Cleaning the cassette
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Cleaning the cassette
After giving my bike a complete "end of season" cleaning, i was not satisfied on how clean the cassette was. So I decided to buy a inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner (i can also used it for small car parts). So I thought i'd share the results.
This is already after I did my "normal" weekly cleaning.
This is after 5 minutes in the ultrasonic cleaner with 1:10 Simple Green and water.
$64 on ebay
This is already after I did my "normal" weekly cleaning.
This is after 5 minutes in the ultrasonic cleaner with 1:10 Simple Green and water.
$64 on ebay
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I've thought of that but i'm concerned that it will remove all the lube, even between the rollers and applying fresh lube might not get into the tight places and cause more wear.
Honestly, I have 4000 miles on my chain and while using the Park tool, it does drop in the .5, it does not drop in the .75.
I might just change it anyway.
Honestly, I have 4000 miles on my chain and while using the Park tool, it does drop in the .5, it does not drop in the .75.
I might just change it anyway.
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I've thought of that but i'm concerned that it will remove all the lube, even between the rollers and applying fresh lube might not get into the tight places and cause more wear.
Honestly, I have 4000 miles on my chain and while using the Park tool, it does drop in the .5, it does not drop in the .75.
I might just change it anyway.
Honestly, I have 4000 miles on my chain and while using the Park tool, it does drop in the .5, it does not drop in the .75.
I might just change it anyway.
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I've thought of that but i'm concerned that it will remove all the lube, even between the rollers and applying fresh lube might not get into the tight places and cause more wear.
Honestly, I have 4000 miles on my chain and while using the Park tool, it does drop in the .5, it does not drop in the .75.
I might just change it anyway.
Honestly, I have 4000 miles on my chain and while using the Park tool, it does drop in the .5, it does not drop in the .75.
I might just change it anyway.
Friend does that and gets 20,000 mi from his chains.
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If you dry the chain thoroughly (e.g. low temperature oven) after a water-based wash, you don't have to worry about the fresh lube penetrating all the nooks and crannies. Capillary action will pull it right in. Water that stays in the crevices could keep lube out, but if you get rid of that, you are golden.
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What is the make/model of your ultrasonic cleaner? Is it heated?
I've been looking at the one sold by Harbor Freight for $78.
Ultrasonic Cleaner - 2.5 Liter
I've been looking at the one sold by Harbor Freight for $78.
Ultrasonic Cleaner - 2.5 Liter
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What is the make/model of your ultrasonic cleaner? Is it heated?
I've been looking at the one sold by Harbor Freight for $78.
Ultrasonic Cleaner - 2.5 Liter
I've been looking at the one sold by Harbor Freight for $78.
Ultrasonic Cleaner - 2.5 Liter
Professional Stainless Steel 2L Ultrasonic Cleaner Heater Timer Bracket Jewelry | eBay
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Does anyone know how important those big O-rings are? Noise abatement? I don't get any noise from my older, solid Red cassettes with the appropriate chain choice (KMC). Could the perforated ones actually be noisier and require those rubber bands?
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What are the options when setting the timer?
I get annoyed at the maximum 480 seconds of the HF unit which almost always requires repeated settings to get the job done.
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And I thought I was being anal by flossing my cassette with a soapy rag while mounted on the wheel last weekend.
I know you work on cars and pulling a cassette/chain/whatever for weekly cleaning is probably easy and pleasing for you, but for me it seems that the total time spent cleaning and re-lubing bits and pieces of the drivetrain just isn't worth the slightly higher cost over the lifespan of a bike if you have to replace things a few thousand miles sooner.
As long as it looks pretty clean, shifts smoothly, and doesn't make any unusual noises I'm happy and that is accomplished with a wipe 'n lube every week or so on the chain and the occasional cog-floss and wipedown on the chainrings.
I know you work on cars and pulling a cassette/chain/whatever for weekly cleaning is probably easy and pleasing for you, but for me it seems that the total time spent cleaning and re-lubing bits and pieces of the drivetrain just isn't worth the slightly higher cost over the lifespan of a bike if you have to replace things a few thousand miles sooner.
As long as it looks pretty clean, shifts smoothly, and doesn't make any unusual noises I'm happy and that is accomplished with a wipe 'n lube every week or so on the chain and the occasional cog-floss and wipedown on the chainrings.
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And I thought I was being anal by flossing my cassette with a soapy rag while mounted on the wheel last weekend.
I know you work on cars and pulling a cassette/chain/whatever for weekly cleaning is probably easy and pleasing for you, but for me it seems that the total time spent cleaning and re-lubing bits and pieces of the drivetrain just isn't worth the slightly higher cost over the lifespan of a bike if you have to replace things a few thousand miles sooner.
As long as it looks pretty clean, shifts smoothly, and doesn't make any unusual noises I'm happy and that is accomplished with a wipe 'n lube every week or so on the chain and the occasional cog-floss and wipedown on the chainrings.
I know you work on cars and pulling a cassette/chain/whatever for weekly cleaning is probably easy and pleasing for you, but for me it seems that the total time spent cleaning and re-lubing bits and pieces of the drivetrain just isn't worth the slightly higher cost over the lifespan of a bike if you have to replace things a few thousand miles sooner.
As long as it looks pretty clean, shifts smoothly, and doesn't make any unusual noises I'm happy and that is accomplished with a wipe 'n lube every week or so on the chain and the occasional cog-floss and wipedown on the chainrings.
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Taking the cassette off, dropping it into an ultrasonic cleaner and putting it back on has to be easier than flossing.
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I know you work on cars and pulling a cassette/chain/whatever for weekly cleaning is probably easy and pleasing for you, but for me it seems that the total time spent cleaning and re-lubing bits and pieces of the drivetrain just isn't worth the slightly higher cost over the lifespan of a bike if you have to replace things a few thousand miles sooner.
Easy enough to drop a finer strainer inside the provided one.
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Thanks, gonna grab one now.
I've taken my cassette off a couple of times, and always worry I am putting it on too tight. Do you use a torque wrench?
I've taken my cassette off a couple of times, and always worry I am putting it on too tight. Do you use a torque wrench?
#19
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So... Err... What's with the obsession with cassette cleanliness?
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OP was just sharing something he found that does a great job and we were discussing, that's all. The device cleans more than cassettes and the OP mentioned using it for car parts as well.
That hardly makes for an obsession.
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There is zero basis for assuming anyone is obsessed with anything.
OP was just sharing something he found that does a great job and we were discussing, that's all. The device cleans more than cassettes and the OP mentioned using it for car parts as well.
That hardly makes for an obsession.
OP was just sharing something he found that does a great job and we were discussing, that's all. The device cleans more than cassettes and the OP mentioned using it for car parts as well.
That hardly makes for an obsession.
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I'm sure someone else will chime in with real advice, but I'm pretty sure it's hard to exceed the max specified torque on cassette lockrings by hand using a normal lockring tool and wrench. Then again, you want to be able to get it off in the future without breaking anything, so don't kill yourself trying to tighten it, but it should be on really, really firm.