replace or repair? a bent cromoly fork...
#1
astrositupataphysicyclist
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replace or repair? a bent cromoly fork...
in a nutshell, thanks to mud/speed/not-fully-processed-premonition, i hit a large rock dead-on (not at an angle) and bent my fork so hard, the front tire is about .5 inches from the frame...
that was a long ride back to the car (especially when i took turns and my foot hit the knobbies).
i had a great ride...i was on my way out...then i made a split decision and now have a nice sore shoulder/neck/head. trek helmet definitely saved my noodles. at least the helmet is damaged.
anyways, best just to replace this rigid fork? unbelievably, the rim did not collapse! since the hit was dead-on head-on straight, the backwards bend (which seems to be right at the top of the fork) seems 'symmetrical'...the bike actually still rolls straight. but the wheel-span is definitely crunched.
this is not a matter of hardtail or even FS helping out...nor 29 inch wheels!
just a smooth (but freshly rained-on) mud 'bowl' that affected steering at maybe 15-20mph...couldn't turn just the slight amount needed. that rock came up fast. the tree behind it, too...
will try to get photos uploaded.
that was a long ride back to the car (especially when i took turns and my foot hit the knobbies).
i had a great ride...i was on my way out...then i made a split decision and now have a nice sore shoulder/neck/head. trek helmet definitely saved my noodles. at least the helmet is damaged.
anyways, best just to replace this rigid fork? unbelievably, the rim did not collapse! since the hit was dead-on head-on straight, the backwards bend (which seems to be right at the top of the fork) seems 'symmetrical'...the bike actually still rolls straight. but the wheel-span is definitely crunched.
this is not a matter of hardtail or even FS helping out...nor 29 inch wheels!
just a smooth (but freshly rained-on) mud 'bowl' that affected steering at maybe 15-20mph...couldn't turn just the slight amount needed. that rock came up fast. the tree behind it, too...
will try to get photos uploaded.
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Unless you're a framebuilder or you have a friend who is, it will cost more to fix it than replace it. Especially if you bent it back.
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just take it to a blacksmith and let him beat it back straight.
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astrositupataphysicyclist
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was a nice, converted all-terrain bike for this area's trails (brandywine/woodlawn)...especially since the country mud (back) and AT (front) Michelin's went on last weekend....
was wondering if the molecular/structural integrity would be compromised if heated back up and bent (i used to do some blacksmithing, but definitely not set up for it!)...heck, it's a $50 fork...but just a bummer.
wheel doesn't seat center anymore it seems
bike before tires were changed, bar-ends added...and high-impact with the boulder
was wondering if the molecular/structural integrity would be compromised if heated back up and bent (i used to do some blacksmithing, but definitely not set up for it!)...heck, it's a $50 fork...but just a bummer.
wheel doesn't seat center anymore it seems
bike before tires were changed, bar-ends added...and high-impact with the boulder
Last edited by UBUvelo; 08-29-09 at 02:02 PM.
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I had a similar mishap a couple of Fridays ago, with my rigid fork pushed back so that the tire couldn't clear the frame. Luckily for me the kind fellow who stopped his company truck to help me...
a.) Was an experienced MTB downhill racer who does his own wrenching, and
b.) Was carrying a pipe wrench in the truck.
We upended the bike, I held onto the frame, and he used the wrench to pull the fork back into a position where the wheel would roll again.
I expect I'll have to replace the fork at some point, but so far it rides OK. I lost a little paint, and expect that some rust might set in.
Kevin
(Saving my pennies)
a.) Was an experienced MTB downhill racer who does his own wrenching, and
b.) Was carrying a pipe wrench in the truck.
We upended the bike, I held onto the frame, and he used the wrench to pull the fork back into a position where the wheel would roll again.
I expect I'll have to replace the fork at some point, but so far it rides OK. I lost a little paint, and expect that some rust might set in.
Kevin
(Saving my pennies)
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Replace the fork. Not too expensive. Fork will be $100 or less plus install.
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astrositupataphysicyclist
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yeah, kevin, the pipe trick has worked before for me, but i did it on an old schwinn spitfire cruiser...!
i might give it try...i assume my LBS would rather just sell me a new one than 'fix' it with a pipe or pipe wrench
i might give it try...i assume my LBS would rather just sell me a new one than 'fix' it with a pipe or pipe wrench
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also, i suppose the rim is actually not all that 'true' anymore.
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a last question: though i slammed hard, is my unblemished rim simply great or is this a FAULTY fork since it bent so easily?
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https://www.bikeman.com/KON-P2MTN410.html
60 *****s.
60 *****s.
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https://www.bikeman.com/KON-P2MTN410.html
60 *****s.
60 *****s.
I'd recheck the rim and check the hub/hub axle.... that looks like quite a hit.
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yeah, that Kona might work...would like to see if my LBS can order it...
rim does seem fine (oddly). i admit, i might have fared better if i didn't take off that front brake...got too crazy in the weight-paranoia department....
rim does seem fine (oddly). i admit, i might have fared better if i didn't take off that front brake...got too crazy in the weight-paranoia department....
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the metal has fatigued it will never be the same or as strong...
you must replace... surly sells forks...
you must replace... surly sells forks...
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Why are you out on the trails running into rocks with a rigid-fork hybrid? There are mountain bikes for that kind of thing .
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back at it this weekend but with front suspension this time
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i know...i was sticking to known trails and this was all an experiment...i liked being able to do a sort of 'drift' method of hitting downhill, switchback gravel trails....keep the speed to a large degree on corners...but this sad even happened when i stepped outside the experiment