Yes, just pull the cranks and move on .

Believe me, I would if this were a Japanese crankset and didnt care about the pedals.

I will heat it and wrench it off. The steel pedal quill may have bonded to the aluminum.

Alrighty, the pedals are free. I ended up setting a 15mm open end wrench in the vise (tightly) and using the crank arm for leverage against the pedal. No heat necessary.

Last week I cut my thumb real bad on the chain rings trying to get pedals off the Raleigh. I used a hammer on the wrench after I cleaned all of the blood up. It worked.

You can also go the other way and freeze those spindles with CRC's "Freeze Off"........

Hope you are okay. You'll do anything to amke a red bike redder.

Shark teeth. I was leaning on the bike and slipped, somehow the chainring scraped up my calf from ankle to halfway. Looks like a grizzly took a swipe at me. Still have the scars.

Why go with half measures?


Who couldn't use a plasma cutter?

Well I won`t try that one again any time soon. LOL

OUCH!! Mine went pretty deep. Today was the first day the scab did not brake open at work. Almost healed.

To avoid the shark teeth attack, I always put the chain on the large ring.

Sure do wish you posted that last week!! LOL

All's well that ends well!

I've had a couple of near misses. I'll take this tip and file in the long-term memory for sure.

When I was taking apart the tiny, neglected LeMond I bought last winter, the cheap plastic pedals were rusted on there pretty damn solid. being a patient man, I applied some PB blaster and did a lot of tapping on the crank and spindle, then repeated that three or four days in a row. One pedal finally broke free, but the other one stripped under the weight of a fat caveman leaning on a 15mm wrench with a persuader bar.

What to do? I didn't want to just toss a decent Tri-Color crank set just because some dingus forgot to lube the pedal spindle before screwing it in.

What eventually worked was disassembling the pedal from the outside in, leaving just the spindle in place, and then breaking that out with a 24" pipewrench. Last resort type stuff, but it worked.

I place the crank horizontally on a block of wood, orient the wrench so that I can press the wrench handle down with my foot, give it a test press to make sure everything is secure and the wrench won't slip, then stand all my weight on the end of the wrench handle. Gradually the first time, if that doesn't work then suddenly. That is some 200 ft lb of torque and no pedal has ever failed to budge. If you sort of hop up then come down, you can probably generate 300 ft lb momentarily.

Campy Tool #1 ...



I broke down and bought one of these Park PW4 Pedal Wrenches. The round handle is large enough to comfortably stand on...




[MENTION=28558]Old Yeller[/MENTION], putting the chain on the large chainring is a great idea! Thanks.


verktyg

Chas.

When I first started playing with pedals, I used tons of grease. I was trying to get out some pedals I put on in that period- Won't budge... Rats.

Ryp,
Do I need to mail you a tube of anti seize (and a Park Tool pedal wrench, too,)for the reassembly? Dielectric bonding is not your friend, with the aluminum crank arms, and the steel pedal spindle, its a "lock" (sorry I couldn't resist.) Glad that you broke the pedals lose, make it easier next time, though, please.

Bill

Living in the land-o-rust, I have to deal with similar problems all the time. Propane is mostly useless for a heat source to free fasteners. Oxy/acetylene is the only way to go. If you are assembling anything you might take apart later, use never seize, especially if its steel into aluminum.

-sp

Being Mopar, gearhead type....it's in my toolbox. I first encountered the need for anti-seize back in '86 when doing a "simple" (simple does NOT mean easy....as a Marine, you know this ) tuneup on an Omni. Oh man, those early cars froze sparkplugs like crazy until it was remedied.

I got yer rust....right here!

And you can slip a pipe over the handle for extra leverage. I've done that with the crank clamped in a bench vise and always managed to break the pedals free.

I just had to use this process as well. Someone really gorilled the bike. I never did get the drive side crank arm off the spindle.

I opted to put the wrench in the vise and crank (sorry) on the crank. That way I didnt worry about gouging aluminum.