Confused about bottom brackets/cranks
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Confused about bottom brackets/cranks
My bike (link below) came with a pig heavy crankset that stands to save nearly a pound by getting a lighter one.
The frame description of my bike says BB30 but the tech specs say BB386. The next model up says BB30 in both places. I thought most frames within the same model family were the same dimensions, just different materials.
There are a ton of BB30 crank options but hardly any BB386 options. I might just stick with what I have but if I decide to upgrade, what are my choices?
F65x - Felt Bicycles
The frame description of my bike says BB30 but the tech specs say BB386. The next model up says BB30 in both places. I thought most frames within the same model family were the same dimensions, just different materials.
There are a ton of BB30 crank options but hardly any BB386 options. I might just stick with what I have but if I decide to upgrade, what are my choices?
F65x - Felt Bicycles
#3
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Looks like your frame is threaded FSA Bottom Brackets - FSA external bearing...
If so just pony up the 'cost no object' price of something with Carbon fiber and such , a complete replacement ...
If so just pony up the 'cost no object' price of something with Carbon fiber and such , a complete replacement ...
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Looks like your frame is threaded FSA Bottom Brackets - FSA external bearing...
If so just pony up the 'cost no object' price of something with Carbon fiber and such , a complete replacement ...
If so just pony up the 'cost no object' price of something with Carbon fiber and such , a complete replacement ...
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From the website you linked "Accepts standard PF30 bottom bracket cups but the wider shell requires a 386 EVO-compatible crankset"
There do not appear to be very many of those cranks... Gossamer (what I have) and the FSA SL-K Light ($600ish).
I'm equally confused how the next frame up, which I would assume is the same exact dimensions as my frame but just made from carbon, can accept a narrower crank than my frame.
There do not appear to be very many of those cranks... Gossamer (what I have) and the FSA SL-K Light ($600ish).
I'm equally confused how the next frame up, which I would assume is the same exact dimensions as my frame but just made from carbon, can accept a narrower crank than my frame.
Last edited by Alias530; 12-27-14 at 05:33 PM.
#6
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Aren't BB30 cranks like 68mm wide and BB386 are 86.5mm wide?
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#8
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IDK why, I'm not the engineer.
I see a Trend to make the BB axle an ever larger Tube , which started when a Small So California Maker hand Welded a Steel Hollow box arm crank
and welded
a Tubular spindle on the Right Arm.. ... Roger Durham,'Bullseye' .... His patent Lapsed ..
As the spindle gets bigger , the bearings get smaller , so moved outboard , or the BB shell size had to go Larger..
stiffer lighter, is a motivation..
I see a Trend to make the BB axle an ever larger Tube , which started when a Small So California Maker hand Welded a Steel Hollow box arm crank
and welded
a Tubular spindle on the Right Arm.. ... Roger Durham,'Bullseye' .... His patent Lapsed ..
As the spindle gets bigger , the bearings get smaller , so moved outboard , or the BB shell size had to go Larger..
stiffer lighter, is a motivation..
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FB4K - Every October we wrench on donated bikes. Every December, a few thousand kids get bikes for Christmas. For many, it is their first bike, ever. Every bike, new and used, was donated, built, cleaned and repaired. Check us out on FaceBook: FB4K.
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FB4K - Every October we wrench on donated bikes. Every December, a few thousand kids get bikes for Christmas. For many, it is their first bike, ever. Every bike, new and used, was donated, built, cleaned and repaired. Check us out on FaceBook: FB4K.
Disclaimer: 99% of what I know about cycling I learned on BF. That would make, ummm, 1% experience. And a lot of posts.
#10
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FSA BB30 vs BB386EVO ? A Visual Comparison & Weights
here's another article for you. it seems you can use some shimano and campy cranks too with the right adapters (down at the bottom of the article). good luck with this.
here's another article for you. it seems you can use some shimano and campy cranks too with the right adapters (down at the bottom of the article). good luck with this.
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FSA BB386EVO SR Adapter - FSA
If you want to be sure, buy the $20 adapter, remove your crankset, and test-fit it. If it dosen't fit, return it. If it does, order the GXP crankset.
BTW - this may be a topic for elsewhere, but IMO the seals on convential english bottom brackets (like GXP's) are MUCH better than on BB30's, and the bearings are less prone to contamination by water and debris. For bike that you intend to get muddy (like a cross bike), they are a better choice, and worth the slightly heavier weight and less stiffness.
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Looks like you can as well:
FSA BB386EVO SR Adapter - FSA
If you want to be sure, buy the $20 adapter, remove your crankset, and test-fit it. If it dosen't fit, return it. If it does, order the GXP crankset.
BTW - this may be a topic for elsewhere, but IMO the seals on convential english bottom brackets (like GXP's) are MUCH better than on BB30's, and the bearings are less prone to contamination by water and debris. For bike that you intend to get muddy (like a cross bike), they are a better choice, and worth the slightly heavier weight and less stiffness.
FSA BB386EVO SR Adapter - FSA
If you want to be sure, buy the $20 adapter, remove your crankset, and test-fit it. If it dosen't fit, return it. If it does, order the GXP crankset.
BTW - this may be a topic for elsewhere, but IMO the seals on convential english bottom brackets (like GXP's) are MUCH better than on BB30's, and the bearings are less prone to contamination by water and debris. For bike that you intend to get muddy (like a cross bike), they are a better choice, and worth the slightly heavier weight and less stiffness.
#17
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If you're thinking about going 1x, why not just keep the existing crank/bottom bracket set up and swap out the double rings for the appropriate single ring? You'd end up cutting a ton of weight by getting rid of all the front shifting parts you aren't going to use and it would simplify the whole process a bit. just a thought...
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If you're thinking about going 1x, why not just keep the existing crank/bottom bracket set up and swap out the double rings for the appropriate single ring? You'd end up cutting a ton of weight by getting rid of all the front shifting parts you aren't going to use and it would simplify the whole process a bit. just a thought...