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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 01-10-16, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by adventurepdx
And on a final Portland CL note, I saw this nice Rudge. A bit high at $400, but in really good shape.https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/bik/5395759785.html
I like that Rudge as well. Looks like it has a coster brake hub.
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Old 01-10-16, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
This is the reason that I don't think it's worth spending any money on these bikes unless:
A)-You're going to keep it and ride it or
B)-the bike was free, or almost free.
Even if you sell it for the sum of the original price plus the new tires/parts etc you'll be lucky to break even and then there's the labour that you'll never recoup.
Which is a bit of a shame, because it would be nice to get some semi-modernized three speeds out to aspiring commuters. I think the only way to make it work if you were some bespoke operation where someone would come to you, pick out an old three speed and choose the modifications. Of course, finding the people who would be the customers wouldn't be that easy.
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Old 01-10-16, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
The only guy at the Toronto Vintage Bike Show who makes any (real) money drives in from Peterborough with 15-20 bikes that he's bought in the country at garage sales and such.
Is that Lumpy?
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Old 01-10-16, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
I like that Rudge as well. Looks like it has a coster brake hub.
To your earlier post, doubt you could get a "free" bike to that level of quality for less than the asking price....good deal for someone that wants something that is almost new.
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Old 01-10-16, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by markk900
To your earlier post, doubt you could get a "free" bike to that level of quality for less than the asking price....good deal for someone that wants something that is almost new.
The Rudge is a bike I would consider at that price... but I am NOT buying anymore bikes until I get rid of a few.
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Old 01-10-16, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by markk900
Is that Lumpy?
No, not Lumpy. His name is Brian.
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Old 01-10-16, 06:38 PM
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Just reinstalled the newly overhauled hub on my 1979 Tourist and ran into a couple of issues and a WTF. The major WTF is the axle nuts. My Tourist has a pair of large hex nuts for both sides of the axle and the indicator stand-off that the indicator chain exits thru is a separate threaded tube. That tube still threads on fine but both of the axle nuts are totally striped to the point that I can slide them up and down the axle by a good half an inch. This is the first time I have ever disassembled the rear hub and the axle nuts didn't appear striped when I took it apart initially. Really perplexed at how they could be so far gone after simply sitting in a drawer for a couple of month. In any case can anyone tell me the threading for these nuts and / or a good source for replacements that aren't striped?

Second question is cone adjustment. Sheldon Brown describes adjustments that pretty much add up to finger tight and a bit more Googling the topic seems to echo that but I'm not getting a smooth spinning wheel when I adjust the cones on that basis. Anyone have a procedure more exacting than 'finger-tight and then back off a quarter turn"?

Thanks for any suggestions

Riley
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Old 01-10-16, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Here is the newly powdercoated 1971 Raleigh Twenty with new vinyl decals from VeloCals (thanks Santa!). Very easy to install, and they include detailed application instructions. I used the "wet" method. Of course, nothing is like the originals, but I'm happy and the bike is no longer having an "identity crisis".



Only regret is that I forgot to have @gugie add fork fender eyelets. I had to buy these ugly extensions from VO that extend from the axle so the fender stays would have a place to mount. Would like to find a R20 fork (with thimbles) that I could have eyelets brazed/welded on then have that fork powder coated. I'd make sure to remove the thimbles BEFORE powdercoat.
Thanks for adding the "full monty" shot! But, shoot! Wish I woulda tought of fenders!

Looks great, I can imagine you getting lots of compliments on the trail!
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Old 01-10-16, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Great tip. Thank you! I'm getting my $25 Raleigh Sport ready to sell. I just have to reattach the rear fender & replace 1 spoke that I accidentally broke. I've completely overhauled everything - both wheel hubs, headset, bottom bracket, etc. It's a very large size. My cute little 19" fits me great,
It's a very large size?

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm......................................
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Old 01-10-16, 06:52 PM
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You're welcome to have at it. You know I paid only $25. Spent about $32 for new tubes/tires. It's taking up space in the garage. I'd sell it to you at cost. That way if you decided it wasn't for you, you could sell it or canibalize it.

shoot me an email.
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Old 01-10-16, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
Oh, that Rudge! My favorite!
Yes, that's the model I mentioned in my email earlier...3 speed coaster brake. I got that (used) sometime around 1966. No front fender and a Wals basket. I lost track of it somewhere in the mid 1970s, fancied myself a racer boy.
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Old 01-11-16, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Here is the newly powdercoated 1971 Raleigh Twenty with new vinyl decals from VeloCals (thanks Santa!). Very easy to install, and they include detailed application instructions. I used the "wet" method. Of course, nothing is like the originals, but I'm happy and the bike is no longer having an "identity crisis".

Raleigh Twenty Vinyl Decal by velocivixen, on Flickr

Raleigh Twenty New Decals by velocivixen, on Flickr

R20 Seat Tube Vinyl Decals by velocivixen, on Flickr




Raleigh Twenty by velocivixen, on Flickr



R20 New Decals by velocivixen, on Flickr


They also sell a couple of different decals which are meant to have liquid paint clearcoat over the top - one is slightly thicker & the other is extremely thin.

Only regret is that I forgot to have @gugie add fork fender eyelets. I had to buy these ugly extensions from VO that extend from the axle so the fender stays would have a place to mount. Would like to find a R20 fork (with thimbles) that I could have eyelets brazed/welded on then have that fork powder coated. I'd make sure to remove the thimbles BEFORE powdercoat.

That looks great! These new materials may not look exactly the same as the old enamel and varnish transfers, but they will be far more durable and fade resistant. Good job!
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Old 01-11-16, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by erileykc
Just reinstalled the newly overhauled hub on my 1979 Tourist and ran into a couple of issues and a WTF. The major WTF is the axle nuts. My Tourist has a pair of large hex nuts for both sides of the axle and the indicator stand-off that the indicator chain exits thru is a separate threaded tube. That tube still threads on fine but both of the axle nuts are totally striped to the point that I can slide them up and down the axle by a good half an inch. This is the first time I have ever disassembled the rear hub and the axle nuts didn't appear striped when I took it apart initially. Really perplexed at how they could be so far gone after simply sitting in a drawer for a couple of month. In any case can anyone tell me the threading for these nuts and / or a good source for replacements that aren't striped?

Second question is cone adjustment. Sheldon Brown describes adjustments that pretty much add up to finger tight and a bit more Googling the topic seems to echo that but I'm not getting a smooth spinning wheel when I adjust the cones on that basis. Anyone have a procedure more exacting than 'finger-tight and then back off a quarter turn"?

Thanks for any suggestions

Riley
Are you sure they are the right nuts (ie. the ones you took off)? Stripped badly enough to slide up and down the threaded part of the axle is pretty stripped and I would expect if it happened when you removed them you would have felt/seen that problem.....Second idea would be to get a new set from the LBS to see how they fit. I assume you can see the threads on the axle and they look OK.

On the adjustment, I used the sheldon method quite successfully, but I think its "finger tight then back off enough to let the square locking washer make it over the flats of the nut"....which can be less than 1/4 turn. Do you feel roughness in the bearing or is there a different issue that makes you feel it is not smooth? Also, cones need to be tight enough to give a *small* amount of play at the rim, but not so tight as to bind.
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Old 01-11-16, 08:47 AM
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Sounds to me like the axle nuts are the correct size, but incorrect thread pitch and somebody just forced them on. They would seem tight because they were cross threaded. When you took them off, the mashed up threads wouldn't hold anymore.
edit to add: The good news is that the axle is case hardened and the nuts probably aren't. So the axle threads should have survived the ham fisted repair job.
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Old 01-11-16, 08:51 AM
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That Twenty is beautiful.
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Old 01-11-16, 09:34 AM
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Blah, mine is currently down. Something is stripped on the rear drive side. I can't get the nut holding the wheel on to stay tight. That's probably why my SA hub went out of whack on me. Hopefully this week I'll be able to see what's what and hopefully it is an easy fix.
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Old 01-11-16, 09:53 AM
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Got the Rudge painted. Still has the rusty Schwinn front wheel. noglider is quite correct about the tread on those Kenda 597s. It is truly awful. But, enough wrenching for now. I want to ride a while. I'll get all the bugs out eventually.
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Old 01-11-16, 10:05 AM
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@erileykc and @bmthom.gis, those axle nuts are designed to strip easily, believe it or not. They are made of soft metal. The rationale is that the axle is valuable and also difficult to change, so rather than risking the nut stripping the axle, the axle strips the nut. Tightening the nuts properly takes a bit of skill. You have to make them tight enough that the wheel won't slip but not tight enough to strip them. And still, you'll strip them occasionally. Buy a new pair plus a spare pair.
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Old 01-11-16, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider
@erileykc and @bmthom.gis, those axle nuts are designed to strip easily, believe it or not. They are made of soft metal. The rationale is that the axle is valuable and also difficult to change, so rather than risking the nut stripping the axle, the axle strips the nut. Tightening the nuts properly takes a bit of skill. You have to make them tight enough that the wheel won't slip but not tight enough to strip them. And still, you'll strip them occasionally. Buy a new pair plus a spare pair.
So you think it could just be the nut? That's terrific news! I *really* didn't want to change the axle.
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Old 01-11-16, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by bmthom.gis
So you think it could just be the nut? That's terrific news! I *really* didn't want to change the axle.
Yes, this happens a lot. It's the nut. The axle is made of very hard steel, for durability.
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Old 01-11-16, 10:33 AM
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Be careful to get the correct axle nuts. The ones you need are a Witworth thread. Won't find em at the hardware store. Glad we have the internet. Things like this were really hard to find back in the day.
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Old 01-11-16, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Be careful to get the correct axle nuts. The ones you need are a Withworth thread. Won't find em at the hardware store. Glad we have the internet. Things like this were really hard to find back in the day.
Thanks for that...I was just planning to hit up the Home Depot.

Originally Posted by noglider
Yes, this happens a lot. It's the nut. The axle is made of very hard steel, for durability.
You about made my day
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Old 01-11-16, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Be careful to get the correct axle nuts. The ones you need are a Witworth thread. Won't find em at the hardware store. Glad we have the internet. Things like this were really hard to find back in the day.
Back in MY day, every bike shop carried the nuts. Where did you live? I lived in NYC and Boston.
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Old 01-11-16, 11:04 AM
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I've been living in rural Maine since the 70s. Back in the late 60s, I had a summer job at a Raleigh/ Schwinn dealer in New Jersey and was always watchful on junk day, so I've built up a good horde of spare parts over the years. But, finding Witworth nuts out where I live before the internet was just about impossible.
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Old 01-11-16, 12:08 PM
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Thanks @arex & @BigChief for the compliments. Glad it's done. I still want to watch for a fork for a R20 so I can have @gugie add fender eyelets @ powder coat.
@erileykc - regarding the cone adjustment. I use Sheldon Brown or, there's an online video - search "Graham's Garage" & he has 3-4 on specifics of Sturmey Archer hub overhaul & adjustment. I turn the drive side cone until I feel it touch the ball bearings, then back off up to 1/2 turn. Enough so that specifically shaped lock washer will go on. Then adjust the non drive side cone & apply lock washer. Once you install wheel onto the bike & tighten the nuts down to hold wheel in place, chances are you will notice play in the wheel. At this point I adjust the cone while wheel is on the bike. I loosen the nuts, then use 2 very thin dpanners to loosen the lock washer, tighten the cone, then retighten lock washer. Easier vs taking the rear wheel off & on multiple times.


Interesting to find that the it's for these axles are soft. Thanks @noglider for that info.
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