Noob Needs Help with sticky out bits on handle bars!!!!!
#1
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Newbie
Joined: Dec 2009
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Noob Needs Help with sticky out bits on handle bars!!!!!
I've only been cycling since I got my first road bike in May so please excuse my lack of technical terminology and I apologise in advance for what will seem like a silly question.
One of the two bits that stick out of the handle bars and to which the brake levers are attached has angled itself inwards. I've been scouring the internet for a remedy but I do not know the official term used for the 'sticky out bits'!
If anyone reading this knows the official terminology for the sticky out bits or even better can offer a brief description of how to adjust them I would be most grateful.
One of the two bits that stick out of the handle bars and to which the brake levers are attached has angled itself inwards. I've been scouring the internet for a remedy but I do not know the official term used for the 'sticky out bits'!
If anyone reading this knows the official terminology for the sticky out bits or even better can offer a brief description of how to adjust them I would be most grateful.
#4
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
How old is the bike? Are the shifters and brake levers combined?
On older road bikes with separate brake levers, if you pull the brake lever and use a flashlight to peer inside, you'll see a screw or bolt that tightens the brake lever to the handlebar.
Bikes with shifters and brake levers combined usually take a 5 mm allen wrench in a groove on the outside of the brake lever. You may need to pull down the rubber hood to see the groove.
In either case, don't overtighten it. The brakes should stay put under normal use but have enough "give" to let them pivot out of the way, rather than break, if you crash.
On older road bikes with separate brake levers, if you pull the brake lever and use a flashlight to peer inside, you'll see a screw or bolt that tightens the brake lever to the handlebar.
Bikes with shifters and brake levers combined usually take a 5 mm allen wrench in a groove on the outside of the brake lever. You may need to pull down the rubber hood to see the groove.
In either case, don't overtighten it. The brakes should stay put under normal use but have enough "give" to let them pivot out of the way, rather than break, if you crash.
#5
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 47
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Right, I made an assumption from "angled itself inwards".
Assuming you have road levers, there is typically a hex screw accessible from the side of the lever, or in some cases inside the lever assembly (when lever is pulled down).
Again, pics would be best.
Assuming you have road levers, there is typically a hex screw accessible from the side of the lever, or in some cases inside the lever assembly (when lever is pulled down).
Again, pics would be best.
#6
Chasing the horizon.
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 500
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Bikes: 2016 Felt F75, 2008 Mercier Corvus Steel, 2006 Trek 4300, 1985 Trek 620 (modernized)
If the bike is a modern bike, check the outsides of the lever for a small groove into which an allen wrench can slide. The groove will quickly disappear under the rubber of the hood. Tightening or loosening the nut at the end of that groove will tighten or loosen the clamp that secures it to the handlebars. Loosening it will allow you to pivot the hood back to straight.
If the bike is an older bike, the clamp nut is probably inside the lever hood. These can be a pain in the butt, as some of the old clamps used a flathead screw directly behind the brake cable. To loosen the screw without completely removing the cable, look for a tension release on the cable or brake calipers by the wheel. That will allow you to slide the screwdriver past the brake cable inside the lever a bit easier, but it's still a pain without removing the cable entirely.
In either case, remember to re-tighten the brake lever in place.
If the bike is an older bike, the clamp nut is probably inside the lever hood. These can be a pain in the butt, as some of the old clamps used a flathead screw directly behind the brake cable. To loosen the screw without completely removing the cable, look for a tension release on the cable or brake calipers by the wheel. That will allow you to slide the screwdriver past the brake cable inside the lever a bit easier, but it's still a pain without removing the cable entirely.
In either case, remember to re-tighten the brake lever in place.
#7
Elitist Troglodyte
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,926
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From: Dallas
Bikes: 03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
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