arex

I'm not sure if this is where this post should go, but it seemed best.

I won an auction for a 1974 Raleigh Sports frame and fork, along with the bottom bracket and headset. No wheels or crank. I don't intend to restore it or anything, I plan on simply turning it into a fun and good bike to ride, using modern components where necessary or easier.

I have no experience with these British bikes, though. I've learned a lot from reading Sheldon Brown and the "For the Love of English 3-speeds" thread. I think I have a handle on a lot of this stuff, but I have some questions and I'd like some ideas and opinions on this project.

1. WHEELS - I'd like to go with a more modern wheel size, either 700C or a "proper" 26" rim. It's unclear to me which size is closer to the original 26x1-3/8 wheels. As I'll explain later, I may or may not go with a simple coaster brake, so wheel size may be irrelevant. However, if I do go with caliper brakes, are 26" rims only going to cause me problems with reaching the braking surfaces? Brown seems to indicate so, but I'm not sure. And, if I go with 700C, is the tire going to be so far up into the fork that I can't fit a reasonably chunky tire (1.75")? Is there a compelling reason to go with the original wheel size, outside of "correctness"?

2. BRAKES - I'd LIKE to go with a coaster brake for simplicity's sake and to eliminate cables. However, it's hilly around here and I'm kind of a fat bastard, so I'm a little worried about fade or overheating. I haven't been on a coaster-brake bike since I was a scrawny kid, so I don't have any recent experience with riding a coaster bike to know what it's like for me now. I haven't worked with caliper brakes in quite a while (only cantilever), so I'm hoping someone can recommend some decent-yet-economical calipers that should work with 700C rims and tires on this sort of frame. If I go with a 26" rim, I'm probably just going to go coaster.

3. REAR HUB - I've already eliminated the SA 2-speed kickback hub...too many people seem to have serious problems with them. I'd LIKE to go with the SRAM 2-speed hub (with or without a coaster brake; again, to eliminate another cable), but I worry about having a sufficient range of gearing with just two speeds (hills, fat), unless I use a big rear cog and bring the whole range down. The SA AW 3-speed hub has attractive gear ranges, but again, I'm trying to go simple. Also, if I get a SA 3-speed hub, should I go with a new unit (I'm having trouble finding one with an OLD under 130mm), or should I get an old one and clean it up? The reliability of the old ones sounds awesome, but it seems like a crapshoot buying an old one. The new AW hub kits are priced attractively, but I don't know what their reliability is like.

4. CRANK - I've also bought a spiffy old Crane Head crankset to match the cottered BB. I do have experience with cottered cranks, so I'm not too worried by that. Gearing is my concern, since there's limits on the size of the rear cog. Would I be better off in the long run replacing the BB and crank with something that has a replaceable variety of chainrings? The flexibility would be cool, but I could see that getting pretty pricey.

...or am I overthinking all of this? Please let me know.

Bianchigirll 

Sounds like a expensive undertaking.

lord_athlon

Not overthinking it at all. Just be smart in your choices and youll be fine.

JohnDThompson 

The original equipment was 590mm ERD rims. The Sun CR-18 is available in this size and in a variety of spoke drillings, e.g. 32, 36 and 40 are readily available. Otherwise, a 700C rim should fit through the frame, but you probably won't have clearance for mudguards.

Tektro makes a long-reach dual-pivot caliper that worked on my daughter's Sports with 26" (590mm) rims:



The older hubs should have the 120mm OLD you need, and should be quite usable. AW hubs are quite durable, even in the face of neglect; often simply flushing them out with a solvent and then oil is enough to get a faulty hub working again. And failing that, they're not hard to rebuild. There are also AWC hubs that combine the AW's 3-speed mechanism with a coaster brake. These don't suffer the reliability problems of e.g. the TWC hubs.

If you have the crank and bottom bracket already, it's probably more cost effective to change the gearing by replacing the rear cog on the hub. These are available from 13T up to 26T and don't cost much. You can fit a cotterless crank, but you'll need to use your present 1-3/8" x 26tpi cups and search for an appropriate spindle for whatever crank you select.

lord_athlon

Ive had 700cx28 armadillos on with the stock fenders.

arex

Maybe, yeah. There might be more economical ways of obtaining a bike, but I just wanted a good winter project.

I tried one of my spare 26" wheels, and it's far too small. I'd have to do some serious jury-rigging to make a brake work. So, yeah, I'll have to go with 29" wheels. I'll scout out some brakes next.

I will. I was trying to go minimalist, but it looks like that's just not a good idea.

I'll just go for a three-speed...seems most straightforward and, yes, minimal. I'm trying to build something different from my commuter.

A Phil Woods BB is supposed to work, but I cringe at the cost of one. I'll just rebuild what's there and stick with the stock crank, at least for now. I need to resist the urge to go crazy all at once.

arex

Going fenderless...none were included with the frame, and aftermarket ones would probably look weird.

I found some Weinmanns this afternoon..they look like they'll do the job.

I think I'll round up an old one...it'd be good to know how they go together, and it'll be far more likely to fit like it should.

I read somewhere else about doing the same thing. I'm not sure I'm that brave...but maybe I should be. I'll think about it.

arex

I went ahead and ordered a 25T cog today, just as a starting point. I'll make the stock crank work for now, and consider upgrades later. I may well be happy with it...besides, the cranes on the gear look cool.

arex

I'll be fenderless, but I was hoping to be able to fit a 700Cx40 or 45...it looks like that'd be pretty tight, so I'll have to see what else'll fit.

arex

I received the frame today. For forty years old, it looks really good. I'll clean it and wax it, but otherwise just rebuild the BB and headset.

John E

If it were mine, I would consider a hybrid powertrain based on a Sturmey-Archer hub. As others noted, skip the coaster brake -- remember the stores of "repack hill" in the early days of mountain bike development, when Breeze, Fisher, et al. quickly realized that coaster brakes were not up to the task at hand.

arex

What sort of hybrid?

lord_athlon

I have a set of 27x1 1/4 on another sports. You might get lucky

arex

Parts are arriving...I'm getting excited.