Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
#2251
Jack of all trades
I'm starting with page 90 of this thread, so maybe I'll find time later to see all the other Peugeot conversions.
I finished up this one today, and had time for a 1/2 hour shakedown ride. The crazy-steep angles (the name of a thread I just started) give an extremely rider-foreward stance, but I wasn't uncomfortable.
I'm running 8s Ergos (Veloce or Mirage) with a Shimano derailer that has the cable routed around a tabbed washer so as to lessen the derailer's actuation ratio, so it indexes a 5 or 6-speed freewheel perfectly.
10 hours of work and I haven't even begun to service the bb or cankset yet. EDIT: Up till 1:00am, and c'set/bb are done. And it sounds like your Sancineto (nicely done!) is going to have the same 2nd "birthday" as my ride. I'm going for another 40 or so mi. this AM.
I finished up this one today, and had time for a 1/2 hour shakedown ride. The crazy-steep angles (the name of a thread I just started) give an extremely rider-foreward stance, but I wasn't uncomfortable.
I'm running 8s Ergos (Veloce or Mirage) with a Shimano derailer that has the cable routed around a tabbed washer so as to lessen the derailer's actuation ratio, so it indexes a 5 or 6-speed freewheel perfectly.
10 hours of work and I haven't even begun to service the bb or cankset yet. EDIT: Up till 1:00am, and c'set/bb are done. And it sounds like your Sancineto (nicely done!) is going to have the same 2nd "birthday" as my ride. I'm going for another 40 or so mi. this AM.
I for one would love to see your gear translation set up. I'm pining for a similar setup myself. I'd also like to see if a 9 speed Ergo would work with a Shimano RD. Something for the Mechanic's thread perhaps.
#2254
Senior Member
here's a post with the conversion I did: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...1#post14242296
Its a true threadless set up now, with a new headset and steerer shim (for the modern stem).
the headset (cane creek 100 classic 1") is nice because its like the Chris king's where you can swap out the top part(s) and use a threaded or threadless system. All you have to do is call cane creek to buy the extra parts.
the cane creek 100 classic 1" can be found for $75 and the replacement parts for a threaded top assembly is less than $40 from cane creek. plus cane creek uses the sealed bearings and compression centering ring even in the 1" headsets. so it comes out a lot cheaper with some advantages over the Chris King set ups (+ threaded converter kit).
I did the threadless conversion for two reasons...
1. because I was extremely curious if it would work, and also I found a ritchey double crown fork from a 62cm bridgestone RB-1 that was in really rough shape (rust spots galore). I had it powder blasted and re-powder coated after measuring to see if there was enough steerer to handle a new threadless conversion.
2. this way I always have an extra fork - just in case i ever have a "fork's bent" situation. I can just easily swap out the top part of the headset to the threaded version and use my old fork with a threadless adaptor - or go totally retro with a quill stem ect ect.
Its a true threadless set up now, with a new headset and steerer shim (for the modern stem).
the headset (cane creek 100 classic 1") is nice because its like the Chris king's where you can swap out the top part(s) and use a threaded or threadless system. All you have to do is call cane creek to buy the extra parts.
the cane creek 100 classic 1" can be found for $75 and the replacement parts for a threaded top assembly is less than $40 from cane creek. plus cane creek uses the sealed bearings and compression centering ring even in the 1" headsets. so it comes out a lot cheaper with some advantages over the Chris King set ups (+ threaded converter kit).
I did the threadless conversion for two reasons...
1. because I was extremely curious if it would work, and also I found a ritchey double crown fork from a 62cm bridgestone RB-1 that was in really rough shape (rust spots galore). I had it powder blasted and re-powder coated after measuring to see if there was enough steerer to handle a new threadless conversion.
2. this way I always have an extra fork - just in case i ever have a "fork's bent" situation. I can just easily swap out the top part of the headset to the threaded version and use my old fork with a threadless adaptor - or go totally retro with a quill stem ect ect.
#2255
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My Yokota has had 3 or 4 forks in its life. I still keep a carbon threadless fork and the original threaded steel one around. Switching between them keeps my options open. campy headsets can be swapped between threaded and threadless as well.
#2256
Senior Member
Cross post
Picked this up Diamondback Master TG up yesterday and this is how i got it....
https://sarasota.craigslist.org/bik/3016687777.html
The guy had electrical tape over the original bar wrap,so i pulled it off and the wrap was in surprisingly good condition.The saddle sucken balls,so I went straight to my LBS after picking it up and bought a Bontrager RL for 15 bucks.Also picked up some Lizard Skins DPS in white,but I have to get new cables before I wrap.Luckily I had a seatpost to fit it because the stock post was steel.
This is the current set up
I am probably going swap out all the vintage 105 with a Sram Apex group and some neuvation wheels.
https://sarasota.craigslist.org/bik/3016687777.html
The guy had electrical tape over the original bar wrap,so i pulled it off and the wrap was in surprisingly good condition.The saddle sucken balls,so I went straight to my LBS after picking it up and bought a Bontrager RL for 15 bucks.Also picked up some Lizard Skins DPS in white,but I have to get new cables before I wrap.Luckily I had a seatpost to fit it because the stock post was steel.
This is the current set up
I am probably going swap out all the vintage 105 with a Sram Apex group and some neuvation wheels.
#2257
OMC
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Nice! The Apex group will look good on that bike...remember, though, that just because an 11-32 cassette will work with that group doesn't mean it's the best choice unless you need the wide range.
Is the current rear wheel on your bike set up for a freewheel or a cassette? If the latter, you might want to consider putting a new freehub in it and using the stock wheels. (If you do this, it's probably a good idea to get the wheels serviced, tensioned and trued as well.) Another option, if you want to keep the bike looking "old" but want new wheels, is to get something like these: https://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...oducts_id=1677 . Low spoke count wheels with bladed spokes look kinda strange on a classic steel bike to me...but it's not my bike, so if they're what you want, go for it!
Is the current rear wheel on your bike set up for a freewheel or a cassette? If the latter, you might want to consider putting a new freehub in it and using the stock wheels. (If you do this, it's probably a good idea to get the wheels serviced, tensioned and trued as well.) Another option, if you want to keep the bike looking "old" but want new wheels, is to get something like these: https://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...oducts_id=1677 . Low spoke count wheels with bladed spokes look kinda strange on a classic steel bike to me...but it's not my bike, so if they're what you want, go for it!
__________________
Regards,
Chuck
Demain, on roule!
Regards,
Chuck
Demain, on roule!
#2258
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
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https://www.ctc.org.uk/desktopdefault...id=3946#Hubbub
The modification described basically shortens the derailer's travel in response to cable movements, allowing the use of the Shimano derailer with Campagnolo index shifters.
If you have pre-2001 9-speed Ergolevers, they will index standard 6-speed using a normal (not pre-9-speed Dura-Ace) Shimano indexing derailer, without the above modification.
With 8-speed Ergolevers, using the above-linked cable routing to the derailer anchor bolt washer will also index with 5 or 6-speed standard spacing.
If your shifters are the newer 9-speed Ergo's, consult the linked chart to find something that will work. There are quite a few possibilities.
I just found (on Craigslist for just $20.00!) and re-spaced a pair of wheels for 7-speed use with only 124mm over-locknut axle width for the PX10, and will need to install an 8-speed Campag derailer at this point for use with the new 7s freewheel.
The hubs were only 5-speed, so now there is only a 3.0mm nub of axle protruding past the locknuts (axle is proprietary-thread so couldn't be readily replaced with a longer one).
Here's the Giang freewheel (13-28t) on the re-spaced hub.
Locknut grip surface now extends only 3.5mm beyond the outer face of the small cog, so will just clear a 7-speed (7.3mm) chain width. Note fine-threaded axle, Maillard's best (and as also used on Roval wheel hubs).
Last edited by dddd; 06-05-12 at 04:31 PM.
#2259
Jack of all trades
A thing of beauty, dddd, thanks a lot!!
#2261
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i have a frame just like this to start building
what's your advice, how did you fixed the bb? they match with italian thread?
what other things should i keep in mind?
i am thinking campagnolo chorus, i want a black groupset, carbon or not
sram force might be a sollution, being cheaper
thank you
what's your advice, how did you fixed the bb? they match with italian thread?
what other things should i keep in mind?
i am thinking campagnolo chorus, i want a black groupset, carbon or not
sram force might be a sollution, being cheaper
thank you
Last edited by cesafacamah; 06-13-12 at 07:17 AM.
#2262
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Picked this up yesterday-
'89 Stowe Criterium. PO added Tricolor STIs in the mid 90s. Falling in love with this thing. Hard.
Album link
'89 Stowe Criterium. PO added Tricolor STIs in the mid 90s. Falling in love with this thing. Hard.
Album link
#2263
South Carolina Ed
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i have a frame just like this to start building
what's your advice, how did you fixed the bb? they match with italian thread?
what other things should i keep in mind?
i am thinking campagnolo chorus, i want a black groupset, carbon or not
sram force might be a sollution, being cheaper
thank you
what's your advice, how did you fixed the bb? they match with italian thread?
what other things should i keep in mind?
i am thinking campagnolo chorus, i want a black groupset, carbon or not
sram force might be a sollution, being cheaper
thank you
https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/gsg/ro...RIBMO&tmp=_CAR
#2264
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This is one of the ex-Serotta builders, no? Did I just see this posted somewhere, Paceline maybe??
Very cool...
Very cool...
Picked this up yesterday-
'89 Stowe Criterium. PO added Tricolor STIs in the mid 90s. Falling in love with this thing. Hard.
Album link
'89 Stowe Criterium. PO added Tricolor STIs in the mid 90s. Falling in love with this thing. Hard.
Album link
#2265
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Only posted this bike here and on SA.
#2266
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I looked through every single page and all of these bikes are beautiful! I can't wait to start upgrading my frame.. But I don't even know where to start. Yes, still learning.
#2267
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Here is my 91 Diamondback Prevail TG, Tange Prestige, powder coated and with Tiagra 9-speed running gear. It turned out to be a very light bike and a real sweet ride.
#2269
Jack of all trades
I just sold a DB Master, looked a lot like this, red and it was 22lbs with heavy components. If I hadn't bought my Pug Triathlon I would be still riding it. Nice, under-rated bikes. So they're made in Taiwan, and they're welded. Who cares!
#2270
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Picked this up yesterday-
'89 Stowe Criterium. PO added Tricolor STIs in the mid 90s. Falling in love with this thing. Hard.
Album link
'89 Stowe Criterium. PO added Tricolor STIs in the mid 90s. Falling in love with this thing. Hard.
Album link
#2272
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Proctor Custom... refitting with 600 Tri Colour and not shown is the 600 aero post I liberated from my Cooper and a 600 Tri C wheel set is in the works. "La Piccola Capra Rossa" seems be a fitting name for a bike that climbs so very well...
#2274
Godbotherer
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Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR300 (full SRAM Apex) 1996 Cannondale R800 (Full SRAM Rival), 1997 Cannondale R200 (Shimano Tiagra), 2012 Cannondale CAAD 10-5, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1 (SRAM Force)
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On a side note, it turned out both wheelsets I tried had issues (bent rims). I ended up with. . . basically the same wheels as what came with the bike: Wolber Apline T430 (albeit with Shimano 600 hubs, instead of 105-- not that I'm complaining). So everything is stock except the shifters, saddle, and hubs.
I rode it for 20 miles. Wow. Fastest bike I own (so far) for average speed.
#2275
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After 2 years of upgrades, races, crashes, and being generally beat to hell, I think my Circuit has changed enough to re-post.
Here it was, sparkling and clean right after the build:
And here it is after today's ride (us city folk have to do with stoops because we don't have white garage doors):
Updates:
Bicycle Wheel Warehouse Blackset 10 wheelset
Black Vittoria Pro tires - Soon to be replaced with Continentals
White Rolls saddle - The original red one's color bled all over my shorts even after thousands of miles and made it impossible to ride in regular pants
53/39 SRAM Rival chainrings/bolts - I had originally used Specialites TA Alize 52 rings, but the front shifting was still poor. These work great, but I have to get used to the 39 replacing the original 42. Also they're not very bling. Oh well, form over function I suppose.
Cinelli 1A stem 100mm - Original spec 90mm was way too short
SRAM 1051 chain - Original 1071 chain finally snapped a link; found out that the 1051 is specced out to be more robust even though it's - oh no - 20g heavier because it doesn't have hollow pins...again, oh no.
After getting to know this bike very well, I'm ready for a stiffer frame. Next up, a 1986 Peloton. Still waiting to get the group set together. I'll most likely build it up very close to how the Circuit is built.
Here it was, sparkling and clean right after the build:
And here it is after today's ride (us city folk have to do with stoops because we don't have white garage doors):
Updates:
Bicycle Wheel Warehouse Blackset 10 wheelset
Black Vittoria Pro tires - Soon to be replaced with Continentals
White Rolls saddle - The original red one's color bled all over my shorts even after thousands of miles and made it impossible to ride in regular pants
53/39 SRAM Rival chainrings/bolts - I had originally used Specialites TA Alize 52 rings, but the front shifting was still poor. These work great, but I have to get used to the 39 replacing the original 42. Also they're not very bling. Oh well, form over function I suppose.
Cinelli 1A stem 100mm - Original spec 90mm was way too short
SRAM 1051 chain - Original 1071 chain finally snapped a link; found out that the 1051 is specced out to be more robust even though it's - oh no - 20g heavier because it doesn't have hollow pins...again, oh no.
After getting to know this bike very well, I'm ready for a stiffer frame. Next up, a 1986 Peloton. Still waiting to get the group set together. I'll most likely build it up very close to how the Circuit is built.
Last edited by jeebusaurousrex; 07-01-12 at 12:52 PM.