Bladed spokes vs standard, is there a noticeable difference ?
12-22-14, 08:24 AM
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Not noticeable as a rider, but it shows up on wind tunnel results.
I built my race wheels with bladed spokes, but don't care much about what I ride on for non-race wheels.
I built my race wheels with bladed spokes, but don't care much about what I ride on for non-race wheels.
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12-22-14, 08:28 AM
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12-22-14, 08:56 AM
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The operative word is noticeable, and the answer is no.
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12-22-14, 09:05 AM
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The difference is very noticeable when the wheels are being built.
12-22-14, 09:07 AM
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I did a blind ride comparison once, and well, being blinded, you can imagine how badly that worked out.
But seriously...a noticeable difference? I do wonder if there would be any differences in feel when doing back-to-back comparisons of wheels built the same aside from spokes? Wheels do feel differently, right, but how much of feel is attributable to spokes? I don't know.
But seriously...a noticeable difference? I do wonder if there would be any differences in feel when doing back-to-back comparisons of wheels built the same aside from spokes? Wheels do feel differently, right, but how much of feel is attributable to spokes? I don't know.
12-22-14, 09:10 AM
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I believe CX-Rays are better in the wind tunnel, but they are not quite bladed. They are more like tear drop shaped.
12-22-14, 09:23 AM
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The squirrels don't suffer as much with bladed spokes.
12-22-14, 09:26 AM
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My thought exactly! But is having a handle to prevent spoke twist worth an extra $2 each? Now that is the question.
12-22-14, 10:19 AM
#16
Ride it like you stole it
When I fist started building my own wheels, (predating CX-Rays) I had used Hoshi blades and Wheelsmith AE14 oval spokes. Then switched to CX-Rays almost exclusively. After a few sets of wheels, other than the initial building, I did not feel like there was much point in spending so much for spokes and now I either use Sapim Laser, DTSwiss Revolution or DTSwiss Competition, depending on my target usage. I have not missed the oval/bladed spokes one bit while riding.
For the young whippersnappers that don't know about Hoshi, here is an image of their profile. It was the only way to build a bladed wheel without slotting the hubs.
For the young whippersnappers that don't know about Hoshi, here is an image of their profile. It was the only way to build a bladed wheel without slotting the hubs.
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12-22-14, 10:21 AM
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So how which spokes are the hardest to build with? Bladed spokes or the 1.5mm double butted spokes? Something else?
12-22-14, 10:27 AM
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The Pillar type bladed spokes (common on Mavic wheels) make a big difference in gusty cross winds. I hate them!!!
Yeah, the 1.5mm double butted are probably the most difficult, but not all that difficult. I use them all the time. Bladed make it easy to avoid windup. The others just require a little more attention.
Ovalized (forged) spokes like the CX Rays are primarily superior because they have the longest fatigue life of any spoke out there (because of the work hardening).
Ovalized (forged) spokes like the CX Rays are primarily superior because they have the longest fatigue life of any spoke out there (because of the work hardening).
Last edited by Clipped_in; 12-22-14 at 12:46 PM.
12-22-14, 10:30 AM
#19
Ride it like you stole it
It will prevent the spoke from winding while bringing it up to tension. But if you are diligent about stress relief it is not really necessary. I still use the Park Tool (1st image) when I am truing a bladed spoke wheel after it has been built.
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12-22-14, 11:06 AM
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12-22-14, 11:07 AM
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An experienced wheel builder will say neither. But us amateur builders will be faster building with bladed especially if you use one of these tools to minimize spoke wind-up.
It will prevent the spoke from winding while bringing it up to tension. But if you are diligent about stress relief it is not really necessary. I still use the Park Tool (1st image) when I am truing a bladed spoke wheel after it has been built.
It will prevent the spoke from winding while bringing it up to tension. But if you are diligent about stress relief it is not really necessary. I still use the Park Tool (1st image) when I am truing a bladed spoke wheel after it has been built.
12-22-14, 11:14 AM
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That could be. I never examined them under a magnifying glass. Just from handling them I have always thought their cross section was more of a thin rectangle.
12-22-14, 12:29 PM
#23
Ride it like you stole it
Once again, spoke relief has absolutely nothing to do with preventing or fixing spoke windup. Spoke relieving is done by stressing the spokes, while unwinding happens when the rim is compressed to take stress off them. They are opposite processes and done for very different purposes. Confusing them is very common.
"The higher the tension of the spokes, the more they twist and will remain that way. ... Corrective measures are carried out during the truing stage, by momentarily relieving the tension of each spoke by "pressing" the wheel. ... The wheel "stands" at last!" -- The Art of Wheelbuilding, Gerd Schraner
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12-22-14, 12:40 PM
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12-22-14, 12:52 PM
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