Winter tires?
#1
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Winter tires?
What about diamond-tread cross tires for winter riding, 30 or 32 mm on a bike with 700C?
#6
Plays in traffic
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
Cross-posted pic from a thread in 50+. This is why even very wide or very aggressive tread is useless in winter riding.
Get some studs.
#7
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From: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
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there are a multitude treads for different conditions in CX, you have mud, sand, gravel, tarmac, etc. and the one that works best in snow is mud.
but none of them are good on ice, or compacted and wet snow.
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
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#8
non-studded tires of any kind are next to worthless on ice. With my Nokian studded tires, I actually pick my line to ride on glare ice as my second choice where there is no bare pavement. I wouldn't want to do 35mph on ice, but feel pretty confident at 20-25mph. I do have 294 (vs 106) studs per tire, so yrmv.
#9
on by

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From: Wisconsin
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20 ATT, Waterford RS-33, Salsa Vaya
non-studded tires of any kind are next to worthless on ice. With my Nokian studded tires, I actually pick my line to ride on glare ice as my second choice where there is no bare pavement. I wouldn't want to do 35mph on ice, but feel pretty confident at 20-25mph. I do have 294 (vs 106) studs per tire, so yrmv.
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#11
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Define your concept of winter riding...it isn't the same for everyone. If you are wanting to ride on icy roads, I'd recommend studded tires, but I've managed to survive (barely) on inverted tread tires too. For snow, studs are not going to help much unless there is an icy base and they can bite into it through the snow, otherwise you'll want something knobby and low pressure (though opinions vary on whether wide or narrow work better). If you are only riding on clear roads, or light snow, the diamond treads might be ok.
Personally, if there is a chance of snow and ice, I'm usually on my bike with the studded tires, but my regular commuter with the Top Contacts get plenty of clear, dry day mileage in the winter too.
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"Let us hope our weapons are never needed --but do not forget what the common people knew when they demanded the Bill of Rights: An armed citizenry is the first defense, the best defense, and the final defense against tyranny. If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns. Only the police, the secret police, the military, the hired servants of our rulers. Only the government -- and a few outlaws. I intend to be among the outlaws" - Edward Abbey
#12
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From: Northeast PA
Bikes: 10' SuperiorLite SL Club | 06' Giant FCR3 | 2010 GT Avalanche 3.0 Disc
Schwallabe Winter studded apparently get as low as 35, maybe as low as 32. They are supposed to be the gift from the gods, just from reputation.
#14
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
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you knew you were gonna get a 'studs or nothing' fest, right? 
Define your concept of winter riding...it isn't the same for everyone. If you are wanting to ride on icy roads, I'd recommend studded tires, but I've managed to survive (barely) on inverted tread tires too. For snow, studs are not going to help much unless there is an icy base and they can bite into it through the snow, otherwise you'll want something knobby and low pressure (though opinions vary on whether wide or narrow work better). If you are only riding on clear roads, or light snow, the diamond treads might be ok.
Personally, if there is a chance of snow and ice, I'm usually on my bike with the studded tires, but my regular commuter with the Top Contacts get plenty of clear, dry day mileage in the winter too.

Define your concept of winter riding...it isn't the same for everyone. If you are wanting to ride on icy roads, I'd recommend studded tires, but I've managed to survive (barely) on inverted tread tires too. For snow, studs are not going to help much unless there is an icy base and they can bite into it through the snow, otherwise you'll want something knobby and low pressure (though opinions vary on whether wide or narrow work better). If you are only riding on clear roads, or light snow, the diamond treads might be ok.
Personally, if there is a chance of snow and ice, I'm usually on my bike with the studded tires, but my regular commuter with the Top Contacts get plenty of clear, dry day mileage in the winter too.
But unless I want to deal with changing tires back and forth, sounds like I should add some studliness to my fredliness.
Re width, my frames can take bigger widths, I just don't have any wheels set up with wider rims at this point. I have caliper brakes, so a super-wide tire needs to be deflated for removal, or a brake shoe removed.
Ghettocruiser, I recall commuting through a winter or two (Chicago, not much hill) on a Suzuki 550, but I've gotten way wimpier in these several decades since. Somehow I survived - used some kind of Continental or other, but a standard road and highway tire.
#15
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Chipper, (maybe I should call you "Chippy" after some of those cross-gendered avatars ...), that is exactly the point. Studs needed on ice, I can figure that out. Ann Arbor's probably a little colder than the south of Toledo, so ice happens but is not that common. What is common is all our little hills becoming slick because of spinning car tires, but I can usually take to the sidewalks in those cases. Plus most of my expected commuting can be done on sidestreets where tire ruts in snow are pretty likely - I don't see studs helping with that at all.
But unless I want to deal with changing tires back and forth, sounds like I should add some studliness to my fredliness.
Re width, my frames can take bigger widths, I just don't have any wheels set up with wider rims at this point. I have caliper brakes, so a super-wide tire needs to be deflated for removal, or a brake shoe removed.
But unless I want to deal with changing tires back and forth, sounds like I should add some studliness to my fredliness.
Re width, my frames can take bigger widths, I just don't have any wheels set up with wider rims at this point. I have caliper brakes, so a super-wide tire needs to be deflated for removal, or a brake shoe removed.
I went lots of years without studs with minimal ill effects...but now that I have studs I think my guardian angel must have been putting in some serious overtime back then.
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"Let us hope our weapons are never needed --but do not forget what the common people knew when they demanded the Bill of Rights: An armed citizenry is the first defense, the best defense, and the final defense against tyranny. If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns. Only the police, the secret police, the military, the hired servants of our rulers. Only the government -- and a few outlaws. I intend to be among the outlaws" - Edward Abbey
"Let us hope our weapons are never needed --but do not forget what the common people knew when they demanded the Bill of Rights: An armed citizenry is the first defense, the best defense, and the final defense against tyranny. If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns. Only the police, the secret police, the military, the hired servants of our rulers. Only the government -- and a few outlaws. I intend to be among the outlaws" - Edward Abbey
#16
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From: Grid Reference, SK
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For riding through slush or light snow where there is little or no chance of ice or hardpacked snow underneath, narrow knobbies are great. I find narrow knobbies on heavily salted slushy roads to be able to cut through the slush and contact the bare pavement underneath. I have always had trouble with fatter tires (from 700 X 38s up to 26 X 2.2) because they seem to float and have nothing solid to grab onto.
If there is greater than 0.01% chance of ice or hardpacked snow then studs are best, any width. For riding in a city, narrower is probably better.
If there is greater than 0.01% chance of ice or hardpacked snow then studs are best, any width. For riding in a city, narrower is probably better.
#17
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From: IN - Indianapolis
Does anyone have a recommendation for a specific CX tire (32 or 35) that would work well for making my own studded tire (per the various instructions found on the sticky thread in this forum)? I'm in the process of setting up a Redline Conquest Pro as my commuter and don't yet have my fenders in hand yet, but am planning on running SKS P45s which allow for a 35 max width tire.
I'm just a bit too cheap (at this point) to invest in manufactured studded tires, but would like to run one on the front this winter to try out the concept...
I'm just a bit too cheap (at this point) to invest in manufactured studded tires, but would like to run one on the front this winter to try out the concept...
#18
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Does anyone have a recommendation for a specific CX tire (32 or 35) that would work well for making my own studded tire (per the various instructions found on the sticky thread in this forum)? I'm in the process of setting up a Redline Conquest Pro as my commuter and don't yet have my fenders in hand yet, but am planning on running SKS P45s which allow for a 35 max width tire.
I'm just a bit too cheap (at this point) to invest in manufactured studded tires, but would like to run one on the front this winter to try out the concept...
I'm just a bit too cheap (at this point) to invest in manufactured studded tires, but would like to run one on the front this winter to try out the concept...
If you can fit a 35c, they sell the Nokian w106's here (a very good manufactured winter tire with carbide studs) for $50. (Correction - the Peter White site sells them for $44, though that may be before shipping, so it might come out to $50). The 32c A10's are slightly less expensive at $38. Nokian tires have a reputation for lasting 2-3 seasons of constant, daily use. If you don't already own an old tire you're going to stud yourself, it seems like the cost savings of making your own would be minimal - particularly if you're only doing one.
Last edited by PaulRivers; 12-22-09 at 01:46 AM.
#19
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From: IN - Indianapolis

Your thought process mirrors mine. Fenders will be the priority upgrade - I need to get the fenders first and get them installed with the 32s I'm currently running to check clearance and then go from there.
I'm in Indy and doubt I'll have much of a need for studs, but am intrigued and would like to try them for fun. Figured I might be able to pickup a $20 CX tire that would be a good candidate for the homemade version, throw it on the front rim and try it out sometime...but your point is taken that I'll have 75% of the cost of a Nokian plus my time wrapped up in making one - IF it will even fit with my fenders installed.
#20
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From: eldridge iowa
Bikes: lynskey cross 29 er teesdale custom snow bike
my sloution
Paul - no snarkiness taken. 
Your thought process mirrors mine. Fenders will be the priority upgrade - I need to get the fenders first and get them installed with the 32s I'm currently running to check clearance and then go from there.
I'm in Indy and doubt I'll have much of a need for studs, but am intrigued and would like to try them for fun. Figured I might be able to pickup a $20 CX tire that would be a good candidate for the homemade version, throw it on the front rim and try it out sometime...but your point is taken that I'll have 75% of the cost of a Nokian plus my time wrapped up in making one - IF it will even fit with my fenders installed.

Your thought process mirrors mine. Fenders will be the priority upgrade - I need to get the fenders first and get them installed with the 32s I'm currently running to check clearance and then go from there.
I'm in Indy and doubt I'll have much of a need for studs, but am intrigued and would like to try them for fun. Figured I might be able to pickup a $20 CX tire that would be a good candidate for the homemade version, throw it on the front rim and try it out sometime...but your point is taken that I'll have 75% of the cost of a Nokian plus my time wrapped up in making one - IF it will even fit with my fenders installed.
#21
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From: Buffalo NY
Bikes: Gerry Fisher Nirvana, LeMond Buenos Aires
We get relatively little icy conditions here in Buffalo NY. We tend to either get rain, or snow, but rarely the nasty stuff inbetween. That said, there are plenty of sections on my commute (especially side roads and parking lots I have to cross) that get iced up during the night. Commuters will melt the snow with their cars coming home at night, but then everything re-freezes over night... very slick condiutions, but no problem with the Nokias. The main roads tend to have more salt on them, they go from snowy to completely dry in as little as a few hours.
I don't love how much more effort snow tires take to move, but not going down hard is worth the extra security. I can ride easily on days that I can't even walk because it is so slick.
Happy riding,
André
#23
Does anyone have a recommendation for a specific CX tire (32 or 35) that would work well for making my own studded tire (per the various instructions found on the sticky thread in this forum)? I'm in the process of setting up a Redline Conquest Pro as my commuter and don't yet have my fenders in hand yet, but am planning on running SKS P45s which allow for a 35 max width tire.
I'm just a bit too cheap (at this point) to invest in manufactured studded tires, but would like to run one on the front this winter to try out the concept...
I'm just a bit too cheap (at this point) to invest in manufactured studded tires, but would like to run one on the front this winter to try out the concept...
Personally, I would only go this route if there were no other options. For $44 a tire and considering what these buy you...
#25
surly old man

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From: Carlisle, PA
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
Attachment 129893 this is how I get around on icy gravel and snow mobile trails.1/4 inch hex head screws into tubeless surly tire
I am impressed. I would not have had the guts to drill holes in tires that expensive.
You must have the legs of a mule.
jim
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Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
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