For the love of English 3 speeds...
01-10-16, 02:49 PM
#9101
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times
in
288 Posts
And on a final Portland CL note, I saw this nice Rudge. A bit high at $400, but in really good shape.https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/bik/5395759785.html
01-10-16, 03:28 PM
#9102
Senior Member
This is the reason that I don't think it's worth spending any money on these bikes unless:
A)-You're going to keep it and ride it or
B)-the bike was free, or almost free.
Even if you sell it for the sum of the original price plus the new tires/parts etc you'll be lucky to break even and then there's the labour that you'll never recoup.
A)-You're going to keep it and ride it or
B)-the bike was free, or almost free.
Even if you sell it for the sum of the original price plus the new tires/parts etc you'll be lucky to break even and then there's the labour that you'll never recoup.
01-10-16, 06:04 PM
#9105
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times
in
288 Posts
The Rudge is a bike I would consider at that price... but I am NOT buying anymore bikes until I get rid of a few.
01-10-16, 06:07 PM
#9106
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times
in
288 Posts
01-10-16, 06:38 PM
#9107
Junior Member
Just reinstalled the newly overhauled hub on my 1979 Tourist and ran into a couple of issues and a WTF. The major WTF is the axle nuts. My Tourist has a pair of large hex nuts for both sides of the axle and the indicator stand-off that the indicator chain exits thru is a separate threaded tube. That tube still threads on fine but both of the axle nuts are totally striped to the point that I can slide them up and down the axle by a good half an inch. This is the first time I have ever disassembled the rear hub and the axle nuts didn't appear striped when I took it apart initially. Really perplexed at how they could be so far gone after simply sitting in a drawer for a couple of month. In any case can anyone tell me the threading for these nuts and / or a good source for replacements that aren't striped?
Second question is cone adjustment. Sheldon Brown describes adjustments that pretty much add up to finger tight and a bit more Googling the topic seems to echo that but I'm not getting a smooth spinning wheel when I adjust the cones on that basis. Anyone have a procedure more exacting than 'finger-tight and then back off a quarter turn"?
Thanks for any suggestions
Riley
Second question is cone adjustment. Sheldon Brown describes adjustments that pretty much add up to finger tight and a bit more Googling the topic seems to echo that but I'm not getting a smooth spinning wheel when I adjust the cones on that basis. Anyone have a procedure more exacting than 'finger-tight and then back off a quarter turn"?
Thanks for any suggestions
Riley
01-10-16, 06:46 PM
#9108
Bike Butcher of Portland
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,667
Bikes: It's complicated.
Mentioned: 1303 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4699 Post(s)
Liked 5,857 Times
in
2,305 Posts
Here is the newly powdercoated 1971 Raleigh Twenty with new vinyl decals from VeloCals (thanks Santa!). Very easy to install, and they include detailed application instructions. I used the "wet" method. Of course, nothing is like the originals, but I'm happy and the bike is no longer having an "identity crisis". 
Only regret is that I forgot to have @gugie add fork fender eyelets. I had to buy these ugly extensions from VO that extend from the axle so the fender stays would have a place to mount. Would like to find a R20 fork (with thimbles) that I could have eyelets brazed/welded on then have that fork powder coated. I'd make sure to remove the thimbles BEFORE powdercoat.
Only regret is that I forgot to have @gugie add fork fender eyelets. I had to buy these ugly extensions from VO that extend from the axle so the fender stays would have a place to mount. Would like to find a R20 fork (with thimbles) that I could have eyelets brazed/welded on then have that fork powder coated. I'd make sure to remove the thimbles BEFORE powdercoat.
Looks great, I can imagine you getting lots of compliments on the trail!
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
01-10-16, 06:48 PM
#9109
Bike Butcher of Portland
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,667
Bikes: It's complicated.
Mentioned: 1303 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4699 Post(s)
Liked 5,857 Times
in
2,305 Posts
Great tip. Thank you! I'm getting my $25 Raleigh Sport ready to sell. I just have to reattach the rear fender & replace 1 spoke that I accidentally broke. I've completely overhauled everything - both wheel hubs, headset, bottom bracket, etc. It's a very large size. My cute little 19" fits me great,
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm......................................
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
01-10-16, 06:52 PM
#9110
Senior Member
You're welcome to have at it. You know I paid only $25. Spent about $32 for new tubes/tires. It's taking up space in the garage. 
I'd sell it to you at cost. That way if you decided it wasn't for you, you could sell it or canibalize it.
shoot me an email.
I'd sell it to you at cost. That way if you decided it wasn't for you, you could sell it or canibalize it.shoot me an email.
01-10-16, 08:59 PM
#9111
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Manhattan & Woodstock NY
Posts: 2,780
Bikes: 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, early '70s Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1
Mentioned: 113 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 948 Post(s)
Liked 3,042 Times
in
1,000 Posts
01-11-16, 06:10 AM
#9112
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times
in
85 Posts
Here is the newly powdercoated 1971 Raleigh Twenty with new vinyl decals from VeloCals (thanks Santa!). Very easy to install, and they include detailed application instructions. I used the "wet" method. Of course, nothing is like the originals, but I'm happy and the bike is no longer having an "identity crisis".
Raleigh Twenty Vinyl Decal by velocivixen, on Flickr
Raleigh Twenty New Decals by velocivixen, on Flickr
R20 Seat Tube Vinyl Decals by velocivixen, on Flickr
Raleigh Twenty by velocivixen, on Flickr
R20 New Decals by velocivixen, on Flickr
They also sell a couple of different decals which are meant to have liquid paint clearcoat over the top - one is slightly thicker & the other is extremely thin.
Only regret is that I forgot to have @gugie add fork fender eyelets. I had to buy these ugly extensions from VO that extend from the axle so the fender stays would have a place to mount. Would like to find a R20 fork (with thimbles) that I could have eyelets brazed/welded on then have that fork powder coated. I'd make sure to remove the thimbles BEFORE powdercoat.
Raleigh Twenty Vinyl Decal by velocivixen, on FlickrRaleigh Twenty New Decals by velocivixen, on FlickrR20 Seat Tube Vinyl Decals by velocivixen, on FlickrRaleigh Twenty by velocivixen, on FlickrR20 New Decals by velocivixen, on FlickrThey also sell a couple of different decals which are meant to have liquid paint clearcoat over the top - one is slightly thicker & the other is extremely thin.
Only regret is that I forgot to have @gugie add fork fender eyelets. I had to buy these ugly extensions from VO that extend from the axle so the fender stays would have a place to mount. Would like to find a R20 fork (with thimbles) that I could have eyelets brazed/welded on then have that fork powder coated. I'd make sure to remove the thimbles BEFORE powdercoat.
That looks great! These new materials may not look exactly the same as the old enamel and varnish transfers, but they will be far more durable and fade resistant. Good job!
01-11-16, 06:39 AM
#9113
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,668
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 484 Post(s)
Liked 650 Times
in
348 Posts
Just reinstalled the newly overhauled hub on my 1979 Tourist and ran into a couple of issues and a WTF. The major WTF is the axle nuts. My Tourist has a pair of large hex nuts for both sides of the axle and the indicator stand-off that the indicator chain exits thru is a separate threaded tube. That tube still threads on fine but both of the axle nuts are totally striped to the point that I can slide them up and down the axle by a good half an inch. This is the first time I have ever disassembled the rear hub and the axle nuts didn't appear striped when I took it apart initially. Really perplexed at how they could be so far gone after simply sitting in a drawer for a couple of month. In any case can anyone tell me the threading for these nuts and / or a good source for replacements that aren't striped?
Second question is cone adjustment. Sheldon Brown describes adjustments that pretty much add up to finger tight and a bit more Googling the topic seems to echo that but I'm not getting a smooth spinning wheel when I adjust the cones on that basis. Anyone have a procedure more exacting than 'finger-tight and then back off a quarter turn"?
Thanks for any suggestions
Riley
Second question is cone adjustment. Sheldon Brown describes adjustments that pretty much add up to finger tight and a bit more Googling the topic seems to echo that but I'm not getting a smooth spinning wheel when I adjust the cones on that basis. Anyone have a procedure more exacting than 'finger-tight and then back off a quarter turn"?
Thanks for any suggestions
Riley
On the adjustment, I used the sheldon method quite successfully, but I think its "finger tight then back off enough to let the square locking washer make it over the flats of the nut"....which can be less than 1/4 turn. Do you feel roughness in the bearing or is there a different issue that makes you feel it is not smooth? Also, cones need to be tight enough to give a *small* amount of play at the rim, but not so tight as to bind.
01-11-16, 08:47 AM
#9114
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times
in
85 Posts
Sounds to me like the axle nuts are the correct size, but incorrect thread pitch and somebody just forced them on. They would seem tight because they were cross threaded. When you took them off, the mashed up threads wouldn't hold anymore.
edit to add: The good news is that the axle is case hardened and the nuts probably aren't. So the axle threads should have survived the ham fisted repair job.
edit to add: The good news is that the axle is case hardened and the nuts probably aren't. So the axle threads should have survived the ham fisted repair job.
Last edited by BigChief; 01-11-16 at 08:58 AM.
01-11-16, 08:51 AM
#9115
Abuse Magnet
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,870
Bikes: '91 Mtn Tek Vertical, '74 Raleigh Sports, '72 Raleigh Twenty, '84 Univega Gran Turismo, '09 Surly Karate Monkey, '92 Burley Rock-n-Roll, '86 Miyata 310, '76 Raleigh Shopper
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 152 Post(s)
Liked 177 Times
in
90 Posts
That Twenty is beautiful.
01-11-16, 09:34 AM
#9116
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 2,977
Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 4 Rival; 2014 Cannondale Trail 7 29; 1972 Schwinn Suburban, 1996 Proflex 756, 1987(?) Peugeot, Dahon Speed P8; 1979 Raleigh Competition GS; 1995 Stumpjumper M2 FS, 1978 Raleigh Sports, Schwinn Prologue
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
Blah, mine is currently down. Something is stripped on the rear drive side. I can't get the nut holding the wheel on to stay tight. That's probably why my SA hub went out of whack on me. Hopefully this week I'll be able to see what's what and hopefully it is an easy fix.
01-11-16, 09:53 AM
#9117
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times
in
85 Posts
Got the Rudge painted. Still has the rusty Schwinn front wheel. noglider is quite correct about the tread on those Kenda 597s. It is truly awful. But, enough wrenching for now. I want to ride a while. I'll get all the bugs out eventually.
01-11-16, 10:05 AM
#9118
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,561
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 513 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7376 Post(s)
Liked 2,531 Times
in
1,471 Posts
@erileykc and @bmthom.gis, those axle nuts are designed to strip easily, believe it or not. They are made of soft metal. The rationale is that the axle is valuable and also difficult to change, so rather than risking the nut stripping the axle, the axle strips the nut. Tightening the nuts properly takes a bit of skill. You have to make them tight enough that the wheel won't slip but not tight enough to strip them. And still, you'll strip them occasionally. Buy a new pair plus a spare pair.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
01-11-16, 10:15 AM
#9119
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 2,977
Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 4 Rival; 2014 Cannondale Trail 7 29; 1972 Schwinn Suburban, 1996 Proflex 756, 1987(?) Peugeot, Dahon Speed P8; 1979 Raleigh Competition GS; 1995 Stumpjumper M2 FS, 1978 Raleigh Sports, Schwinn Prologue
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
@erileykc and @bmthom.gis, those axle nuts are designed to strip easily, believe it or not. They are made of soft metal. The rationale is that the axle is valuable and also difficult to change, so rather than risking the nut stripping the axle, the axle strips the nut. Tightening the nuts properly takes a bit of skill. You have to make them tight enough that the wheel won't slip but not tight enough to strip them. And still, you'll strip them occasionally. Buy a new pair plus a spare pair.
01-11-16, 10:23 AM
#9120
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,561
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 513 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7376 Post(s)
Liked 2,531 Times
in
1,471 Posts
Yes, this happens a lot. It's the nut. The axle is made of very hard steel, for durability.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
01-11-16, 10:33 AM
#9121
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times
in
85 Posts
Be careful to get the correct axle nuts. The ones you need are a Witworth thread. Won't find em at the hardware store. Glad we have the internet. Things like this were really hard to find back in the day.
Last edited by BigChief; 01-11-16 at 10:38 AM.
01-11-16, 10:36 AM
#9122
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 2,977
Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 4 Rival; 2014 Cannondale Trail 7 29; 1972 Schwinn Suburban, 1996 Proflex 756, 1987(?) Peugeot, Dahon Speed P8; 1979 Raleigh Competition GS; 1995 Stumpjumper M2 FS, 1978 Raleigh Sports, Schwinn Prologue
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
You about made my day
01-11-16, 10:50 AM
#9123
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,561
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 513 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7376 Post(s)
Liked 2,531 Times
in
1,471 Posts
Back in MY day, every bike shop carried the nuts. Where did you live? I lived in NYC and Boston.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
01-11-16, 11:04 AM
#9124
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times
in
85 Posts
I've been living in rural Maine since the 70s. Back in the late 60s, I had a summer job at a Raleigh/ Schwinn dealer in New Jersey and was always watchful on junk day, so I've built up a good horde of spare parts over the years. But, finding Witworth nuts out where I live before the internet was just about impossible.
01-11-16, 12:08 PM
#9125
Senior Member
Thanks @arex & @BigChief for the compliments. Glad it's done. I still want to watch for a fork for a R20 so I can have @gugie add fender eyelets @ powder coat.
@erileykc - regarding the cone adjustment. I use Sheldon Brown or, there's an online video - search "Graham's Garage" & he has 3-4 on specifics of Sturmey Archer hub overhaul & adjustment. I turn the drive side cone until I feel it touch the ball bearings, then back off up to 1/2 turn. Enough so that specifically shaped lock washer will go on. Then adjust the non drive side cone & apply lock washer. Once you install wheel onto the bike & tighten the nuts down to hold wheel in place, chances are you will notice play in the wheel. At this point I adjust the cone while wheel is on the bike. I loosen the nuts, then use 2 very thin dpanners to loosen the lock washer, tighten the cone, then retighten lock washer. Easier vs taking the rear wheel off & on multiple times.
Interesting to find that the it's for these axles are soft. Thanks @noglider for that info.
@erileykc - regarding the cone adjustment. I use Sheldon Brown or, there's an online video - search "Graham's Garage" & he has 3-4 on specifics of Sturmey Archer hub overhaul & adjustment. I turn the drive side cone until I feel it touch the ball bearings, then back off up to 1/2 turn. Enough so that specifically shaped lock washer will go on. Then adjust the non drive side cone & apply lock washer. Once you install wheel onto the bike & tighten the nuts down to hold wheel in place, chances are you will notice play in the wheel. At this point I adjust the cone while wheel is on the bike. I loosen the nuts, then use 2 very thin dpanners to loosen the lock washer, tighten the cone, then retighten lock washer. Easier vs taking the rear wheel off & on multiple times.
Interesting to find that the it's for these axles are soft. Thanks @noglider for that info.