Racer Tech Thread
#3077
Senior Member
my prevail helmet is dying. the ratchet/plastic fit system is broken and getting worse.
which modern helmet allows you to securely stick sunglasses in it? this is a non-race helmet and I take my glasses off whenever I'm doing extended climbs to avoid sweat pooling.
I'm not above buying new glasses and new helmet after striking out on this years specialized helmets
which modern helmet allows you to securely stick sunglasses in it? this is a non-race helmet and I take my glasses off whenever I'm doing extended climbs to avoid sweat pooling.
I'm not above buying new glasses and new helmet after striking out on this years specialized helmets
specific sunglass dock and super light
I'm all for breaking out of the same old. Try something new
#3078
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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I ordered the replacement part for the specialized helmet - but I hate POC so much ...
#3081
OMC
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My Garmin 500 is apparently in its last throes, pushing buttons is now considered a suggestion. I ordered a 520 yesterday and will send the 500 in to Garmin and get a refurb replacement for use on my commuter. No real complaints since the 500 is over four years old and survived two crashs and a few bounces off concrete.
__________________
Regards,
Chuck
Demain, on roule!
Regards,
Chuck
Demain, on roule!
#3082
Ninny
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Looks like the k-edge garmin mount (which is ridiculously expensive and I've never actually seen one).
[edit] from https://ritcheylogic.com/road/bars/wc...olostreem.html : "integrated mount ready for K-Edge or similar devices."
[edit] looks like k-edge has a family of mounts for various types and combinations of computers and cameras, so it's that, not Garmin-specific.
Last edited by globecanvas; 01-20-16 at 07:21 AM.
#3083
Senior Member
#3084
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I would avoid the MIPS version though. I bought it thinking, "$10 bucks more for additional protection, sure why not," but I find it horribly uncomfortable. There's not enough padding covering all the MIPS connection points, resulting in hard plastic spots sitting on my head.
#3085
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Anyone riding the new Caad12 frameset? I've been riding the same carbon bike the last couple 3 years and i'm thinking of making the switch back over to alu. I've read some reviews of it not being as snappy up the hills which is the only thing I'm hesitating about since I want to target some hilly RRs (as well as the internal cabling but I'll deal). Otherwise I've heard only good things about it (and the CAAD frames in general).
#3087
Nonsense
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I've owned a caad7 (optimo and TT frames), 8, and 9. While I have not ridden the caad 12, Cannondale makes fantastic aluminum framesets. I would assume this carries over to the 12.
#3088
Senior Member
In ~1 month I will be. Which is of no help to the question asked. And its also very flat here so even if I did have it right now this is still a pointless post.
#3090
Senior Member
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I had a pressfit-86 frame BB warrantied and have to move over all the parts to the new frame. The BB is practically new. Is it straightforward to move the BB (incl. the pressfit cups - are the cups reusable?) to the new frame? I see that this requires some special tools (to do it neatly at least) which I'm not sure my LBS will have. I would like to move the BB over and avoid buy a new one if it's easily doable.
Also, when the bearings eventually die, does the whole BB need to be replaced or just the bearings (if that's even possible or do the bearings and the cups form a single unit)?
Also, when the bearings eventually die, does the whole BB need to be replaced or just the bearings (if that's even possible or do the bearings and the cups form a single unit)?
#3092
Senior Member
I had a pressfit-86 frame BB warrantied and have to move over all the parts to the new frame. The BB is practically new. Is it straightforward to move the BB (incl. the pressfit cups - are the cups reusable?) to the new frame? I see that this requires some special tools (to do it neatly at least) which I'm not sure my LBS will have. I would like to move the BB over and avoid buy a new one if it's easily doable.
Also, when the bearings eventually die, does the whole BB need to be replaced or just the bearings (if that's even possible or do the bearings and the cups form a single unit)?
Also, when the bearings eventually die, does the whole BB need to be replaced or just the bearings (if that's even possible or do the bearings and the cups form a single unit)?
#3093
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I had a pressfit-86 frame BB warrantied and have to move over all the parts to the new frame. The BB is practically new. Is it straightforward to move the BB (incl. the pressfit cups - are the cups reusable?) to the new frame? I see that this requires some special tools (to do it neatly at least) which I'm not sure my LBS will have. I would like to move the BB over and avoid buy a new one if it's easily doable.
Also, when the bearings eventually die, does the whole BB need to be replaced or just the bearings (if that's even possible or do the bearings and the cups form a single unit)?
Also, when the bearings eventually die, does the whole BB need to be replaced or just the bearings (if that's even possible or do the bearings and the cups form a single unit)?
it's not hard, it just requires some gentle handling. many people remove these cups by banging on the bearings which will, of course, destroy the bearings. it's the easiest way.
i'd at least try to salvage the bearings/cups. try to remove them yourself. you'll be able to tell if they're ruined. feel the quality of how they rotate before you remove them, then after. you'll know if you did it right.
what's the worst that could happen?
#3094
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Ordered a new BB for the new frame. If I successfully manage to extract the BB out of the old frame, it'll be there for use in the future. Thanks, guys.
#3096
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Never ended up getting it! By the time I decided to get it they ran out of stock in my size. Got a Canyon Aeroad instead. I barely rode (3-4 rides) it when I noticed the crack in frame. Can't wait to get it built up!
#3097
Senior Member
i've successfully removed/reinstalled cups with bearings pressed in, but there are no guarantees and shops will tell you (CYA) that it can't be done--or at least not done with certainty. there's some truth to this.
it's not hard, it just requires some gentle handling. many people remove these cups by banging on the bearings which will, of course, destroy the bearings. it's the easiest way.
i'd at least try to salvage the bearings/cups. try to remove them yourself. you'll be able to tell if they're ruined. feel the quality of how they rotate before you remove them, then after. you'll know if you did it right.
what's the worst that could happen?
it's not hard, it just requires some gentle handling. many people remove these cups by banging on the bearings which will, of course, destroy the bearings. it's the easiest way.
i'd at least try to salvage the bearings/cups. try to remove them yourself. you'll be able to tell if they're ruined. feel the quality of how they rotate before you remove them, then after. you'll know if you did it right.
what's the worst that could happen?
#3098
Senior Member
And regardless of what anyone says about him, @topflightpro is the schnizzle. Thanks also.
__________________
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
#3099
Senior Member
I went to solder a new battery into my SRM spider. I just touched the old solder, the connection broke, touched it again with the new battery in place, connection was strong. Tested (circuitboard to screw, so I'm testing beyond the solder points). 3.6v for a 3.5v rated battery, 3.2v is so dead it didn't register, and all my dead batteries are 3.1-3.2v.
It took maybe 5 seconds to install, 3 seconds to remove? I rounded up and said 15 seconds in Facebook because 5 seconds seemed too good to be true. I have a second spider to solder so I can see if I can repeat it. Unfortunately I have no batteries left, I have gone through 4 replacement batteries so far, new ones on the way.
Also, is there a way to delete ride data without deleting the overall settings? (*edit, I got the SRM machine back and cleared ride data) Key is I want to do this without using the download cable, since I have no computer that is working that runs SRM software. If not I'll just do some manual stuff (install old cyclometer, etc) until I get my laptop back.
It took maybe 5 seconds to install, 3 seconds to remove? I rounded up and said 15 seconds in Facebook because 5 seconds seemed too good to be true. I have a second spider to solder so I can see if I can repeat it. Unfortunately I have no batteries left, I have gone through 4 replacement batteries so far, new ones on the way.
Also, is there a way to delete ride data without deleting the overall settings? (*edit, I got the SRM machine back and cleared ride data) Key is I want to do this without using the download cable, since I have no computer that is working that runs SRM software. If not I'll just do some manual stuff (install old cyclometer, etc) until I get my laptop back.
__________________
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
Last edited by carpediemracing; 02-06-16 at 08:20 PM.
#3100
meow
Join Date: Jan 2008
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I have a HEADSET question. I think the only key facts are that the steerer (1 1/8 top, 1 1/4 bottom) is CARBON and it's an INTEGRATED setup; however, in case it matters, I have a 2013 Cannondale Supersix Evo Hi Mod Di2.
In addition, the main reason that I have this question is because it is my understanding that one of the key functions of the EXPANDER PLUG that goes inside the steerer is to keep the stem, when tightened, from crushing/compromising the steerer.
THE QUESTION: is there an integrated headset for this steerer such that I can have some flexibility with number of spacers between the stem and topcap, and not be concerned about compromising the integrity of the steerer? I'd like the flexibility of being able to lower or raise a little the stem over time. What headsets are people using for like circumstances? If you don't worry about the stem aligning with the expander plug, I'd be curious to hear that too.
I've used Cannondale's IS headset to date, and the directions/manual state clearly -- and Cdale has said directly to me -- that no spacers are to be between the topcap and the stem. So, I'd like to use a different headset if I can so I have some flexibility with respect to stem height in the future.
Thank you.
In addition, the main reason that I have this question is because it is my understanding that one of the key functions of the EXPANDER PLUG that goes inside the steerer is to keep the stem, when tightened, from crushing/compromising the steerer.
THE QUESTION: is there an integrated headset for this steerer such that I can have some flexibility with number of spacers between the stem and topcap, and not be concerned about compromising the integrity of the steerer? I'd like the flexibility of being able to lower or raise a little the stem over time. What headsets are people using for like circumstances? If you don't worry about the stem aligning with the expander plug, I'd be curious to hear that too.
I've used Cannondale's IS headset to date, and the directions/manual state clearly -- and Cdale has said directly to me -- that no spacers are to be between the topcap and the stem. So, I'd like to use a different headset if I can so I have some flexibility with respect to stem height in the future.
Thank you.