1/8 or 3/32 chain any downsides from one another?
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1/8 or 3/32 chain any downsides from one another?
what is better to run and why? i need a new cog and not sure if i should go 1/8 or stay 3/32 thanks!
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Can't tell you what's "better", you have to decide for yourself.
I can tell you the pros and cons of each. Actually, that would be the differences, you decide if they're pros or cons.
The main reason someone would go full 3/32 drivetrain is weight savings. I say fooey. It isn't that much and weight doesn't make that much difference on the track.
For the chain, some say 3/32 will snap, some say 1/8 is too heavy. I say go with 1/8 because you have more selection of chains to choose from. Real 3/32 track chains are harder to find. That leads some people to use a road chain, not a good idea because they are designed to flex laterally.
Also, with a 1/8 chain, you can use 1/8 or 3/32 rings and cogs. This is very helpful if you need to borrow one from someone.
For cogs, I also go 1/8. It fits the chain. If you have 3/32 cogs, use them. When you buy new ones get 1/8 to go with the chain. They cost the same and like 1/8 chains, their are more to choose from.
Now some people will say "NEVER mix 3/32 cogs and/or rings with 1/8 chain! It makes too much noise." Well if your chain line is good, it will be just fine.
For rings, it depends on your cranks. The standard for track is a crank with a BCD of 144mm. A lot of the entry level bikes come with a 130 BCD crank. Rings can be pretty expensive. If you have 130 BCD, you can get road or BMX rings in 3/32 for much less. This is what I had to do when my daughter started riding track. 1/8 chain, 1/8 cogs and 3/32 rings. The bike ran smooth and quiet. No problems.
So I'd go 1/8 chain so you can run whatever cogs and rings you have, get or borrow.
That's my .03 Hope it helps.
I can tell you the pros and cons of each. Actually, that would be the differences, you decide if they're pros or cons.
The main reason someone would go full 3/32 drivetrain is weight savings. I say fooey. It isn't that much and weight doesn't make that much difference on the track.
For the chain, some say 3/32 will snap, some say 1/8 is too heavy. I say go with 1/8 because you have more selection of chains to choose from. Real 3/32 track chains are harder to find. That leads some people to use a road chain, not a good idea because they are designed to flex laterally.
Also, with a 1/8 chain, you can use 1/8 or 3/32 rings and cogs. This is very helpful if you need to borrow one from someone.
For cogs, I also go 1/8. It fits the chain. If you have 3/32 cogs, use them. When you buy new ones get 1/8 to go with the chain. They cost the same and like 1/8 chains, their are more to choose from.
Now some people will say "NEVER mix 3/32 cogs and/or rings with 1/8 chain! It makes too much noise." Well if your chain line is good, it will be just fine.
For rings, it depends on your cranks. The standard for track is a crank with a BCD of 144mm. A lot of the entry level bikes come with a 130 BCD crank. Rings can be pretty expensive. If you have 130 BCD, you can get road or BMX rings in 3/32 for much less. This is what I had to do when my daughter started riding track. 1/8 chain, 1/8 cogs and 3/32 rings. The bike ran smooth and quiet. No problems.
So I'd go 1/8 chain so you can run whatever cogs and rings you have, get or borrow.
That's my .03 Hope it helps.
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Main reason to go 1/8 is that it's designed to run straight (no lateral deflection). 3/32 chains are made to run with derailleurs, so some sideways flex is built in. This makes the chain too prone to coming off, especially if you're running a fixie on the road, or your chainline is not perfectly dialed in.
Any 1/8 chain will work on the track. You can spend big bucks on a Keirin-approved chain, but the cheap KMC's work just as well, especially if you're just using it on a track bike (no riding in the rain, always riding on a clean surface, especially if it's indoors). I also like the Wipperman track chain.
However, I'm curious to know what others would recommend for all-weather road fixie use. The cheap KMC Z410 starts showing appreciable stretch after only about 1000 km in rainy, gritty Pacific Northwest riding. I've tried the rustless version without much better result. The next step up in KMC chains costs substantially more than the $3.75 I pay at Bike Tools Etc.
L.
Any 1/8 chain will work on the track. You can spend big bucks on a Keirin-approved chain, but the cheap KMC's work just as well, especially if you're just using it on a track bike (no riding in the rain, always riding on a clean surface, especially if it's indoors). I also like the Wipperman track chain.
However, I'm curious to know what others would recommend for all-weather road fixie use. The cheap KMC Z410 starts showing appreciable stretch after only about 1000 km in rainy, gritty Pacific Northwest riding. I've tried the rustless version without much better result. The next step up in KMC chains costs substantially more than the $3.75 I pay at Bike Tools Etc.
L.
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I'm using an Izumi Gold something or another; very nice chain. I love the 1/8 chain.
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Main reason to go 1/8 is that it's designed to run straight (no lateral deflection). 3/32 chains are made to run with derailleurs, so some sideways flex is built in. This makes the chain too prone to coming off, especially if you're running a fixie on the road, or your chainline is not perfectly dialed in.
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I don't think he is saying you will throw a 3/32 chain, but the idea is that a road chain is designed to have some lateral flex to allow for shifting and miss-aligned chainlines, thus it would be theoretically more likely. I personally like running 1/8th because the supply is much higher for cogs/chainrings/track chains. As for how will it flex on the track, Running a slightly more slack chain on the track is pretty common and if your frame flexes at the BB it moves your chainline a bit, thus creating some flex on your chainline.