sparks5589

haven hard time trying to remove bottom bracket from bike frame . one side all the slots have broke (non drive side) drive side wont move . but the tool i have only gos in a few mm .


any help ????


thanks

totops1

Have you tried to put your BB remover tool and add a loooong pipe for leverage ?
Try to have 2 people, one taking care of the pipe and the other one making sure that the BB remover stays in the shell (drive side)
that would be with I would try before thinking of doing the HARD way

sparks5589

ive got the right tool . tryed that and tryed to shock it out still wont move .

dabac

They can be stuck wickedly hard. I've used c-clamps to keep the tool in place, a friend on the rack, and a 5 foot cheater bar. The wheel was still about to come off the ground before the BB broke loose.

Oh, make sure you're turning in the right direction.

Continuity

You might want to thoroughly clean the "teeth" on the BB, and use something like a quick release skewer and a few washers to hold the tool on properly. This is pretty important because it's disturbingly easy to break the recesses when the tool invariably spins out at high torque. Use something as long as you can find to turn your BB tool for leverage.

Oh, and make sure that if there's a screw holding the plastic thingy that holds the cables apart under the BB that it's loosened or taken out for the duration - they can interfere with BB access - or like me - I ended up having to buy a wonderfully useful (but rarely used) tool like this....


and one of these:


Tools as shown are "Pedro's BB Socket Holder, VAR BOTTOM BRACKET TOOL and a 24" adjustable spanner"

Oh, I also used the UK version of PB Blaster Penetrating Oil, 12 oz (I forget it's name now)


To get the BB out of my 1993 Marin EG MTB - and a Dremel for the broken up-teethed plastic cup on the other side. - the noise it made when it finally gave =was epic=.

Continuity

You might want to thoroughly clean the "teeth" on the BB, and use something like a quick release skewer and a few washers to hold the tool on properly. This is pretty important because it's disturbingly easy to break the recesses when the tool invariably spins out at high torque. Use something as long as you can find to turn your BB tool for leverage.

Oh, and make sure that if there's a screw holding the plastic thingy that holds the cables apart under the BB that it's loosened or taken out for the duration - they can interfere with BB access - or like me - I ended up having to buy a wonderfully useful (but rarely used) tool like this....


and one of these:


Tools as shown are "Pedro's BB Socket Holder, VAR BOTTOM BRACKET TOOL and a 24" adjustable spanner"

Oh, I also used the UK version of PB Blaster Penetrating Oil, 12 oz (I forget it's name now)


To get the BB out of my 1993 Marin EG MTB - the noise it made when it finally gave =was epic=.

I used a Dremel for the broken up-teethed plastic cup on the other side.

fietsbob

Park Tool Co. » BBT-22 : Bottom Bracket Tool : Bottom Bracket

you can use a 1" socket and a 1/2" drive breaker bar
there is a socket in it, for 3/8 drive .. but the bigger one will be heavier duty ..


you holding your bike solidly enough ? fixed cup is LH thread (excluding made in france and italy)

sparks5589

thanks for that . will have to go buy a BB Socket Holder and try it .

dabac

A c-clamp will work just as well, although not as elegantly.

Doug64

Are you aware there are right and left hand threads on the bottom bracket. Usually you loosen the non-drive side first with cartridge type BBs. This is a right hand thread. The drive side is left hand thread.

httphttps://www.parktool.com/blog/rep...service-bbt://

Crankycrank

Also lay the frame on it's side and put some ice on the BB. Let sit for around 30mins and then pour boiling water over the BB shell and try to unscrew the BB. The heat and cold help to expand the shell and shrink the BB and can help break loose stuck threads. Worth a try since it won't cost anything.

catonec 

bring it to your lbs. they will charge you a few bucks but they wont screw it up.

Bill Kapaun

I picked up a few different length 8mm bolts and a few washers from Carquest.
Use the appropriate length & stack of washers to securely hold the tool in place.

Your crank bolts are the "less common" thread size. .75mm pitch???
The loose bolt is 10mm shorter than the bolt holding the tool.