crankset and front deraiileur compatability
#1
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Thread Starter
crankset and front deraiileur compatability
I have a long haul trucker frame that I am building into a gravel bike for me, I want low gearing. I am very small, the longest crank arms that I want are 165mm. I am looking at several possibilities:
FSA CK-316 JIS Crank Crankset 165mm 44/32/22t . The upside is cheap. The gearing is pretty much what I would want. I have no idea on the reputation or quality of this set.
Shimano Deore XT FCM780 10speed XT chainset HollowTech II 42 32 24T 165mm. Pricier, and maybe too low on the top end.
Sugino XD600 26/36/46, 165mm. Nice enough gearing (though it would be nice to have a 22 or 24 on the bottom. Price is right.
Sugino XD2 Crank, Triple 46x36x24, 165mm. Now my preference. Pricier than the XD600.
So, how do I figure out what front derailleurs will work with these? The Deore/mountain set is easy, I'd just use the mountain derailleur. How about the other two? Any comments on the FSA crank? I know nothing about them.
Shifting isnt an issue, I will use bar end shifters. Unless I go Deore I probably will build this as a nine speed. I see the specks for the Sugino XD600 crank that it is designed for an eight speed chain, so I guess I would have to go eight speeds if I go that route. I see that figuring out what bottom bracket to use is very confusing. Maybe that will be my next question. (Surly's specs are for a 110 using a similar crankset).
FSA CK-316 JIS Crank Crankset 165mm 44/32/22t . The upside is cheap. The gearing is pretty much what I would want. I have no idea on the reputation or quality of this set.
Shimano Deore XT FCM780 10speed XT chainset HollowTech II 42 32 24T 165mm. Pricier, and maybe too low on the top end.
Sugino XD600 26/36/46, 165mm. Nice enough gearing (though it would be nice to have a 22 or 24 on the bottom. Price is right.
Sugino XD2 Crank, Triple 46x36x24, 165mm. Now my preference. Pricier than the XD600.
So, how do I figure out what front derailleurs will work with these? The Deore/mountain set is easy, I'd just use the mountain derailleur. How about the other two? Any comments on the FSA crank? I know nothing about them.
Shifting isnt an issue, I will use bar end shifters. Unless I go Deore I probably will build this as a nine speed. I see the specks for the Sugino XD600 crank that it is designed for an eight speed chain, so I guess I would have to go eight speeds if I go that route. I see that figuring out what bottom bracket to use is very confusing. Maybe that will be my next question. (Surly's specs are for a 110 using a similar crankset).
Last edited by goldfinch; 09-23-14 at 01:55 PM.
#2
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Front derailleurs don't care about crank brand. They mostly care about chainring size and are designed around ranges for largest ring which affects the height and curvature of the cage, and the inner (or granny) which determines how low the back (low) end has to be to clear the chain. There's also some loose correlation between cage width and chain width, or chainring separation, ie 9s, 10s etc.
Mtn FDs are usually designed around outer rings in the 44-48t range, with grannies as small as 24t or up to 24t smaller than the outer. So your Deore should be spot on for your needs with any of these cranks is fine, and if you want a 24t inner you can always buy that separately and install it.
To go smaller than 24t would require a crankset with a granny BCD smaller than 74mm.
Mtn FDs are usually designed around outer rings in the 44-48t range, with grannies as small as 24t or up to 24t smaller than the outer. So your Deore should be spot on for your needs with any of these cranks is fine, and if you want a 24t inner you can always buy that separately and install it.
To go smaller than 24t would require a crankset with a granny BCD smaller than 74mm.
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#3
Banned
seems between road 53t Road, and MTN 42t there is the Trekking 48t group seen thru Shimano's European catalog
havent kept up .. Did get a Deore for 48t, but that was many years ago [ thumb shifters are friction so that compatible issue is moot]
after its yours you can change chainrings from whats in the package.
5 bolt 74 bcd 24t, 58bcd 20t I forget what the 4 bolt ones are.. 64 22t?
FDs are more pushing the chain between toothed-Planes of varying diameters , Brand is pretty immaterial.
havent kept up .. Did get a Deore for 48t, but that was many years ago [ thumb shifters are friction so that compatible issue is moot]
after its yours you can change chainrings from whats in the package.
5 bolt 74 bcd 24t, 58bcd 20t I forget what the 4 bolt ones are.. 64 22t?
FDs are more pushing the chain between toothed-Planes of varying diameters , Brand is pretty immaterial.
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-25-14 at 09:43 AM.
#4
Really Old Senior Member
I'm not knowledgeable about "road stuff", but aren't bar end shifters "road" shifters?
IF so, the FRONT shifter pulls a different amount of cable vs mountain shifters and requires a "road" FDER.
IF friction, then no problem.
Problem is "road" FDER's are designed for 50T+ large rings.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
IF so, the FRONT shifter pulls a different amount of cable vs mountain shifters and requires a "road" FDER.
IF friction, then no problem.
Problem is "road" FDER's are designed for 50T+ large rings.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
#5
Banned
the pro race use is sticking them in the front of aero bars , these days.. in the Tri' bikes & time trials..
the touring rabble puts them in the back of Drop Bars.
left one to the front D is friction . (MINE, both are)
GP put bar end shifters in the BS MB1 specs for a while..
the touring rabble puts them in the back of Drop Bars.
left one to the front D is friction . (MINE, both are)
GP put bar end shifters in the BS MB1 specs for a while..
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-23-14 at 03:24 PM.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'm not knowledgeable about "road stuff", but aren't bar end shifters "road" shifters?
IF so, the FRONT shifter pulls a different amount of cable vs mountain shifters and requires a "road" FDER.
IF friction, then no problem.
Problem is "road" FDER's are designed for 50T+ large rings.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
IF so, the FRONT shifter pulls a different amount of cable vs mountain shifters and requires a "road" FDER.
IF friction, then no problem.
Problem is "road" FDER's are designed for 50T+ large rings.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Front derailleurs don't care about crank brand. They mostly care about chainring size and are designed around ranges for largest ring which affects the height and curvature of the cage, and the inner (or granny) which determines how low the back (low) end has to be to clear the chain. There's also some loose correlation between cage width and chain width, or chainring separation, ie 9s, 10s etc.
Mtn FDs are usually designed around outer rings in the 44-48t range, with grannies as small as 24t or up to 24t smaller than the outer. So your Deore should be spot on for your needs with any of these cranks is fine, and if you want a 24t inner you can always buy that separately and install it.
To go smaller than 24t would require a crankset with a granny BCD smaller than 74mm.
Mtn FDs are usually designed around outer rings in the 44-48t range, with grannies as small as 24t or up to 24t smaller than the outer. So your Deore should be spot on for your needs with any of these cranks is fine, and if you want a 24t inner you can always buy that separately and install it.
To go smaller than 24t would require a crankset with a granny BCD smaller than 74mm.
For knowledge purposes, if I wanted to use road/STI shifters I assume that I would need a road front derailleur. Are they any that work with the Sugino touring cranks? Don't go out of your way to figure it out as I do not plan to go that route. I am just trying to get my arms around the options.
#8
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Thanks, I think I will be good with a 24t as the small ring.
For knowledge purposes, if I wanted to use road/STI shifters I assume that I would need a road front derailleur. Are they any that work with the Sugino touring cranks? Don't go out of your way to figure it out as I do not plan to go that route. I am just trying to get my arms around the options.
For knowledge purposes, if I wanted to use road/STI shifters I assume that I would need a road front derailleur. Are they any that work with the Sugino touring cranks? Don't go out of your way to figure it out as I do not plan to go that route. I am just trying to get my arms around the options.
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#9
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Thanks, I think I will be good with a 24t as the small ring.
For knowledge purposes, if I wanted to use road/STI shifters I assume that I would need a road front derailleur. Are they any that work with the Sugino touring cranks? Don't go out of your way to figure it out as I do not plan to go that route. I am just trying to get my arms around the options.
For knowledge purposes, if I wanted to use road/STI shifters I assume that I would need a road front derailleur. Are they any that work with the Sugino touring cranks? Don't go out of your way to figure it out as I do not plan to go that route. I am just trying to get my arms around the options.
Last edited by edthesped; 09-24-14 at 08:22 PM.
#10
Senior Member
Watch out if you go with a 10sp crank as these are spaced differently than 7/8/9 which are all basically the same. 10sp dyna-sys is narrower and requires a 10sp derailleur. The cable pull is the same, but the derailleur compensates by moving less.
On my 10sp shifter set, the rear shifter is designated as Dyna-sys, but the front is not and works with my old 7 speed front. If you are using friction shifters all this is moot.
On my 10sp shifter set, the rear shifter is designated as Dyna-sys, but the front is not and works with my old 7 speed front. If you are using friction shifters all this is moot.
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Watch out if you go with a 10sp crank as these are spaced differently than 7/8/9 which are all basically the same. 10sp dyna-sys is narrower and requires a 10sp derailleur. The cable pull is the same, but the derailleur compensates by moving less.
On my 10sp shifter set, the rear shifter is designated as Dyna-sys, but the front is not and works with my old 7 speed front. If you are using friction shifters all this is moot.
On my 10sp shifter set, the rear shifter is designated as Dyna-sys, but the front is not and works with my old 7 speed front. If you are using friction shifters all this is moot.
#13
Banned
Aren't all bar end shifters friction on the front?
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-25-14 at 09:48 AM.
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Watch out if you go with a 10sp crank as these are spaced differently than 7/8/9 which are all basically the same. 10sp dyna-sys is narrower and requires a 10sp derailleur. The cable pull is the same, but the derailleur compensates by moving less.
On my 10sp shifter set, the rear shifter is designated as Dyna-sys, but the front is not and works with my old 7 speed front. If you are using friction shifters all this is moot.
On my 10sp shifter set, the rear shifter is designated as Dyna-sys, but the front is not and works with my old 7 speed front. If you are using friction shifters all this is moot.
Is it the 10spd crankset that is spaced different, or the 10spd chainrings? Thought I read somewhere the [Shimano] cranksets were spaced the same, but the chainring mount tabs were redesigned to compensate for the thinner chain. Upgraded my 2000ish 105 3x9 tandem to DI2 and solved one of the front shifting issues by swapping to "10spd" chainrings. Certainly could be wrong, just curious.
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Okay, I'll follow up with my current experience. I'm building up an AWOL frameset and all is done but the front mountain triple 44/32/22 with Tiagra 4503 is not working well at all. It seems the FD does not quite swing out far enough to easily engage the big ring. I tried switching the hollowtech bb shims from the default 2 on drive side and 1 on non drive to 2 on non drive and 1 on drive. Measured distance between center of seat tube and inside face of middle chainring is ~47.5 mm in the non standard configuration and I can get the system to just barely work but must heavily tension the shift cable in the low position to do so and the derailleur is against the outer extent of the swing when on the big chainring. Issue 2 is the lower end of the cage just barely clears the chainstay and the amount of tension on the cable tends to pull the derailleur down the seat tube. At this point I'm looking at a CX70 FD but am not sure it will have enough swing either as it's made for a double.
Another thing I'm considering, I'll check the chain clearance when I have time... Is to nip a little off of the lower portion of the cage to give more chainstay clearance, (if it doesn't create a clearance issue with the chain on the large ring), then tack weld a piece across the bottom to stiffen the cage. I'm thinking I don't have much to lose at this point as I believe, but hope someone here proves me wrong, that I've exhausted all possible options to get this setup to work.
Anyone have any advice?
Another thing I'm considering, I'll check the chain clearance when I have time... Is to nip a little off of the lower portion of the cage to give more chainstay clearance, (if it doesn't create a clearance issue with the chain on the large ring), then tack weld a piece across the bottom to stiffen the cage. I'm thinking I don't have much to lose at this point as I believe, but hope someone here proves me wrong, that I've exhausted all possible options to get this setup to work.
Anyone have any advice?
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Assuming you are using STI? Without moving to a flatbar/mtb-shifter setup, or friction, your best bet is IRD Alpina-d Compact Road Triple Front Derailleur - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts
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Assuming you are using STI? Without moving to a flatbar/mtb-shifter setup, or friction, your best bet is IRD Alpina-d Compact Road Triple Front Derailleur - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts
#18
Really Old Senior Member
I think part of your problem is the FD is designed for a 50-39-30 crank.
Do you have the option of friction shifting the front? If so, get a FDER designed for the ring sizes you have.
Do you have the option of friction shifting the front? If so, get a FDER designed for the ring sizes you have.
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Okay, I'll follow up with my current experience. I'm building up an AWOL frameset and all is done but the front mountain triple 44/32/22 with Tiagra 4503 is not working well at all. It seems the FD does not quite swing out far enough to easily engage the big ring. I tried switching the hollowtech bb shims from the default 2 on drive side and 1 on non drive to 2 on non drive and 1 on drive. Measured distance between center of seat tube and inside face of middle chainring is ~47.5 mm in the non standard configuration and I can get the system to just barely work but must heavily tension the shift cable in the low position to do so and the derailleur is against the outer extent of the swing when on the big chainring. Issue 2 is the lower end of the cage just barely clears the chainstay and the amount of tension on the cable tends to pull the derailleur down the seat tube. At this point I'm looking at a CX70 FD but am not sure it will have enough swing either as it's made for a double.
Another thing I'm considering, I'll check the chain clearance when I have time... Is to nip a little off of the lower portion of the cage to give more chainstay clearance, (if it doesn't create a clearance issue with the chain on the large ring), then tack weld a piece across the bottom to stiffen the cage. I'm thinking I don't have much to lose at this point as I believe, but hope someone here proves me wrong, that I've exhausted all possible options to get this setup to work.
Anyone have any advice?
Another thing I'm considering, I'll check the chain clearance when I have time... Is to nip a little off of the lower portion of the cage to give more chainstay clearance, (if it doesn't create a clearance issue with the chain on the large ring), then tack weld a piece across the bottom to stiffen the cage. I'm thinking I don't have much to lose at this point as I believe, but hope someone here proves me wrong, that I've exhausted all possible options to get this setup to work.
Anyone have any advice?
A shot in the dark, but K-Edge (and FSA used to but may not anymore) and a couple tandem manufacturers like Co-Motion and Santana maybe make FD clamps designed to move a DI2 FD outboard for tandem or triple-to-double conversions...May move your FD outboard and allow getting the outer ring without so much cable tension against the FD's outer limit.
May also allow spacing your cranks back out and avoid chainstay clearance issue.
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A shot in the dark, but K-Edge (and FSA used to but may not anymore) and a couple tandem manufacturers like Co-Motion and Santana maybe make FD clamps designed to move a DI2 FD outboard for tandem or triple-to-double conversions...May move your FD outboard and allow getting the outer ring without so much cable tension against the FD's outer limit.
May also allow spacing your cranks back out and avoid chainstay clearance issue.
May also allow spacing your cranks back out and avoid chainstay clearance issue.
Understood, but the Tiagra 4503 is widely reported to work with mountain triples. I fall in the it doesn't work category.
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I doubt that the 2 tooth difference on the IRD would matter.
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I may take you up on that.
FWIW, I think I have 2 potential issues keeping this from working as it should. The FD is at the limit of it's throw when it's on the big ring and I have to tension the heck out of the cable to coax it that far out. If I could cheat the FD 3mm out I believe everything will work, albeit not as smoothly as it should. The other potential issue is the lower end of the cage barely clears the chainstay. As a last resort I'll run a thumbie for the front but I really hate the thought of doing so.
At this point, I'm thinking I'll bin the Tiagra and get the IRD, if it doesn't work then thumbie it is...
FWIW, I think I have 2 potential issues keeping this from working as it should. The FD is at the limit of it's throw when it's on the big ring and I have to tension the heck out of the cable to coax it that far out. If I could cheat the FD 3mm out I believe everything will work, albeit not as smoothly as it should. The other potential issue is the lower end of the cage barely clears the chainstay. As a last resort I'll run a thumbie for the front but I really hate the thought of doing so.
At this point, I'm thinking I'll bin the Tiagra and get the IRD, if it doesn't work then thumbie it is...
Last edited by edthesped; 10-01-14 at 01:26 PM.
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I may take you up on that.
FWIW, I think I have 2 potential issues keeping this from working as it should. The FD is at the limit of it's throw when it's on the big ring and I have to tension the heck out of the cable to coax it that far out. If I could cheat the FD 3mm out I believe everything will work, albeit not as smoothly as it should. The other potential issue is the lower end of the cage barely clears the chainstay. As a last resort I'll run a thumbie for the front but I really hate the thought of doing so.
At this point, I'm thinking I'll bin the Tiagra and get the IRD, if it doesn't work then thumbie it is...
FWIW, I think I have 2 potential issues keeping this from working as it should. The FD is at the limit of it's throw when it's on the big ring and I have to tension the heck out of the cable to coax it that far out. If I could cheat the FD 3mm out I believe everything will work, albeit not as smoothly as it should. The other potential issue is the lower end of the cage barely clears the chainstay. As a last resort I'll run a thumbie for the front but I really hate the thought of doing so.
At this point, I'm thinking I'll bin the Tiagra and get the IRD, if it doesn't work then thumbie it is...
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How much space between the big-ring and the FD cage? Make sure it is as high as you can possibly get it without the chain rubbing the bottom of the derailleur cage when you are in the granny. In your case, I'd actually select height based on where the FD sits when you are in the small ring.
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Okay, I'll follow up with my current experience. I'm building up an AWOL frameset and all is done but the front mountain triple 44/32/22 with Tiagra 4503 is not working well at all. It seems the FD does not quite swing out far enough to easily engage the big ring. I tried switching the hollowtech bb shims from the default 2 on drive side and 1 on non drive to 2 on non drive and 1 on drive. Measured distance between center of seat tube and inside face of middle chainring is ~47.5 mm in the non standard configuration and I can get the system to just barely work but must heavily tension the shift cable in the low position to do so and the derailleur is against the outer extent of the swing when on the big chainring. Issue 2 is the lower end of the cage just barely clears the chainstay and the amount of tension on the cable tends to pull the derailleur down the seat tube. At this point I'm looking at a CX70 FD but am not sure it will have enough swing either as it's made for a double.
On your second problem, if the derailer is slipping on the seat tube, you haven't got the clamp tight enough. It shouldn't move at all, no matter how much tension you put on the cable.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!