The post your trailer thread.
#126
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Recycling run with the kids www.flickr.com/photos/25503503@N08/
#128
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The above pictures
1. The dynamo mounted on chassis. Dynamo height and 12inch wheel fit together nicely.
2. The headlight. 1W LED +built-in current regulator, housed in a film canister on a simple swivelling mount. Requires 5v. Has a lens, which as the ebay advert described 'makes the bean throw long.'
3. One of he rear lights. 4 columns of 10mm (large) red LED pairs. Takes 10.4v if I remember correctly. Shockingly bright. Comes on at about 4mph, max brightness at 8mph. Voltage is regulated so no chance of burning out. Dynamo in background.
4. On the underside of the chassis, the dynamo feeds a voltage rectifier/smoother (on the right) and a ~10.4v voltage regulator (on the left).
5. The 10.4 v either drives the rear lights directly or can also be fed into the black box with the red display. This box provides regulated 5v output (for ipod charging via USB jack), can also take in a general voltage source (like the solar panel). Also provides the 5v needed for the headlight. The display is a voltage meter, telling you the input voltage or any voltage you desire (e.g. the voltage of rechargeable batteries that you're charging via the dynamo). I made it sound complicated, it isn't.
6. The innards of the voltage meter/regulator/distributor, reveals that I'm not actually an electronics wizard. The voltage meter was bought on ebay, I just added switches etc. It runs off its own battery, so can be used even when there's no sun, and you aren't cycling.
There's also a 6v dynamo on the other wheel. Why? Who knows?
1. The dynamo mounted on chassis. Dynamo height and 12inch wheel fit together nicely.
2. The headlight. 1W LED +built-in current regulator, housed in a film canister on a simple swivelling mount. Requires 5v. Has a lens, which as the ebay advert described 'makes the bean throw long.'
3. One of he rear lights. 4 columns of 10mm (large) red LED pairs. Takes 10.4v if I remember correctly. Shockingly bright. Comes on at about 4mph, max brightness at 8mph. Voltage is regulated so no chance of burning out. Dynamo in background.
4. On the underside of the chassis, the dynamo feeds a voltage rectifier/smoother (on the right) and a ~10.4v voltage regulator (on the left).
5. The 10.4 v either drives the rear lights directly or can also be fed into the black box with the red display. This box provides regulated 5v output (for ipod charging via USB jack), can also take in a general voltage source (like the solar panel). Also provides the 5v needed for the headlight. The display is a voltage meter, telling you the input voltage or any voltage you desire (e.g. the voltage of rechargeable batteries that you're charging via the dynamo). I made it sound complicated, it isn't.
6. The innards of the voltage meter/regulator/distributor, reveals that I'm not actually an electronics wizard. The voltage meter was bought on ebay, I just added switches etc. It runs off its own battery, so can be used even when there's no sun, and you aren't cycling.
There's also a 6v dynamo on the other wheel. Why? Who knows?
#129
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Recycling run with the kids www.flickr.com/photos/25503503@N08/
#132
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I just completed my first trailer using the Wike DIY kit with an extra set of connectors and upgraded wheels. I built this specifically to do the weekly recycling/trash drop off run, and so far, so good. Didn't have much weight on it for the first trip, but it handled great.
#138
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Her is my trailer built with stuff I had laying around (I bought 2 U-bolts and a package of Eye screws) 3/4 conduit for the tongue, 3/4 plywood flatbed, lawnmower wheels. the axles and tongue are just bolted to the plywood
Roy
Roy
#139
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You have enough room on the tongue for another 6 panniers. A very elegant line. Does the axle run from one wheel all the way to the other? I occasionally see those wheels on trailers and wonder if they're particularly light or strong, or perhaps they're just cheaper than bicycle wheels?
#140
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It has a 1/2" rod from the scap box at work for an axle I used those wheels because they were laying in the garage they are lawnmower wheels no bearings I would use something different if I planned on pulling it on the open road. I built it for running to the store in town I may shorten the tongue when I get my german three speed back together and see how short I can get by with I hauled around #80 four blocks with it with no problem I spent about $8 on parts for it 2 u-bolts ,1 eye-bolt, 10 eye screws everything else I had or scrounged
Roy
Roy
#141
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I go through "Great Plains" (division of Nothern Tool) for the wheels I use on my trailers. 5-spoked poly-wheel tire and tube, Kenda, rated at 180 lbs. per wheel. 1/2" ID sealed bearings. Good stuff.
#142
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another trailer, nearly finished.
Hello all,
My first post to this forum but I've been reading for a while.
Am at the moment finishing building my trailer, the design of which is loosely based on the Y-frame from CarryFreedom. The hitch took the most thinking and effort building, but I think it came out pretty nice. The heim joint (rose joint) seems to be invented just for this kind of job.
peugeot_and_trailer_overview_resized.jpg hitch_finished_resized.jpg
Only thing left to do is install the load bed and add a reflector.
More pictures of the trailer during construction can be found here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/motorcon...BicycleTrailer
Something else that isn't trailer related but might still interest the odd person is an electricity-generating hometrainer I built about two years ago; construction details can be found here, for anyone interested:
https://www.anotherpower.com/gallery/dinges
Peter.
My first post to this forum but I've been reading for a while.
Am at the moment finishing building my trailer, the design of which is loosely based on the Y-frame from CarryFreedom. The hitch took the most thinking and effort building, but I think it came out pretty nice. The heim joint (rose joint) seems to be invented just for this kind of job.
peugeot_and_trailer_overview_resized.jpg hitch_finished_resized.jpg
Only thing left to do is install the load bed and add a reflector.
More pictures of the trailer during construction can be found here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/motorcon...BicycleTrailer
Something else that isn't trailer related but might still interest the odd person is an electricity-generating hometrainer I built about two years ago; construction details can be found here, for anyone interested:
https://www.anotherpower.com/gallery/dinges
Peter.
#145
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https://www.fieldlines.com/story/2005/12/10/163646/91 (for the hometrainer)
And for the other RE projects there are some write-ups here:
https://www.fieldlines.com/user/dinges/diary
https://www.fieldlines.com/user/dinges/stories
If you are asking about the trailer, I'm not sure I have much information (apart from the load calculations and plans with dimensions) that's not yet shown in the image gallery of it.
If you have any specific questions about the trailer or other projects, don't hesitate to ask.
Peter.
#146
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I hadn't realized, but of course lawnmowers would be a readily available source of good wheels.
#147
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I want to ask about the wheels. with this system I expected one wheel would unscrew itsself when in use. I would expect that wheel to maybe stay in place if you put two nuts and locked them together thight. How do you make it work, did you use it enough to find out?
I did something similar, but I am lucky an found some wheelchairs so I could build the hub from those wheels and built them into 20" wheels.
I did something similar, but I am lucky an found some wheelchairs so I could build the hub from those wheels and built them into 20" wheels.
#148
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I did something similar, but I am lucky an found some wheelchairs so I could build the hub from those wheels and built them into 20" wheels.
One worry I do have with the quick release wheels is theft. If it takes just a push of a button to remove the wheels, what's stopping thieves or vandals from getting them. Even plain quick-release skewers on a bike seem to be an invitation of 'take me'. You'd have to lock both wheels to the trailer in case of a wheelchair quick-release, at least over here.
The padlock on the hitch isn't an accident either. One of the designgoals from the start was that the trailer should be lockable to the bike.
Mind you, anyone that really wants the trailer just needs a 13 mm wrench or adjustable wrench to loosen one nut of the Heim joint and he can walk away with it, unless I use a cable lock to lock the trailer to the bikeframe.
Peter.
#150
Senior Member
WOW, I called Nashbar and complained about my Utility Trailer I bough 1 year ago, they traded me for the new improved model, and it is one fine trailer for the $$$.