rpenmanparker 

Carbon-Ti (no really, I mean it) makes an excellent 6 g expander plug. You can Google it and buy it online. Saves at least 1 oz or 29 g. Not too pricey.

Maelochs

Thank you, sir.

BigPoser

Is this the one?

Expander X-Plug, For Your Headset Cap Mtb

HazeT

Well, I've also heard that the other reason is that the crossed cable has a much smoother angle which reduces the cable friction and can* provide better shifting.
My first bike I did without crossing, but I'm considering intentionally crossing it on this one to see if I feel any difference.
I say intentionally because the first time I criss crossed it like 15 times inside the down tube by accident, which gave a cool effect that a single shifter would shift front and rear simultaneously

rpenmanparker 

Yes. I think it is on ebay.

Maelochs

has anyone here had a tough time setting up an Ultegra derailleur on a Workswell 066? The cable comes up almost in line with the derailleur arm, and no matter which way I flip the converter or how I mount the derailleur on the braze-on, it doesn't have enough angle to pull the thing onto the top ring. This is seriously getting annoying ... and the rest of the Internet has had nothing useful to say so far.

rpenmanparker 

What is a "converter". My Red was no problem. The cable does exit the BB shell through a small hole in the top equipped with a rubber grommet, right?

rpenmanparker 

Picture?

raisinberry777

Whilst not a Workswell 066 owner is this your first time setting up a Shimano 11-speed front derailleur? They need a lot of cable tension to get over to the big ring, which can be difficult without an in-line cable adjuster. My suggestion is to wind in the low adjustment screw, attach cable quite tightly (i.e. pull it taut with pliers when attaching) and then wind the low adjustment screw back to its appropriate place (thus adding more tension in the process). That should certainly give you the tension necessary to get to the big ring. Without an in-line adjuster it may require a bit of luck to get it exactly right.

@rpenmanparker - the converter is part of the new generation Shimano FDs (9000, 6800, 5800, 4700, R3000) - it changes the angle of the shift inner based on how it comes out of the frame, as part of setting it up part of the FD is changed to one side or another based on the angle of the inner cable coming up to the FD. Sounds like cable tension is the issue here though, not the converter setting.

If the converter is set to the wrong side it will should not prevent movement to the big ring, but the shift does not feel as smooth, the amount of force needed to change rings will feel inconsistent throughout the shift.

Maelochs

Thanks very much.

yes, this is my first Shimano 11-speed. I looked up everything I could find on the Internet to try to get it right, and it will shift by hand---that is, if I move the derailleur manually it will pop distinctly from the low to high range. We must be talking a Lot of cable tension (I read that also, but I guess we are talking a whole new realm of "tight.")

I will try this, and also will rig an in-line adjuster----I had planned to anyway eventually. I was hoping to put it off because it means rerouting the internal cables while the BB is installed, but I will find a way around it.

Hope this works ... I have been working hard not to get so frustrated I burn my house down and claim the bike on my insurance, but that point is getting close ...

raisinberry777

The problem lies in your cable routing - it's going the wrong way round. Follow the instructions in the Shimano Dealer's Manual, linked below:

https://si.shimano.com/php/download.p...002-05-ENG.pdf

Look at the diagram at the top of page 14. It makes a kind of S-bend around the converter pin, and once complete, should look a bit like the picture below:

rpenmanparker 

It actually looks like the cable should be routed clockwise instead of counter and end up behind the pin. That would apply more force to the FD arm relative to the total force applied at the lever. But I see how Shimano probably intends it to go counter.

Maelochs

I downloaded the dealer's manual and service manual and user's manual and everything else Shimano offered, and also scoured the web for every available tip or hint. Event the Shimano guy in one article admitted that sometimes the answer for certain frames was unorthodox ... (Technical FAQ: Shimano 11-speed front derailleur cable setup | VeloNews.com)

The manual definitely suggests an S curve and running the cable along the outside of the pinch bolt. Possibly, if I can pull the cable tight enough ...

In any case, everything I see here corresponds well with everything I read online, so I guess the answer is to figure a way to get more cable tension ... I didn't add inline barrel adjusters, and if I do now, with the BB already in, that will be another trial ... but I can do it. I just want to take the thing out for a ride without a lot of headaches, but here in the real world ....

Oh, and thanks very much for all the help. Appreciated.

Steve B.

Yes, inline adjusters would be useful to deal with cable set after some use, especially as the front has no barrel adjuster at the derailer.

There's also this little orange plastic thingy that Shimano used to provide with the front derailer that I did not get with my 5800. It essentially sat between the pivots of the derailer and the seat tube while you tighten the derailer cable. Kind of pulls the derailer out from the frame a bit.

When I read the instructions for my new 5800, my head just spun at the cable angle adapter they have you use to set the cable attachment location. After some on-line research I mostly just decided to set the cable the way I've always done, with the attitude of it'll work or not.

Thus I used the orange thingy, set the barrel adjuster mostly all the way in, wrapped the cable CW around the bolt, and ran the shifter. It worked like a charm and is the best shifting front index system I've ever used. Pics as BTW are not of a 5800 derailer obviously, I used the bike not stored to show you the position of the thingy.

raisinberry777

I'd be very surprised if you couldn't get enough tension using the limit screw trick as long as the cable is set up in the manner suggested by the manual.

clubber

Myself being one who sometime gets frustrated , I work hard at trying to stay composed and patient . This is would be my first and my important recommendation.

I want to provide this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfBiXgf8Jx and this as 2 of the best videos that shows how to setup (SPECIFICALLY) the Ultegra FD. With the OBVIOUS exception in the first video being the clamp-on seat tube mounting bracket as opposed to the braze-on bracket that WE have with our FD.

I used these 2 videos to help when I was having trouble getting my triple FD adjusted on my Trek Pilot.

I truly believe someone up there hates me and that's why I have been tested with what has to be one of the most HATED FD's to adjust. And I DON'T want to hear from those of you that say how easy it is to set these up because whoever you are, you are NOT MOST NORMAL people like myself who SUFFER having to deal what should be a very simple device.

I (like most people) get caught up in jerking the heck outta the cable in an attempt to get more tension and end up TRASHING the cable when what the focus should really be on is to adjust the FD FIRST without even attaching the cable.

Again CAREFULLY watch the videos (specifically the first one) and try to be patient because trust me I've been in the same boat as you are in right now and the LAST thing you want to hear is how easy it should be.

I hope this helps for no other reason than to take your mind off the bike for a few minutes to notice how freaking LONG-WINDED Clubber is

Maelochs

Still waiting on some instructional videos from ... You.

Thanks very much for these.

Maelochs

Well ... I cranked the inner limit all the way in and yanked the cable with pliers and now I have a working front derailleur. Much thanks to all---especially those of you who helped.

Now to tackle the rear ...

rpenmanparker 

And then unscrewed the low limit back to where it belonged I hope.

Maelochs

Yeah, the front end works really well now ... and now the chain doesn't want to stay on the lower jockey wheel in the back. Not sure if it is a bent derailleur hanger or what .... more troubleshooting = more frustration but also more education.

HazeT

Do you have those "smart" link that makes remove the chain easy? If so properly set the limit screws before putting tension on it.
May be you created a stiff link while playing around? carefully check it.

cthenn

I hope this is not too broad a question, but can someone post a succinct recap of the BB choices for the 066? My main bike is a Trek, and I've worked on their "BB90" before, but I have no idea about PF-30 and BB-30 and BB-Right and so on. I'm actually getting confused reading over all the previous threads on these frames when it comes to the BB. It seems some have used the OEM BB that comes with the frame, while others have used an aftermarket BB, and others have used an entirely different BB. Some seem to fit outboard of the BB shell, while others are contained within? Some installations need Loctite, some do not? I'm most likely going to go with an Ultegra crank (24mm spindle), so does that limit the choices?

I'm just trying to get an idea of what the options are, and their installation methods. I'm hoping if someone can simplify the pros and cons, or compatibility of different BB options, that would help me, and maybe other builders.

rpenmanparker 

The only BB choice from Workswell for that frame is BBright. That is a PF30 (30 mm oversize diameter, overwide 79 mm wide) shell. The extra width compared to regular PF30 is all on the non-drive side. If you just press in PF30 bearings/cups, you can only use a BBright crank. You can never use a regular BB30 or PF30 crank, because they are just not wide enough to make it across the overwide shell.

If you press in PF30 bearings/cups and add an outboard spacer on the drive side, you can use an FSA BB386 crank (86.5 mm wide and 30 mm in diameter). While it seems that spacer should be 11 mm wide, I found that a 9 mm spacer barely fit for BB386.

Then you can use an adapter BB instead of just the plain PF30 bearings/cups. The supplied adapter or one from several other sources converts is pressed in with extra width (outboard of the shell) on the drive side to balance the BB and make it like a screwed in outboard BB in a BSA/68 shell. That converts the shell to compatibility with 24 mm crank spindles that are 86.5 mm wide. So that would be any crank intended for BSA shells + outboard, screwed in bearings/cups like the Shimano and FSA standard cranks.

Anything you use must be pressed in, because the shell has no threads. In some cases you press two halves in separately. In other cases the adapter presses itself in when you screw two halves together in the middle where they are threaded. You just twist the two halves together where the threads in the middle take up the width until they are snug in the shell. No matter what the adapter manufacturer recommends (or doesn't recommend), I believe that Loctite 609 is a must be used to prevent creaking. That is just the way that pressed in BBs are. And even the screwed together adapters are pressed in at the contact surfaces with the BB shell. So Loctite is absolutely required.

The OEM adapter is damn nice, with captured bearing cartridges for less chance of creaking. For Shimano you don't have to look any further. Easy-peasy. Only problem is, it is a bit on the heavy side.

clubber

Having just install an aftermarket BB by Wheels Mfg PF30 on the recommendation of a few 066 owners that have posted in this thread I have diligently been working on videos of my complete start to finish build using a Shimano Ultegra 6800 groupset.

I have been experiencing technical difficulties and still need to edit for sound but a I would be happy to send you the video installing my BB using Loctite 7649 primer and 609 adhesive using a Wheels Mfg press 7.

Now a warning to those who intend to use this method of installing this type of press fit BB: It was a BIT@H to press into my BB shell using NO lube or grease.

The only lubrication is the Loctite 609 that you want to liberally use on both the BB cups and bb shell inside edge that will make contact with the cups. I had to use a deep well socket and breaker bar to crank (individually) the 2 sides of the BB the remaining 2mm to make FLUSH contact with the BB shell. Again it is ESSENTIAL that you ge both sides of the BB FLUSH against the BB shell to prevent creaking.

PM me and I can email the vid to you or if you can wait a couple of days I hope to have it done by Monday.

Steve B.

Boy, that sounds like it was a lot of fun.

I knew there was a reason I went BSA