Are all bike lock cables created equally?
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Are all bike lock cables created equally (Kryptonite, Avenir, Bell, etc)?
Hi everyone,
I currently use a OnGuard Brute LS U-Lock, but am looking for a supplement cable for the seat and occasionally the front-tire if I'm away from my bike for only a few minutes. Regardless of thickness and length of cable, are all lock cables the same? I know the thickness will provide more protection, and I certainly plan to get the thickest cable I can get (12mm or 15mm), but wanted to know if there's a difference between Kryponite, Avenir, or Bell, since they all sell cables for different prices (even for the same thickness and length - with Bell being the cheapest).
Here's a sample of the Avenir one: https://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Tightro...7001839&sr=8-1
Please let me know if you have any insight on this. Thanks!
I currently use a OnGuard Brute LS U-Lock, but am looking for a supplement cable for the seat and occasionally the front-tire if I'm away from my bike for only a few minutes. Regardless of thickness and length of cable, are all lock cables the same? I know the thickness will provide more protection, and I certainly plan to get the thickest cable I can get (12mm or 15mm), but wanted to know if there's a difference between Kryponite, Avenir, or Bell, since they all sell cables for different prices (even for the same thickness and length - with Bell being the cheapest).
Here's a sample of the Avenir one: https://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Tightro...7001839&sr=8-1
Please let me know if you have any insight on this. Thanks!
#2
You gonna eat that?
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Do you know anything about the differences from the brands? i.e. does Kryptonite use a different steel or method in manufacturing their cables that make them stronger than something Bell sells? I guess anyone who knows anything about the differences in cable locks could have some insight too.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 903
Bikes: 2010 Kona Dr. Dew, Moose Bicycle XXL (fat bike), Yuba Mundo V3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I think I've seen some companies braid their cables, but I don't think that will make much difference to someone equipped to cut the cables. The metal-sheathed cables might provide a little more protection, but probably not enough to matter. Thieves would be using bolt cutters or rotary cutting wheels, neither of which will be stopped by braids or a thin metal sheath.
The only thing I can think of that might make a real difference is the Kevlar sheath some cables have, since Kevlar is supposed to be resistant to cutting.
The only thing I can think of that might make a real difference is the Kevlar sheath some cables have, since Kevlar is supposed to be resistant to cutting.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,442
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Here's my take with my background of many years in "campus" law enforcement, where bike theft is one of our constant problems. Cables are simply not as good as U-locks. Most all the bikes we have stolen are "secured" with cables.
Having cut quite a few of these myself (we sometimes have to seize bikes, or remove them from improper parking area, or just cut it loose because junior forgot the combination...)
A standard 16" bolt cutter, the type favored by bike theives, will open to about 1/2". Provided the cutter is sharp and well-adjusted, it will rather quickly cut anything that will fit inside the jaws.
So, the big, thick braided cables are better. They can be defeated, but it takes time. The theif has to "nibble" through the cable, which takes time and attracts attention.
The advantage of cables is that if the bolt cutter is not sharp and well-adjusted, they just sort of "mash" together and nothing gets cut.
So, if you must use a cable, get the widest, thickest one you can find.
Having cut quite a few of these myself (we sometimes have to seize bikes, or remove them from improper parking area, or just cut it loose because junior forgot the combination...)
A standard 16" bolt cutter, the type favored by bike theives, will open to about 1/2". Provided the cutter is sharp and well-adjusted, it will rather quickly cut anything that will fit inside the jaws.
So, the big, thick braided cables are better. They can be defeated, but it takes time. The theif has to "nibble" through the cable, which takes time and attracts attention.
The advantage of cables is that if the bolt cutter is not sharp and well-adjusted, they just sort of "mash" together and nothing gets cut.
So, if you must use a cable, get the widest, thickest one you can find.
#6
Albatross bars are cool!!
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 250
Bikes: 1984 Cannondale ST; 1975 Raleigh Grand Prix; mystery Nashbar tandem MTB; 1991 Paramount Series 20 PDG (in bits); 1984 Raleigh Record (in smaller bits, needs dropout repair); 1985 Raleigh Alyeska (wrecked, needs downtube repair)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times
in
9 Posts
That sounds logical. I was disappointed when I ended up cutting a cheapie Bell cable lock of mine several years ago - I was prepared for at least a little bit of a fight, as the thing was probably 7/16" thick overall, but it turned out most of that was rubber! No wonder the lock seemed so handy and flexible! The inner cable was tiny, comparable to a 12AWG copper lead as I recall, and took only a few non-determined minutes to file through it.