Tips & tricks thread?
#76
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When there is a hole in my merino wool gloves i use silicone rubber (of the proper color). It fills the hole, last longer than sewing, protect against cold, reinforce the glove and save me a few bucks on new gloves. To do that i put tape on the other side where the hole is then stretch the glove finger on a stick then apply silicone then let it dry.
Last edited by erig007; 05-17-14 at 01:57 PM.
#77
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I like the tips & tricks thread in the touring forum, and I think one would be useful here.
Here's a few tricks that worked for me:
Cold feet:
I moved my panniers from the back of my bike to the front using a low rider rack, so they block a lot of the wind on my feet which helps keep them warm. So far it hasn't affected my stability enough to be a problem.
Here's a few tricks that worked for me:
Cold feet:
I moved my panniers from the back of my bike to the front using a low rider rack, so they block a lot of the wind on my feet which helps keep them warm. So far it hasn't affected my stability enough to be a problem.
Ben
#78
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I used to live in Northern Canada and I enjoyed driving my road bike on top of the snow where the skidoos had pressed it down firm. Also when it is really cold, the ice on the roads would be coated with a sandpaper like frost so by being careful, I drove all winter with my road bike slicks.
First year I put screws in my tires but it was like driving uphill all the time so I got rid of them. Gradually I discovered that as long as you are careful you can drive on whatever you like.
As you mentioned grease does freeze and I found that lower than -25 C (-13 F) the chain wasn't too interested in switching gears. By -35 c (-31 F) switching gears was very difficult. Probably would be a good idea to flush the chain in a solvent or diesel to get the crud off first because that is what makes it stiff in the cold, then lube it with something light like WD40.
First year I put screws in my tires but it was like driving uphill all the time so I got rid of them. Gradually I discovered that as long as you are careful you can drive on whatever you like.
As you mentioned grease does freeze and I found that lower than -25 C (-13 F) the chain wasn't too interested in switching gears. By -35 c (-31 F) switching gears was very difficult. Probably would be a good idea to flush the chain in a solvent or diesel to get the crud off first because that is what makes it stiff in the cold, then lube it with something light like WD40.
And, for comfort: fix gears are far warmer to ride downhill!
Ben
#81
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Check your local big box sporting goods stores and /or ebay. They have a good selection of balaclavas, most with free shipping.
#82
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Keep the inside of your wrists where the veins/arteries are close to the surface, covered and warm. You wil be surprised at how much warmer your hands will be.....
#83
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I wore latex gloves under my regular gloves this morning (temperatures were around 15F). Fingers were a bit chilly at first, but very warm after the 15 minutes of riding.
I had read that the latex gloves would help by blocking wind. In my case, they worked more like a wetsuit. The warm sweat from my hands insulated my fingers perfectly.
Now, if only they made latex socks, I'd be golden.
I had read that the latex gloves would help by blocking wind. In my case, they worked more like a wetsuit. The warm sweat from my hands insulated my fingers perfectly.
Now, if only they made latex socks, I'd be golden.
use the non-latex glove a size slightly larger than snug. That will work much better. Target has a non-latex glove (blue nitrile)... you never know when a proctology exam will break out on a ride.
Or if you have a mechanical, you can work without your gloves.
#85
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Studded tires are...
better on ice
the same on snow
worse on the pavement
Fat studded tires with low pressure work better on ice like refrozen walkways or paths with 3" deep hard ice footprints.
I go straight over them. about 15 psi in the front and 18 -20 in the back. It's slow but fun.
#86
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Fatter knobbier tires work better in snow.
Studded tires are...
better on ice
the same on snow
worse on the pavement
Fat studded tires with low pressure work better on ice like refrozen walkways or paths with 3" deep hard ice footprints.
I go straight over them. about 15 psi in the front and 18 -20 in the back. It's slow but fun.
Studded tires are...
better on ice
the same on snow
worse on the pavement
Fat studded tires with low pressure work better on ice like refrozen walkways or paths with 3" deep hard ice footprints.
I go straight over them. about 15 psi in the front and 18 -20 in the back. It's slow but fun.
#87
Senior Member
#88
Banned
[insert analogy Here] For the Rally of Sweden, run on snow , the WRC competitor cars run Thinner tread tires to slice thru the snow
to the roadway of Gravel, beneath
so Longer spikes than you use on your Car or Bike tires on Pavement..
....
to the roadway of Gravel, beneath
so Longer spikes than you use on your Car or Bike tires on Pavement..
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-05-16 at 12:36 PM.
#89
Senior Member
General opinion? Of what? I run both. 700x35 on a sort of drop bar bike. 26 x 1.95 or a used rockhopper mt bike. 29 x 2.1. On a Surly 1x1. What conditions? Distance? Most of my riding is done on the 700x 35. The 26 sees worst case stuff, frozen footprints, deeper snow. The 29 x 2.1 are really slow, like slow for mostly pavement. My new crush, been looking at the 45 north 700 x 38, would seem to be ideal for the Boston, MA conditions for the bulk of my riding. Freeze thaw, footprints, glare ice and some snow depth.