kind'a puaj again... (im a classic ex racer ok?)
- DO two models, one for serius track people and other for street people???
- Tubing?.. well any tube Brand will do fine as the frame has the right geometry, but I insist 24 mms rounded chain stays and fork blades is the way to go.
Thanks...
- I would like 74 seat tube and 75 head tube, the bike it will be more easy and fast at handling. More responsive, a 75 even bike will do the frame too hard for the street, So 74 and 75 will do in both worlds.
- Please use 24 mms chain stays and fork blades (both rounded)... the regular road chainstays arent enough for a track because they are flimpsy... tange still is doing those tubes so far today...
- Lugged or not isnt a problem nowadays, whichever will be fine.
- Between 27.5 and 28.5 cms bb hight it will do in both worlds just fine.
- Frame size must be c-t
- Do not add a drill for a rear brake.. the frame it will looks kind'a puaj with that hole there.
- As somebody said, add or sell another fork with the brake drill on it. Somebody would like the bike for racing and a drill in the fork looks kind'a puaj again... (im a classic ex racer ok?)
- DO two models, one for serius track people and other for street people???
- Tubing?.. well any tube Brand will do fine as the frame has the right geometry, but I insist 24 mms rounded chain stays and fork blades is the way to go.
Thanks...
Steel, of course.
I like bikes where the head tube is steeper than he seat, so OK on that.
What's the BB drop for 28cm height?
We always spec S/T center-to-top.
Round chain stays it is.
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Matthew Grimm / Flunky
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Originally Posted by paloewi
Make them big.
60cm c-c should be more readily avaible for track bikes in steel.
thanks!
60cm c-c should be more readily avaible for track bikes in steel.
thanks!
51
53.5
56
59
61.5
c-2-t
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Originally Posted by Surferbruce
and make them small. i'd love to get my wife on a tiny track frame. 48cm or so tt.
Frame, fork, wheels, brakes - $300 - the wheels are Mavic rims and our fixee hubs.
1-952-445-8804
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Originally Posted by Ceya
don't use dropouts/track ends like the above photo.
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Originally Posted by Ceya
yeah they work. have the steel liner for trak ends so paint won't get chip away.
I just rendered them that way to show the raised portion.
They'll just be plain old water-cut, CNC'd detailed, laser engraved 7mm Cro-Mo plate.
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Originally Posted by Kogswell
Our Model M is available in 46 and 50cm. Takes 26" wheels.
Frame, fork, wheels, brakes - $300 - the wheels are Mavic rims and our fixee hubs.
1-952-445-8804
Frame, fork, wheels, brakes - $300 - the wheels are Mavic rims and our fixee hubs.
1-952-445-8804
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Posted on behalf of a friend who isn't registered:
26.8, 27.0 or 27.2 seatpost for ease of finding seatposts.
TRACK GEOMETRY. Road geometry is too slow for me, and I prefer even off the velo.
1"/threaded head tube. I realize that it's perfectly possible to use 1.125 / threadless set-ups on the track, but it's hard to fine-tune those on the fly, and require too many stems/spacers to be practical for me.
Rear brake bridge for those who can only afford one frame and want to run this freewheeling on the road for training.
I second the BIG comment, as I'm tall and need a 61st/57tt minimum. Please don't make "square" bikes like Surly/soma, 60x60, 56x56, or whatever.
Oh, and seconded on the plate'd track ends, my current velo ride is getting screwed up for lack of proper fork end, losing all the paint from wheel changes.
26.8, 27.0 or 27.2 seatpost for ease of finding seatposts.
TRACK GEOMETRY. Road geometry is too slow for me, and I prefer even off the velo.
1"/threaded head tube. I realize that it's perfectly possible to use 1.125 / threadless set-ups on the track, but it's hard to fine-tune those on the fly, and require too many stems/spacers to be practical for me.
Rear brake bridge for those who can only afford one frame and want to run this freewheeling on the road for training.
I second the BIG comment, as I'm tall and need a 61st/57tt minimum. Please don't make "square" bikes like Surly/soma, 60x60, 56x56, or whatever.
Oh, and seconded on the plate'd track ends, my current velo ride is getting screwed up for lack of proper fork end, losing all the paint from wheel changes.
#22
Matthew Grimm / Flunky
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[QUOTE=Interlocutor]Posted on behalf of a friend who isn't registered:
[QUOTE]
26.8, 27.0 or 27.2 seatpost for ease of finding seatposts.
27.2
TRACK GEOMETRY. Road geometry is too slow for me, and I prefer even off the velo.
So far I have 75 head and 74 seat. And I'm waiting for consensus a BB drop dimension.
1"/threaded head tube. I realize that it's perfectly possible to use 1.125 / threadless set-ups on the track, but it's hard to fine-tune those on the fly, and require too many stems/spacers to be practical for me.
What we've done recently is to size the head tube for 9/8" steerers and then ship the 1" forks with alloy reducers. It works well and then everyone is happy.
Rear brake bridge for those who can only afford one frame and want to run this freewheeling on the road for training.
See my notes above.
I second the BIG comment, as I'm tall and need a 61st/57tt minimum. Please don't make "square" bikes like Surly/soma, 60x60, 56x56, or whatever.
See my size list above.
Oh, and seconded on the plate'd track ends, my current velo ride is getting screwed up for lack of proper fork end, losing all the paint from wheel changes.
I will take that under advisement.
[QUOTE]
26.8, 27.0 or 27.2 seatpost for ease of finding seatposts.
27.2
TRACK GEOMETRY. Road geometry is too slow for me, and I prefer even off the velo.
So far I have 75 head and 74 seat. And I'm waiting for consensus a BB drop dimension.
1"/threaded head tube. I realize that it's perfectly possible to use 1.125 / threadless set-ups on the track, but it's hard to fine-tune those on the fly, and require too many stems/spacers to be practical for me.
What we've done recently is to size the head tube for 9/8" steerers and then ship the 1" forks with alloy reducers. It works well and then everyone is happy.
Rear brake bridge for those who can only afford one frame and want to run this freewheeling on the road for training.
See my notes above.
I second the BIG comment, as I'm tall and need a 61st/57tt minimum. Please don't make "square" bikes like Surly/soma, 60x60, 56x56, or whatever.
See my size list above.
Oh, and seconded on the plate'd track ends, my current velo ride is getting screwed up for lack of proper fork end, losing all the paint from wheel changes.
I will take that under advisement.
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27,8 cms BB hight will be fine, or 28 cms to make it even easier. What happend is that we r talking here about an street bike or a track bike?? road BB drop wont work so fine in the track well in a 50 degress velodromo it wont work so fine... the other thought is that we r talking about a frame that can be used averywhere, on the street and maybe like an entry level track racing machine... a lower BB will do the bike not so usable in the track, maybe for KM or persuit but thats it, thats the main reason a 27,5 - 28 cms bb will do fine... i think the best guess is 27.5 just in the middle... (anybody knows why the bb is lower in the persuit and km tt frames, right?)
thanks...
thanks...
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Originally Posted by ultraman6970
27,8 cms BB hight will be fine, or 28 cms to make it even easier. What happend is that we r talking here about an street bike or a track bike?? road BB drop wont work so fine in the track well in a 50 degress velodromo it wont work so fine... the other thought is that we r talking about a frame that can be used averywhere, on the street and maybe like an entry level track racing machine... a lower BB will do the bike not so usable in the track, maybe for KM or persuit but thats it, thats the main reason a 27,5 - 28 cms bb will do fine... i think the best guess is 27.5 just in the middle... (anybody knows why the bb is lower in the persuit and km tt frames, right?)
thanks...
thanks...
I understand that there is no such thing as a 'general purpose' track bike. But I'd like this model to be serious enough to be taken seriously. I'd like it to be different from the other bikes on the market: the Bianchis and Fujis and the rest. If that means round fork blades, steeper angle and a high BB, then fine.
I've got a working model name for it: CheapTrick.
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Hi again...
Well nobody is using round fork blades nor rounded chain stays anymore, thats classic. That will give at the same time the stiffness enough to be different and fast, I tried time ago a KHS bike and was awefull for a track, and make sense because was made having a letter delivery guy in mind.
Diferentiation, the chain stays and the fork blades will do that, the geometry more aggresive will put the frames in the eye of the people who knows about this stuff. The Price???, a nice paint design and some attractive like CheapTrick! hehehe
THanks
Well nobody is using round fork blades nor rounded chain stays anymore, thats classic. That will give at the same time the stiffness enough to be different and fast, I tried time ago a KHS bike and was awefull for a track, and make sense because was made having a letter delivery guy in mind.
Diferentiation, the chain stays and the fork blades will do that, the geometry more aggresive will put the frames in the eye of the people who knows about this stuff. The Price???, a nice paint design and some attractive like CheapTrick! hehehe
THanks