luv_to_cycle

Hi,

I am riding an old bike...Not sure exactly how old but it is old. It has an early cassette. Not the modern style. It is a six speed cassette. The top 5 gears are 1 unit then the last cog threads on to hold it in place. It is an 11-24. The teeth are still in good shape...But I am just getting back in to riding again after a 10 year hiatus. I can not push these up the hills where I live now.

Any one have an idea what I call this thing so I can try to see if I can find a replacement?

Thanks for any advice,

Shawn

himespau 

freewheel, specifically a 6 speed freewheel.

Edit: I'm an idiot, read the words 6 speeds and zoned out with respect to the rest.

luv_to_cycle

Hi..I ordered a freewheel thinking that's what it was...However it turns out not to be a freewheel. I am new so forgive any ignorance I may have. But the freewheel just threads on. What I have only the last cog threads on and the other five cogs are one unit that just slides on over the hub. I probably should have taken a picture. I was hoping it was a freewheel since they seem to be easy to still find.

zebede

Does the hub have the mfgs name on it or other markings? Is it a Mallard Helomatic?

canam73

It sounds like the Shimano Uniglide system (pre-curser to modern cassettes) where the last cog acted as the lock ring. I have only seen 7 speed versions, but I don't know that they didn't make six speed. Or perhaps Suntour or Campy had a version?

Anyway, if it is Uniglide, the bad new is that Uniglide cassettes are getting hard to come buy and cost too much when you do. If it happens to be a shimano hub I believe you could replace the freehub body with the modern version for Hyperglide cassettes. You won't find a 6 speed cassette for it so you would end up going to 7 speed and need new shifters to index.

Or you can get a new rear wheel. Niagara Cycle is a good source for wheels for older bikes at cheaper prices. If you already bought a free wheel you can get a wheel that it will fit up to, give them a call if you are unsure what you need. Or maybe post some pics here for more "expert" advice.

joejack951

Uniglide hubs apparently came in 5, 6, and 7 speed variants. Read up here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html

It sounds like you have a few options for a cassette swap though the best is probably swapping the freehub.

luv_to_cycle

I have also thought about putting a modern wheel...the drop outs are 126mm..I believe the new wheels are 130mm...It is a steal bike. I read on Sheldon Brown's site that you can at times just fit the wheel in with out even spreading the rear triangle...Am considering this option. I will take it apart this weekend and take some pics...I think you guys may be right that it could be a uniglide...

Has anyone tried just fitting the 130mm in to the 126mm space?

joejack951

Yes, I've done it with both steel and aluminum frames without problems. If you have chamfered locknuts the wheel will just sldie right in. Without them, you need to pull slightly as the stays to spread them. They move far easier than you might think.

canam73

You'll do fine with a 130mm wheel. What are your current shifters?

wrk101

+1 Its a Uniglide. Those are obsolete, and the NOS cassettes go high versus what a hyperglide goes for, but you can still buy them. Just google uniglide cassette. Myself, I recently had one, and just swapped out the freehub with a hyperglide instead, so I could use a new cassette.

Where did I get the freehub? From a freebie used MTB wheel I had laying around. The conversion was easy and quick. So it depends on your parts stash which route is the best one.

Uniglide will have 126mm spacing. If you want 130mm spacing, just get a new (or used) wheel. I've rehabbed and upgraded a couple of hundred bikes, and have yet to have bought a new wheel. I just picked up another used wheelset this week. Put an ad on your local C/L, pretty easy to find used wheels. One advantage on used wheels (beyond the lower price) is they typically come with tires, tubes, cassette, and skewers.

bikeman715

to remove the cassette from the freehub you will need two chainwhips to remove the last gear , once you do the remaining 5 will side off.

Al1943

What size is the small chainring on the crankset, and what brand? It may be possible to replace it with a smaller one for lower gearing.
Count the teeth.

Ex Pres 

If it really is an 11t small cog then that makes it a DuraAce hub. The last lock cog, if in good shape, has value. Don't let it get away. The wheel, being DA, also has more value than the lower models, but not terribly so.

mechBgon

Corrolary to that, Dura-Ace from that era uses a unique type of freehub body attachment system, so replacing it with any other sort won't work. Another vote for getting a 130mm rear wheel and a Hyperglide cassette.

wrk101

+1 I did not see the reference to DA, that changes everything. The freehub I swapped out was a Shimano 105.

catmandew52

Here, check out Sheldon's site on early shimano: https://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#uniglide
The other alternative is to look around for a smaller front chainring for your crankset(you didn't mention what kind).
If you've got a 52 or 54 tooth large ring, you could maybe drop down to a 46 or 48 tooth. But you will also, more than likely, have to move your front derailieur down, unless it's a braze-on.
Or change out your cransket to an early mountain bike double.

luv_to_cycle

Hi Canam73...I have 105 shifters. The rear is indexed for 6 speed. If I bought a new wheel I am going to buy a set of 105 brake/shifters. And a new rear derailleur also 105. In another day I would have spent money for Ultegra or Dura-ace. Bought now I spend most my money on my kids. Not to mention I do not think I would see the benefits of the nicer componets until I have ridden for a couple more years.

luv_to_cycle

Hey Al1943. I have a 54,39 up front. Shimano and I can not remember what level of component. I don't think I spent the money when I put it on to by dura-ace...It has been to long..

luv_to_cycle

Not sure Zebede. I will look later today.

Al1943

Then your crankset BCD is probably 130 mm so the smallest inside ring you could use would be a 38, not a big enough change to bother with.

I'd be surprised if your big ring is a 54, more likely a 52 or 53.

It seems your plans for using a cassette with a bigger cog is the best plan. Another alternative would be a compact crankset, but I don't like 50 - 34 cranksets because of the big 16 tooth gearing jump. And a 34 is too small for most riding.

luv_to_cycle

130 mm is correct...Also you are right on the large chain ring. It is 53 not 54. I live her in Salt Lake City, there are a lot of hills and canyons to ride up. My friend who races says that a 39 x 24 should get me up most hills...But thats easy for him say. I think I am going to look at replacing the hub and cassette. I would like an 11-28 in the back.

mechBgon

Tiagra 4600 is 10-speed and would also be worth looking at. If you'd be interested in a compact crank to go with that (50-34 rings), I have one I'm trying to sell off, a used R600. I figure $60 shipped, including the bottom-bracket bearings, if you're in the US:

https://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...n/IMG_0026.jpg
https://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...n/IMG_0025.jpg

When you change to integrated brake/shift levers, also get a matching front derailleur. The old-school leading-action front derailleurs from the 6-speed 105 era shift great with downtube shifters, but they don't jive with the indexing of the integrated levers.

luv_to_cycle

What about dura-ace? My front derailleur is a dure-ace. It is mounted to a braze-on (wrong term?). Will that cause me any difficulties?

mechBgon

It actually may work. Might as well try it and see.