The Cult of CAAD...
#7626
Fixie Infamous
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: SF
Posts: 10,474
Bikes: 2007 CAAD Optimo Track, 2012 Cannondale CAAD10, 1996 GT Force restomod, 2015 Cannondale CAADX
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It's not winter roads, it's just bad installation. BB30 really complains when not installed properly.
#7627
Fixie Infamous
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: SF
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Bikes: 2007 CAAD Optimo Track, 2012 Cannondale CAAD10, 1996 GT Force restomod, 2015 Cannondale CAADX
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Here's some tool porn for you guys if you're nerdy like me. This is my BB30 installation setup.
OH, when you all get bearings, switch them to angular contact bearings. They are much better for bb applications. They're Enduro 71806's. Should be about 20 bucks for the pair.
OH, when you all get bearings, switch them to angular contact bearings. They are much better for bb applications. They're Enduro 71806's. Should be about 20 bucks for the pair.
#7628
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Henrico, Virginia
Posts: 166
Bikes: 1978 Jack Taylor "Tour of Britain", 2010 Cannondale CAAD9-4, 2013, Cannondale Supersix Evo Red Racing, 1969 Jack Taylor Ladies "Tourist" (wife's), 2010 Specialized Dolce Sport (wife's)
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Yep, that's what I mean. Campag BB30 over torque is a con. Believe me I'm the biggest Campag fan ever... Since I was a kid in the 80's but this 'BB30 standard' claim is a joke. Forgive me if I got something wrong but I posted my actual experience, having the parts there in front of me, I'm a very proficient bike tech. I took the 'over torque' chainset back to the shop and just purchased the adapters for my existing Campag chain-set. Sorted : )
That was about a thousand miles ago and no problems at all. My friend however, who still has the BB30's is on second set of bearings in the same time and has creaking issues with the second set already.
That was about a thousand miles ago and no problems at all. My friend however, who still has the BB30's is on second set of bearings in the same time and has creaking issues with the second set already.
#7629
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Henrico, Virginia
Posts: 166
Bikes: 1978 Jack Taylor "Tour of Britain", 2010 Cannondale CAAD9-4, 2013, Cannondale Supersix Evo Red Racing, 1969 Jack Taylor Ladies "Tourist" (wife's), 2010 Specialized Dolce Sport (wife's)
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Ack. Forgot the link:
https://fairwheelbikes.com/c/forums/t...-torque-ultra/
https://fairwheelbikes.com/c/forums/t...-torque-ultra/
#7630
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Wild and Wonderful
Posts: 99
Bikes: 2014 CAAD10-3 2000 LeMond BA
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#7631
Semper Fi
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Unless you have really doused things while riding and gotten a good bit of crud in the BB 650 miles is pretty short time frame for them to go bad. They come with less grease than I like when they are built and assembled and unless your LBS really goes through things thoroughly the BB can need lubing early. If it is trashed, and you feel that is the case, you might want to take it in when the shop opens back up. Servicing the BB isn't difficult or time consuming, you need the correct size hex wrench to remove the crank spider/arm assembly and use a good, clear diagram of the entire BB so you can reinstall the parts correctly. Better yet, take some digital pictures of things as you go so you have a reference for the reassembly order, if you decide to look in to what is going on.
But, I think its a warranty item with that few miles, don't screw around with things and have the LBS say that you messed it up your self. Best of luck.
Bill
But, I think its a warranty item with that few miles, don't screw around with things and have the LBS say that you messed it up your self. Best of luck.
Bill
__________________
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
#7632
Member
The shop spoke to the distributor who confirmed that I needed to fit some press in cups to make it work with BB30 frame.
also please note this product... https://www.wiggle.co.uk/campagnolo-over-torque-bb-cups/
Last edited by chaser97; 02-25-14 at 01:02 AM.
#7634
Senior Member
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Bikes: 2014 CAAD10-3 2000 LeMond BA
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Thank you all for your advice and help. Now I get the fun of having to deal with a LBS that didn't actually sell me the bike. I purchased it while I was home on Christmas break in NJ, but am at school in WV. I'll let you all know how it goes.
#7635
Fixie Infamous
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: SF
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Bikes: 2007 CAAD Optimo Track, 2012 Cannondale CAAD10, 1996 GT Force restomod, 2015 Cannondale CAADX
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Your local Cannondale dealer shouldn't give you an issue with the warranty process.
#7636
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You might want to give your bike a good cleaning. And if washing it use low pressure running water from your garden hose, and wash from the top down. Then dry it of, i use compress air to dry mine with. then a detailer for the paint. lube your chain, and check your RD to make sure its not out of adjustment and you FD as well. Also with 650mi you need to check your chain to make sure its not stretch. Because if you ride with a stretch chain you will end up wearing out the cassette and chainring. If still hearing the sound have your LBS check the BB30 bearing, doubt thats it though because they usually make a popping sound when the bearing is bad. also make sure all the bolts are tight and none came undone.
#7637
Senior Member
I'm itching for spring to come, so I can ride my 2013 Team CAAD 10.....
#7639
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
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Did a 100 klm today in 86deg f temp
0n my 2014 CAAD 10 105
0n my 2014 CAAD 10 105
#7640
Senior Member
Cannondale N+3
The image below is a photoshop mockup of the bike build as it's intended to be, or close to it. Found the frame on eBay, a 2010 Caad 9, for my wife. Haven't seen this particular frame/color pattern before. I hope she likes it when it's all done.
The image below is a photoshop mockup of the bike build as it's intended to be, or close to it. Found the frame on eBay, a 2010 Caad 9, for my wife. Haven't seen this particular frame/color pattern before. I hope she likes it when it's all done.
#7642
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Hey guys. Posted a few days ago about but a used caad 10
checked out the bike and it looks in good condition. Maybe needs a new chain.
Need some advice please on best course.
2011 caad 10 with SRAM force used for 1100$cad
or a new 2013 10 with 105 for 1450$cad.
I thinking of going new as the. I get piece of mind with the warranty.
Any thoughts. Please and thank you.
checked out the bike and it looks in good condition. Maybe needs a new chain.
Need some advice please on best course.
2011 caad 10 with SRAM force used for 1100$cad
or a new 2013 10 with 105 for 1450$cad.
I thinking of going new as the. I get piece of mind with the warranty.
Any thoughts. Please and thank you.
#7644
Semper Fi
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What condition is the 2011 Force in? For a 3 year old bike it is high, Force is a good group set but 105 is pretty much an Ultegra with a few more ounces and you aren't getting a Shimano crank set on a CAAD unless it had the adapter installed, new it won't. If the LBS is a good one, the 2014 fits you correctly and you can go the price I'd stick with that one. Just my thoughts, as you asked. Best of luck with either one.
Bill
Bill
__________________
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
#7645
Senior Member
I agree with qcpmsame, I'd spend the extra $350 in a heartbeat for the new 2013 over the 2011. Those are both good prices considering they're CAD$. Take 20% off for US dollar equivalent.
#7646
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Beautiful Long Beach California
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#7647
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Thanks for the input, the main reason i'm thinking new is for the warranty but i'm not sure if im just being overly cautious. I'm really like the carbon cranks on the 2011. I guess the reason i was thinking the 2011 was for the SRAM which i always wanted to put some serious miles into and i like a lot of the guys on here like to make things my own. So with the old one i can spend the difference on making it my own.
Thanks again
Thanks again
#7648
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What condition is the 2011 Force in? For a 3 year old bike it is high, Force is a good group set but 105 is pretty much an Ultegra with a few more ounces and you aren't getting a Shimano crank set on a CAAD unless it had the adapter installed, new it won't. If the LBS is a good one, the 2014 fits you correctly and you can go the price I'd stick with that one. Just my thoughts, as you asked. Best of luck with either one.
Bill
Bill
The 2011 looks to be in good shape, some wear on the chain but still life it, the chap had the frame covered with those paltic squares to prevent cable rub which says to me he looked after it, and he had to put air the tires for me to ride it as he hadn't used to since last summer.
Last edited by Alanswalker; 02-28-14 at 02:26 AM.
#7649
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Hey Alan,
Chain wear might mean that the cassette and/or front gears might also have some wear. Did you check how much stretch the chain has? If it’s out of rage then you might be on the market for a lot more part replacements than just a chain. Get a chain wear gauge tool for $10 and check the chain wear. That info might be fruitful to your decision making.
The 105 would be new, under warranty, minimum basic fit or more, at least one year of basic tuning and could probably deal in a set of Keo or 105 pedals for free. Plus you might get 20% off anything else you buy in that store. That’s what I did with my Rival.
Chain wear might mean that the cassette and/or front gears might also have some wear. Did you check how much stretch the chain has? If it’s out of rage then you might be on the market for a lot more part replacements than just a chain. Get a chain wear gauge tool for $10 and check the chain wear. That info might be fruitful to your decision making.
The 105 would be new, under warranty, minimum basic fit or more, at least one year of basic tuning and could probably deal in a set of Keo or 105 pedals for free. Plus you might get 20% off anything else you buy in that store. That’s what I did with my Rival.
#7650
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
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Questions....Replacing my stem and this little piece is no longer in reach of the cap on top. How do I get it out? Or do I just get it out with what ever works
And when I go to tighten everything down, how do I prevent this?
I am not sure if I am Googling it right, but I got no results related to this.
No rush on the response, I am about to step into work.
Last edited by Team Sarcasm; 02-28-14 at 04:01 PM.