For the love of English 3 speeds...
10-04-14, 07:25 AM
#5526
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10-04-14, 08:18 AM
#5527
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It's an English bike that was a ten speed before I got my hands on it. It now has a Sturmey Archer S3X 3-speed fixed gear hub. It's quite light and spritely.
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10-04-14, 09:10 AM
#5528
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Here's a quick project that I was working on last weekend. A 1964 Raleigh built 3 speed for Eatons of Canada. I t still have a few details to finish but all and all a nice ride.
More photos here:
1964 Glider Update. | Three Speed Mania
1964 Glider Update. | Three Speed Mania
10-04-14, 09:40 AM
#5529
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10-04-14, 02:05 PM
#5531
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Yes, I am.
10-04-14, 03:49 PM
#5532
Count Orlok Member
I fixed up a '64 Speedster that had an AW hub. Fork was bent, but the fellas in the machine shop straightened for me. I gave it to a coworker.
I've also seen a few Schwinns with 36H alloy hubs.
I've also seen a few Schwinns with 36H alloy hubs.
10-04-14, 08:28 PM
#5533
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Yes- apparently Schwinn actually ordered quite a few of the alloy hubs, at least compared to others. I actually have a 1954 alloy AW I just cleaned out. Will have to get a picture of it. It came off a Schwinn as well, if I recall.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
10-04-14, 09:06 PM
#5534
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I don't think I've ever seen such slack angles!
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
10-07-14, 08:44 AM
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There's usually some on eBay:
Vintage Bicycle Dynamo Front Lamp Bracket Raleigh BSA Rudge Humber Lucas Miller | eBay
Vintage Bicycle Dynamo Front Lamp Bracket Raleigh BSA Rudge Humber Lucas Miller | eBay
10-11-14, 01:13 PM
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Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
10-11-14, 01:14 PM
#5538
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Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
10-11-14, 03:06 PM
#5539
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Is it true that the plastic oil caps seal better than the metal?
10-11-14, 04:01 PM
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Plastic leaks less than metal but plastic still deforms and hardens then the fitting get a little loose. Recently I laced a 1963 hub to a CR18 rim and I just cut out a 1" section of inner tube. Forced it onto the hub and no more leaks. It is also very convenient to put oil in there. I just need to move the tube slightly to expose the hole. One can only do this when lacing the hub, though.
I have a 1956 hub that has metal and a 1960 with plastic. However, there is no 100% guarantee that the cap is original on the 1960 hub.
I have a 1956 hub that has metal and a 1960 with plastic. However, there is no 100% guarantee that the cap is original on the 1960 hub.
10-11-14, 04:45 PM
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I repaired the metal one on my 49 hub with a 0000 rubber stopper I got from Widgetco ( actually they were cheap so I bought 10 which was good for experimenting with). Looks like a regular black cap and you don't have to re-lace the wheel. I oil through the indicator chain hole now.
10-11-14, 05:11 PM
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When they are new...
I buy plastic caps (prefer the old white ones) by the dozen when I find them on sale.
An alternate if your cap is missing or in the case of the metal ones the flip cap is gone, is to use a nylon screw, I have a handful of those too and just cut them down a bit and thread them in the hole.
Aaron
I buy plastic caps (prefer the old white ones) by the dozen when I find them on sale.
An alternate if your cap is missing or in the case of the metal ones the flip cap is gone, is to use a nylon screw, I have a handful of those too and just cut them down a bit and thread them in the hole.
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
10-11-14, 05:27 PM
#5543
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If you're parking an English 3-speed, make sure the oil port is at 12:00, and you won't have to worry about the cap.
Besides, it wouldn't be English if it didn't leak oil.
Besides, it wouldn't be English if it didn't leak oil.
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10-11-14, 07:26 PM
#5544
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Just bought a 73 Raleigh LTD 3 for my sister. I think it needs a little bath...
10-11-14, 08:21 PM
#5545
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Oh my. But I finally get to say, That'll buff right out. 
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
10-11-14, 09:06 PM
#5546
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10-11-14, 09:29 PM
#5547
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These McMaster-Carr caps may not work, at least without some work.
First the thread size of the AW is 1/4" x 20.
The caps have only about three threads so most of the McMaster-Carr caps are too long.
Then the shipping is just as high as some places selling the AW replacement caps. The caps are inexpensive but the shipping is not.
A whole used hub may cost just about as much as the cost of getting one of these caps.
First the thread size of the AW is 1/4" x 20.
The caps have only about three threads so most of the McMaster-Carr caps are too long.
Then the shipping is just as high as some places selling the AW replacement caps. The caps are inexpensive but the shipping is not.
A whole used hub may cost just about as much as the cost of getting one of these caps.
10-24-14, 12:30 AM
#5548
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I am back! Unfortunately, my '65 Raleigh Sport has not returned to me, but I did pick up this '69-ish model from a guy on Craigslist last weekend for $100. It's in pretty rough shape, but I intend for it to be my boyfriend's ride once I get a suitable step-through frame. I think someone put an older chain case on it, then added some replacement "decals" to match. Also, someone filed off the pump pegs 
senseless violence... why??
I apologize in advance for the messiness of my apartment; all I have been thinking about is bikes lately for some reason...
It needs a new stem; someone had changed the handlebars, and the 15/16" holder was not cutting it.
A bike without a stem:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...34-38-0449.jpg
I was so excited that I got the stem out (someone on ebay had a raleigh multi-tool, spanner and two hex sockets, and it made it so easy to get the stem out. I struggled for a couple of hours on saturday with my adjustable wrench and eventually gave up) that I ran to autozone to pick up some wd-40 so I could clean the thing.
A bike without a stem and without a front wheel:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...23-34-0450.jpg
Here is one reason why it needed a new stem:
Here it is with a new stem, but the front tire isn't adjusted:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v...38-33-0451.jpg
Turns out some SOB taped the front rim with duct tape:
There are deteriorating tape threads all over now, but I cleaned it off enough to put real tape on.
Here is a bike whose front hub has been cleaned and regressed and retaped without duct tape this time:
Next steps:
New shifter cable, since the old one doesn't reach all the way with the new stem on (you can see it just barely hangs on in the middle, there, I'll be riding in 3rd gear for a few days)
Clean up and relube back hub
Figure out why the seat is crooked
Do a more thorough cleaning, maybe OA front and rear hubs (assuming rear needs it, haven't cracked it open yet).
Figure out why the front tire is so low at that one point. I tried reseating it, but it didn't really stay in any other position than that. The rim seems true enough.
Put a kickstand on it maybe
Something that is really throwing me for a loop is how I can't get the front wheel off unassisted. I have to prise the forks apart while my boyfriend pulls on it to get the axel free. With my previous '65, it came out of the forks incredibly easily (which made it kind of hard to adjust the cones properly). Did Raleigh change their fork manufacturing somewhere in there? Also, if anyone has any good examples of front-hub hardware, I'd appreciate it. I really don't remember my old one having this sequence of nut washer fork cone hub cone fork washer nut, but I did have some parts left over when I finished it
senseless violence... why??I apologize in advance for the messiness of my apartment; all I have been thinking about is bikes lately for some reason...
It needs a new stem; someone had changed the handlebars, and the 15/16" holder was not cutting it.
A bike without a stem:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...34-38-0449.jpg
I was so excited that I got the stem out (someone on ebay had a raleigh multi-tool, spanner and two hex sockets, and it made it so easy to get the stem out. I struggled for a couple of hours on saturday with my adjustable wrench and eventually gave up) that I ran to autozone to pick up some wd-40 so I could clean the thing.
A bike without a stem and without a front wheel:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...23-34-0450.jpg
Here is one reason why it needed a new stem:
Here it is with a new stem, but the front tire isn't adjusted:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v...38-33-0451.jpg
Turns out some SOB taped the front rim with duct tape:
There are deteriorating tape threads all over now, but I cleaned it off enough to put real tape on.
Here is a bike whose front hub has been cleaned and regressed and retaped without duct tape this time:
Next steps:
New shifter cable, since the old one doesn't reach all the way with the new stem on (you can see it just barely hangs on in the middle, there, I'll be riding in 3rd gear for a few days)
Clean up and relube back hub
Figure out why the seat is crooked
Do a more thorough cleaning, maybe OA front and rear hubs (assuming rear needs it, haven't cracked it open yet).
Figure out why the front tire is so low at that one point. I tried reseating it, but it didn't really stay in any other position than that. The rim seems true enough.
Put a kickstand on it maybe
Something that is really throwing me for a loop is how I can't get the front wheel off unassisted. I have to prise the forks apart while my boyfriend pulls on it to get the axel free. With my previous '65, it came out of the forks incredibly easily (which made it kind of hard to adjust the cones properly). Did Raleigh change their fork manufacturing somewhere in there? Also, if anyone has any good examples of front-hub hardware, I'd appreciate it. I really don't remember my old one having this sequence of nut washer fork cone hub cone fork washer nut, but I did have some parts left over when I finished it
11-01-14, 12:16 PM
#5549
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Well I finally have something relevant add to this thread. My 1976 Raleigh Sports. New tires/tubes so far. Rides nicely except for a skip or bump when pedaling. With the right pedal at 6 o'clock, there's a skip or bump as the left pedal crosses 12 o'clock. Not sure if it's the hub or BB. Any ideas?
Last edited by BGBeck; 11-01-14 at 01:19 PM. Reason: spelling
11-01-14, 12:20 PM
#5550
Full Member
Lower picture "looks" like the crank arms do not line up. Could be a loose cotter is letting the rank move, and that is what you are feeling.