JetWave

While checking on the rear wheel on my PX-10, I notice the Cyclo- Competition 5 speed freewheel has some play and also very noisy. I took my wheel to a local bike shop & they do not have the right tool to remove it. I am going to try another shop later. If I was able to remove the freewheel, I want to replace it with a new one, it does not have to be original Cyclo, what other brands or option do I have? Thanks.

dbakl

I've always liked the Suntours.

big chainring 

Also check to see if the rear hub is french threaded or not. If its an early PX-10 it may be.

jimmuller 

I'm pretty sure I have a Suntour ProCompe with French thread, 14-26. May also have an Atom and another ProCompe with 14-28. Just not sure what's on what wheels at the moment.

pastorbobnlnh 

Can you post a picture of the removal notches? I have two Cyclo tools, a two notch and a four notch (says for Cyclo-Pans).

I recently restored and serviced a Cyclo 64, and I'd say it was not worth the effort because of the play. I did make the old bugger a bit quieter.



Please do check for French threading. I have a couple of French threaded freewheels available.

andyfloyd

I have a Cyclo Freewheel on my PX-10 and it is very noisy but it doesnt have any play in it. My PX-10 is a 76' btw. I think mine is french threaded as well.

dddd

To check for French threading on the hub, take your old freewheel and see if it fits on an English hub. A French freewheel won't fit all the way on an English or Italian hub without force, but will bind up a couple of turns before it seats fully. A French freewheel will indicate that you also have a French-threaded hub.

I rebuilt a Cyclo 64 freewheel for my Gitne TDF, and was able to reduce the freeplay. I don't recall, but I may have had to sand down the bearing cone slightly in order to get it to seat a little tighter against the bearings. I advise the use of blue LocTite on clean cone threads when re-tightening the cone, as they can come adrift in use, don't always stay put. Mine is a 14-26t 5-speed, and shifting is very positive using modern chain. These are good freewheels.

JetWave

Thanks for the info, it looks like the 2 slot type. I assume it is French thread since it says made in France, I guess I won't be able to find out until I remove it?

Grand Bois

Made in France does not necessarily mean French threads.

calstar 

Do you know if the 64 designate the year or something else? I have a 60s bike I'm trying to date that has this freewheel so if its 1964 that would eliminate earlier 60s.

thanks, Brian

dddd

64 designates the year that these came on the market.

I forget what the following number was, perhaps 1972 iir, when the next (Cyclo 72?) version appeared.

These would not have appeared on a pre-1964 bike though.

And Grand Bois is right, that a lot of French freewheels, perhaps most of them here in the US, have English, not French, threading.
An early 1970's PX10 would be French threaded, but by the late 1970s it would have been an English threaded French-built freewheel I believe.
And vise-versa, a lot of Campag Tipo hubs have French threading, as these were most widely used on popular Gitanes in the early 1970's.

One more check for French threading can be done using a regular French or Japanese axle, which will have 1mm thread pitch.
An english-threaded hub or bb cup (24tpi, 1.058mm pitch) won't mesh with the 1mm threads of a 1mm-pitch axle, but will sort of rock back and forth as either (but not both at the same time) end will mesh over only the width of 2-3 threads.

If the axle end (shown in the middle of the above-pictured freewheel) is on a Phil hub, the threading has to be English-threaded.

pastorbobnlnh 

Would you like to borrow my tool? I think it would work for you.

Looks as if you have enjoyed some nice French Corn at 14-21 for many years.



Maybe with a few years under the saddle you would benefit from something with a little more range (just in case ) but still retains something of that racing heritage you so enjoyed in years gone by? I built this for the racer who hates hills.



Or if you'd like to really impress your riding buddies, maybe go with a bit higher gearing?


(If you are wondering, it is 12-13-14-15-16-17)

I wonder if the "1" stamped on either side designates this as the first year of production and the first month? Just curious.

This one on ebay has a "4" and a "1."

This one on ebay has a "3" and a "1."

And the "Cyclo" and "Cyclo 72" don't appear to have any stamped numbers.

JetWave

Thanks for the offer for the tool, I am going to try a few more stores locally this weekend & see if I have any luck. If not, I may take up your offer. Thanks.

miamijim

[QUOTE=dddd;15316623]An early 1970's PX10 would be French threaded, but by the late 1970s it would have been an English threaded French-built freewheel I believe..[/QUOTE


As with many other things Peugeot take nothing for granted. 2 of my 1972 PX10's were English threaded while my '82 PH12 had a French freewheel.

dddd

Ain't that the truth, glad to hear some of the early hubs were/are English!
...and why I 'splained about doing the thread-gage thing with a hub axle.

I have carved up many a Suntour 2-prong freewheel remover for use with obscure freewheels.
One nice thing about corncob freewheels is that they typically don't get torqued on nearly as tight as their touring-oriented brethren, so can more easily be removed with an improvised remover.
...and even French freewheels still have right-hand threads! ;-)>

Peugeotlover

Here's the tool and the freewheel.
It should be easy to find one on ebay.

old's'cool

I guess they figured that out after the first generation of freewheel equipped French cyclists were rendered sterile after their left handed freewheels let go during a hill climb!

jimmuller 

That's only because they weren't torqued down tight enough.