I mean how/where the glasses fit securely on it, sorry

POC
specific sunglass dock and super light

I'm all for breaking out of the same old. Try something new

I ordered the replacement part for the specialized helmet - but I hate POC so much ...

lol, it's a polarizing design.
Seems like a lot of companies are upping their game whenever you decide to change it up

Anyone know the Garmin mount that uses these bolts?

My Garmin 500 is apparently in its last throes, pushing buttons is now considered a suggestion. I ordered a 520 yesterday and will send the 500 in to Garmin and get a refurb replacement for use on my commuter. No real complaints since the 500 is over four years old and survived two crashs and a few bounces off concrete.

Looks like the k-edge garmin mount (which is ridiculously expensive and I've never actually seen one).



[edit] from https://ritcheylogic.com/road/bars/wc...olostreem.html : "integrated mount ready for K-Edge or similar devices."

[edit] looks like k-edge has a family of mounts for various types and combinations of computers and cameras, so it's that, not Garmin-specific.

you have to check if Raceware or Rec-mounts.com makes one for those bars.

I would avoid the MIPS version though. I bought it thinking, "$10 bucks more for additional protection, sure why not," but I find it horribly uncomfortable. There's not enough padding covering all the MIPS connection points, resulting in hard plastic spots sitting on my head.

Anyone riding the new Caad12 frameset? I've been riding the same carbon bike the last couple 3 years and i'm thinking of making the switch back over to alu. I've read some reviews of it not being as snappy up the hills which is the only thing I'm hesitating about since I want to target some hilly RRs (as well as the internal cabling but I'll deal). Otherwise I've heard only good things about it (and the CAAD frames in general).

rode with someone who had it a few weeks ago. seemed very happy.

I've owned a caad7 (optimo and TT frames), 8, and 9. While I have not ridden the caad 12, Cannondale makes fantastic aluminum framesets. I would assume this carries over to the 12.

In ~1 month I will be. Which is of no help to the question asked. And its also very flat here so even if I did have it right now this is still a pointless post.

yaaaas ordered 11s ultegra. no more fighting with my haggard rear derailleur.

I had a pressfit-86 frame BB warrantied and have to move over all the parts to the new frame. The BB is practically new. Is it straightforward to move the BB (incl. the pressfit cups - are the cups reusable?) to the new frame? I see that this requires some special tools (to do it neatly at least) which I'm not sure my LBS will have. I would like to move the BB over and avoid buy a new one if it's easily doable.

Also, when the bearings eventually die, does the whole BB need to be replaced or just the bearings (if that's even possible or do the bearings and the cups form a single unit)?

If it's BB86 to BB86, let the shop do it.

i think (totally could be wrong) that the bearings are part of the sups. furthermore, i would be surprised if a show is able to remove them from one frame and install them in other. I'd be inclined to think removing them from one frame would render the bearings unusable.

i've successfully removed/reinstalled cups with bearings pressed in, but there are no guarantees and shops will tell you (CYA) that it can't be done--or at least not done with certainty. there's some truth to this.

it's not hard, it just requires some gentle handling. many people remove these cups by banging on the bearings which will, of course, destroy the bearings. it's the easiest way.

i'd at least try to salvage the bearings/cups. try to remove them yourself. you'll be able to tell if they're ruined. feel the quality of how they rotate before you remove them, then after. you'll know if you did it right.

what's the worst that could happen?

Ordered a new BB for the new frame. If I successfully manage to extract the BB out of the old frame, it'll be there for use in the future. Thanks, guys.

Didn't you have an Argon? What happened to get the warranty replacement?

Never ended up getting it! By the time I decided to get it they ran out of stock in my size. Got a Canyon Aeroad instead. I barely rode (3-4 rides) it when I noticed the crack in frame. Can't wait to get it built up!

yep.. I've successfully reused my Parlee bearing and cups after I broke my THM cranks and had to go back to DA.

I just got it forwarded to me. Thanks.

And regardless of what anyone says about him, [MENTION=92828]topflightpro[/MENTION] is the schnizzle. Thanks also.

I went to solder a new battery into my SRM spider. I just touched the old solder, the connection broke, touched it again with the new battery in place, connection was strong. Tested (circuitboard to screw, so I'm testing beyond the solder points). 3.6v for a 3.5v rated battery, 3.2v is so dead it didn't register, and all my dead batteries are 3.1-3.2v.

It took maybe 5 seconds to install, 3 seconds to remove? I rounded up and said 15 seconds in Facebook because 5 seconds seemed too good to be true. I have a second spider to solder so I can see if I can repeat it. Unfortunately I have no batteries left, I have gone through 4 replacement batteries so far, new ones on the way.

Also, is there a way to delete ride data without deleting the overall settings? (*edit, I got the SRM machine back and cleared ride data) Key is I want to do this without using the download cable, since I have no computer that is working that runs SRM software. If not I'll just do some manual stuff (install old cyclometer, etc) until I get my laptop back.

I have a HEADSET question. I think the only key facts are that the steerer (1 1/8 top, 1 1/4 bottom) is CARBON and it's an INTEGRATED setup; however, in case it matters, I have a 2013 Cannondale Supersix Evo Hi Mod Di2.

In addition, the main reason that I have this question is because it is my understanding that one of the key functions of the EXPANDER PLUG that goes inside the steerer is to keep the stem, when tightened, from crushing/compromising the steerer.

THE QUESTION: is there an integrated headset for this steerer such that I can have some flexibility with number of spacers between the stem and topcap, and not be concerned about compromising the integrity of the steerer? I'd like the flexibility of being able to lower or raise a little the stem over time. What headsets are people using for like circumstances? If you don't worry about the stem aligning with the expander plug, I'd be curious to hear that too.

I've used Cannondale's IS headset to date, and the directions/manual state clearly -- and Cdale has said directly to me -- that no spacers are to be between the topcap and the stem. So, I'd like to use a different headset if I can so I have some flexibility with respect to stem height in the future.

Thank you.