How Tight?!?!
11-08-14, 09:15 AM
#27
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06-29-15, 07:09 PM
#28
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Alrighty, the pedals are free. I ended up setting a 15mm open end wrench in the vise (tightly) and using the crank arm for leverage against the pedal. No heat necessary.
06-29-15, 07:15 PM
#29
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Last week I cut my thumb real bad on the chain rings trying to get pedals off the Raleigh. I used a hammer on the wrench after I cleaned all of the blood up. It worked.
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06-29-15, 07:18 PM
#30
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You can also go the other way and freeze those spindles with CRC's "Freeze Off"........
06-29-15, 07:47 PM
#31
Still learning
06-29-15, 07:52 PM
#32
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Shark teeth. I was leaning on the bike and slipped, somehow the chainring scraped up my calf from ankle to halfway. Looks like a grizzly took a swipe at me. Still have the scars.
06-29-15, 08:04 PM
#33
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Why go with half measures?
Who couldn't use a plasma cutter?
Who couldn't use a plasma cutter?
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In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
06-29-15, 08:58 PM
#34
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Well I won`t try that one again any time soon. LOL
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My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
06-29-15, 09:00 PM
#35
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My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
06-29-15, 10:13 PM
#36
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To avoid the shark teeth attack, I always put the chain on the large ring.
06-29-15, 10:15 PM
#37
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Sure do wish you posted that last week!! LOL
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06-29-15, 11:00 PM
#38
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06-29-15, 11:30 PM
#39
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
06-30-15, 12:09 AM
#40
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When I was taking apart the tiny, neglected LeMond I bought last winter, the cheap plastic pedals were rusted on there pretty damn solid. being a patient man, I applied some PB blaster and did a lot of tapping on the crank and spindle, then repeated that three or four days in a row. One pedal finally broke free, but the other one stripped under the weight of a fat caveman leaning on a 15mm wrench with a persuader bar.
What to do? I didn't want to just toss a decent Tri-Color crank set just because some dingus forgot to lube the pedal spindle before screwing it in.
What eventually worked was disassembling the pedal from the outside in, leaving just the spindle in place, and then breaking that out with a 24" pipewrench. Last resort type stuff, but it worked.
What to do? I didn't want to just toss a decent Tri-Color crank set just because some dingus forgot to lube the pedal spindle before screwing it in.
What eventually worked was disassembling the pedal from the outside in, leaving just the spindle in place, and then breaking that out with a 24" pipewrench. Last resort type stuff, but it worked.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
06-30-15, 01:00 AM
#41
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I place the crank horizontally on a block of wood, orient the wrench so that I can press the wrench handle down with my foot, give it a test press to make sure everything is secure and the wrench won't slip, then stand all my weight on the end of the wrench handle. Gradually the first time, if that doesn't work then suddenly. That is some 200 ft lb of torque and no pedal has ever failed to budge. If you sort of hop up then come down, you can probably generate 300 ft lb momentarily.
06-30-15, 03:17 AM
#42
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Campy Tool #1 ...
I broke down and bought one of these Park PW4 Pedal Wrenches. The round handle is large enough to comfortably stand on...
@Old Yeller, putting the chain on the large chainring is a great idea! Thanks.
verktyg
Chas.
I broke down and bought one of these Park PW4 Pedal Wrenches. The round handle is large enough to comfortably stand on...
@Old Yeller, putting the chain on the large chainring is a great idea! Thanks.
verktyg
Chas.
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Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
06-30-15, 06:33 AM
#43
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When I first started playing with pedals, I used tons of grease. I was trying to get out some pedals I put on in that period- Won't budge... Rats.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
06-30-15, 07:36 AM
#44
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Ryp,
Do I need to mail you a tube of anti seize (and a Park Tool pedal wrench, too,)for the reassembly? Dielectric bonding is not your friend, with the aluminum crank arms, and the steel pedal spindle, its a "lock" (sorry I couldn't resist.) Glad that you broke the pedals lose, make it easier next time, though, please.
Bill
Do I need to mail you a tube of anti seize (and a Park Tool pedal wrench, too,)for the reassembly? Dielectric bonding is not your friend, with the aluminum crank arms, and the steel pedal spindle, its a "lock" (sorry I couldn't resist.) Glad that you broke the pedals lose, make it easier next time, though, please.
Bill
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I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
06-30-15, 09:05 AM
#45
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Living in the land-o-rust, I have to deal with similar problems all the time. Propane is mostly useless for a heat source to free fasteners. Oxy/acetylene is the only way to go. If you are assembling anything you might take apart later, use never seize, especially if its steel into aluminum.
-sp
-sp
06-30-15, 10:03 AM
#46
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Ryp,
Do I need to mail you a tube of anti seize (and a Park Tool pedal wrench, too,)for the reassembly? Dielectric bonding is not your friend, with the aluminum crank arms, and the steel pedal spindle, its a "lock" (sorry I couldn't resist.) Glad that you broke the pedals lose, make it easier next time, though, please.
Bill
Do I need to mail you a tube of anti seize (and a Park Tool pedal wrench, too,)for the reassembly? Dielectric bonding is not your friend, with the aluminum crank arms, and the steel pedal spindle, its a "lock" (sorry I couldn't resist.) Glad that you broke the pedals lose, make it easier next time, though, please.
Bill
) tuneup on an Omni. Oh man, those early cars froze sparkplugs like crazy until it was remedied.
06-30-15, 10:05 AM
#47
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Living in the land-o-rust, I have to deal with similar problems all the time. Propane is mostly useless for a heat source to free fasteners. Oxy/acetylene is the only way to go. If you are assembling anything you might take apart later, use never seize, especially if its steel into aluminum.
-sp
-sp
06-30-15, 10:44 AM
#48
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And you can slip a pipe over the handle for extra leverage. I've done that with the crank clamped in a bench vise and always managed to break the pedals free.
06-30-15, 11:03 AM
#49
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I just had to use this process as well. Someone really gorilled the bike. I never did get the drive side crank arm off the spindle.
06-30-15, 11:45 AM
#50
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I opted to put the wrench in the vise and crank (sorry) on the crank. That way I didnt worry about gouging aluminum.