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How to adjust brake lever travel with STI?

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How to adjust brake lever travel with STI?

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Old 12-29-09, 09:31 PM
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How to adjust brake lever travel with STI?

My bike's brake although seem to grip, the lever pressed towards the drops already. Can you help a noobie road bike on how the adjust the brake tension? It uses the STI system.

thanks!
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Old 12-29-09, 09:33 PM
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adjust it at the actual brake, not the STI lever.
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Old 12-29-09, 09:40 PM
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Turn out the cable stop (knurled knob) at the caliper (brake)
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Old 12-29-09, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by roadfix
Turn out the cable stop (knurled knob) at the caliper (brake)
OK the brake I have is something like this.



Do you mean the top chrome part?
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Old 12-29-09, 11:25 PM
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Yes, the top chrome part. Turn it counter-clockwise (looking at it from the top, then turn the lower ring clockwise to snug it up.
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Old 12-30-09, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by wunderkind
Do you mean the top chrome part?
If it's already screwed out you'll have to tighten the cable where it's clamped. Basically undo the nut, pull a cm or so of cable through and do the nut up again.
The brake in the pic seems to have a q/r for easier wheel removal, make sure you're familiar with how that works before trying anything.
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Old 12-30-09, 07:22 AM
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Don't over do it.

If your brake lever is bottoming, or nearly bottoming against the handlebar you will need to adjust the cable length as the other posters have indicated.

If you make it too tight, however, you won't be able to open your brake pads far enough to easily remove and replace your wheel.
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Old 12-30-09, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch

If you make it too tight, however, you won't be able to open your brake pads far enough to easily remove and replace your wheel.
That's irrelevant. Having the QR open to clear the tyre doesn't mean anything about proper lever travel for brake actuation.
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Old 12-30-09, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by operator
That's irrelevant. Having the QR open to clear the tyre doesn't mean anything about proper lever travel for brake actuation.
OK, so I think I got it adjusted properly. What I did...

- Loosen the cable stop.
- Hold down the caliper to be closer to the rim
- pull the cable tout
- retighten the cable stop nut

Now the brake lever travels about 1/4 of the way and the caliper snaps to the rim.

Let me know if what I did was correct. This is new to me as my previous bike had disc brakes.
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Old 12-30-09, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by wunderkind
OK, so I think I got it adjusted properly. What I did...

- Loosen the cable stop.
- Hold down the caliper to be closer to the rim
- pull the cable tout
- retighten the cable stop nut

Now the brake lever travels about 1/4 of the way and the caliper snaps to the rim.

Let me know if what I did was correct. This is new to me as my previous bike had disc brakes.
That should work provided that you can remove the wheel with the quick release loose.
There should be a barrel adjuster where the cable meets the caliper.
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Old 12-30-09, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by wunderkind
OK, so I think I got it adjusted properly. What I did...

- Loosen the cable stop.
- Hold down the caliper to be closer to the rim
- pull the cable tout
- retighten the cable stop nut

Now the brake lever travels about 1/4 of the way and the caliper snaps to the rim.

Let me know if what I did was correct. This is new to me as my previous bike had disc brakes.
That's correct.

By the way. You'll want the lever to bottom out just before it hits the bar and then a bit. The closer your hand is to fully closed the more modulation you have e.g very tight brakes = not as much control.
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Old 12-30-09, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by operator
That's correct.

By the way. You'll want the lever to bottom out just before it hits the bar and then a bit. The closer your hand is to fully closed the more modulation you have e.g very tight brakes = not as much control.
Hmm... you got a point there. I guess I'll adjust with it as time goes by. thanks!
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Old 12-30-09, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by operator
That's irrelevant. Having the QR open to clear the tyre doesn't mean anything about proper lever travel for brake actuation.
Incorrect.
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Old 12-30-09, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Incorrect.
Yeah, how so?

So for a tire that will not clear a brake even with the QR open, you suggest loosening the brake so that the adjustment is loose?

Give me a freakin break. Proper lever travel adjustment has nothing to do, and should not have anything to do with the tyre clearing the brake when the QR is open. Not sure how you can even being to refute this.
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Old 12-30-09, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by operator
Yeah, how so?

So for a tire that will not clear a brake even with the QR open, you suggest loosening the brake so that the adjustment is loose?

Give me a freakin break. Proper lever travel adjustment has nothing to do, and should not have anything to do with the tyre clearing the brake when the QR is open. Not sure how you can even being to refute this.
Try, if you can, to read my initial post with an open mind.

All I was saying is that, if you adjust your brake pads too close to the rim, even opening the quick release won't be enough to clear the tire. That, sir, is an obvious fact.

By the way, might your last sentence make sense in French?
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Old 12-31-09, 02:32 PM
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Also remember that as the pads wear the brake requires more travel at the lever. Are you sure your pads don't need replacing?
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Old 12-31-09, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by operator
That's correct.

By the way. You'll want the lever to bottom out just before it hits the bar and then a bit. The closer your hand is to fully closed the more modulation you have e.g very tight brakes = not as much control.
That's right. A lot of people think they get better braking and faster actuation by having the pads as close to the rim as possible so they grab as soon as you pull the lever. But your hand doesn't have as much leverage that way and you may have to squeeze very hard to get decent braking power. The hand can apply a lot more force when it's more closed and having the brakes set so that you lock up the wheels just before the lever bottoms against bars will give you the most braking-power and modulation control.
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