dalava

A word of caution if you are thinking about the DT Swiss's asymmetric rims and intend to run tubeless; they are hard to seal because of the location of the holes are drilled.

Defyme

Sorry, missed the budget part...my bad.

jeffrbake

So I have been doing my preliminary research, and I have found some (what I think are) great options!

Part list so far:
- 28x32 Easton R90 SL Disc Alloy Road Rim
- DT Swiss 240S (front and back)
- PILLAR 12mm brass nipple (blue, some sort of nano coting, as you can't anodize brass, so I am told)
- Shimano Deore XT SM-RT86 6-Bolt 160mm IceTech rotor
- Blue anodized titanium bolts for rotor mount

Rim tape undecided.

Still figuring out spokes. I am leaning towards sapim-leader j-bend white 14g spokes.

Working on calculations for spoke length right now, man it is complicated!

Trying to get a tire that has either blue or white elements. Not the most important thing, as I do not want to sacrifice quality, but it would be nice. Knowing this will be one of the things that is most often replaced, want to make sure supply is easy to find.

On that note, the rim is 700c and 19.5mm inner rim width, 24mm outer width. Does this mean I need a tire width of 28cm? Or can I safely use a smaller tier width? (Around 25mm)

gsindela

Can't go wrong with Easton or DT Swiss. Nice.

joejack951

Why brass and not aluminum? Brass is SO heavy Aluminum is fine as long as you lubricate your spoke threads (helps with brass, too).

Why a heavy straight gauge spoke? At least go double butted, if not CX-Ray (they come in white I believe).

It shouldn't be that hard to calculate spoke lengths. DT Swiss has a calculator on their website which will have the 240 hub info built-in if nothing else. Then you just need number of spokes and crosses, rim ERD, and offset (if any).

jeffrbake

Thanks for the input on spokes.

Not too concerned about the weight difference between the brass and aluminum. We are talking a difference of 20 grams per wheel.

I found the DT calculator. Only thing I am not 100% sure about is the correct ERD for the rims, as Easton uses ERD++. Don't think it will make much of a difference, as the spoke length is the same if the ERD is between 583-584 (meaning the nipple height is between 1.5mm and 2mm).

dalava

I listed the Easton ERD on my post... and that's what I used to calculate my spoke length for the DT Swiss 350 hubs. They should be the same for the 240 hubs.

jeffrbake

I think when it comes down to it, a 3mm difference in ERD will probably not have too much effect in the end. We are talking 281mm to 282mm with ERD of 580 and 583 respectively. What does seem odd is that your spoke lengths are calculated at 277mm. Did you use the DT calculator? Could jut be the slight differences in sizes if so. I do plan to check the math there on a different calculator to ensure proper length.

joejack951

Number of spokes and number of crosses will change the required spoke lengths. If you are going with 3X vs. his 2X wheels that would explain the length discrepancy. He also built 28/28H F/R and I think you were planning 32/32 or 28/32.

jeffrbake

Curious, what size tires did you use on the Easton rims?

dagray

At 360 pounds of rider weight I went with the Rolf Prima "Vigor RS OEM" wheels. These are over your budget, but are light, stiff, and I run tubeless tires.

I love these wheels as due to their stiffness they don't egg when I ride which causes way less rolling resistance and a couple miles per hour speed increase.

Also when they took a wheel with the tire mounted and inflated and threw it off a three story building into an asphalt parking lot and the wheel was just as true as the day it was made sold me on them (these wheels can take some abuse, and the roads around here are old uneven country blacktop).


Good luck on your wheel search.

zymphad

I haven't seen cheap wheels from wheelbuilders with the specs I was looking for. So I just bought, FSA Vision has the perfect wheels for me.

If H+ Son for example made 25mm wide rim, 35mm+ deep ALU rims, then I would consider wheelbuilder, maybe.

Carbonfiberboy 

If you're going to buy the goodies anyway, of course build them yourself. You'll know the quality of the build more intimately. The best wheels I've had I built myself.

For parts, I just go to bikehubstore, buy everything there, and let them calculate the spoke lengths. They are totally worth supporting IMO. I've been using Kinlin XC279 and CX-Ray with brass nipples and like the result. Which hubs I think depend on the intended use, but those rims and spokes will work for anything.

dalava

I have both the Schwalbe G-One Speed 700x30 and Panaracer Gravel King SK 700x35. The Schwalbes are better if you have more pavement than gravel, and the Panaracer GK is awesome in pretty any terrain, but they do roll noticeably slow on pavement.

dalava

I use the spoke length calculator from Prowheelbuilder.com. I like it better than the DT Swiss one.