rjones28 

Slackerprince

Looks like you're using the Nashbar hex wrenches and torque wrench.


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velociraptor

Actually, they're Spin Doctor... Which I think may be the same as the Nashbar, just rebranded(?)

Excellent tools – and substantively less expensive than their Park Tool counterparts

rms13

I love the fact that $2k is considered a "budget build" around here.

Slackerprince

Look exactly like my Nashbar sets. Great value and quality.

Nashbar Torque Wrench

Nashbar P-Handle Hex Wrench Set


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revchuck 

For a bike that could take him to Cat 1, it's pretty cheap. Specialized sells one that's very similar to his (main difference is 11 speed), and its MSRP is $3500. For context, there are a lot of amateur racers using wheelsets that cost $1k more than his bike.

Edonis13

Just for my own clarification, is there a difference between the 2014 and 2015 frames other than colors? I might be replicating this build in the near future.

revchuck 

I read an article (Cyclenews?) that said that in 2014 the Smartweld frames were refined and lost some weight. There are supposedly three versions: the S-Works, the Pro/Comp Race, and the Expert/Comp. Each version is separated by about 100 grams in frame weight. I'm pretty sure the Smartweld frameset is the middle version. IIRC, that frame is 1150 grams. I don't believe there's a difference between the '14s and the '15s, even the colors are the same.

velociraptor

The geometry between the 2014 & 2015 is the same. The only difference is the '15 is called 'D'Aluisio Smartweld' and the '14 is just 'Smartweld'. From what I've been told & read, they shaved a few additional grams off the '15.

OTOH, the 2013's are in fact not the same, with marginally different geometry, even though the frameset looks similar.

Again, this is all based on what I've read & been told – However, it may not be 100% correct.

Others may come along with more/better info.

velociraptor

File this under 'Check & Double-check before cutting":

This is my first build with internal routing, so I called Spesh yesterday to determine set-up for the internal brake cabling (They don't have anything published that I could find).

Rep told me bare cable through the frame, with the housing ending at the frame stops.

Great.

Nope.

No cable stops on this frame, housing goes straight through from the lever to the rear caliper.

Would be fine, except I didn't scrutinize the frame before cutting the housing.

So now back to the LBS for more housing.

revchuck 

My 2015 Comp Race came with the housing pre-cut to fit through the frame and end up at the rear brake. Bummer about the housing!

velociraptor

Yes, this one came with the internal cable guide threaded through (pictured above).

My mistake was assuming that the top-side finishing cap was a cable stop.

Once I took it off, and then bothered to examine the bottom-side hole, I had a Homer 'Doh!' moment.

BENZ28

That's Odd! My Venge has stops and the Roubaix has stops, I wonder why they changed it on the Allez?

link0

To be fair, you can buy a brand new bike for $1000 (e.g., 2013 CAAD10) and take it to Cat 1. It's 99% the rider and 1% the bike.

velociraptor

Well, I don't race crits... just other 'over 40' buddies between stop signs, lol.

I fully realize that good bikes can be had for cheaper. I wanted this one

rjones28 

Yup. My '14 just says "Smartweld".



And it came with what a foam noodle to wrap the rear brake cable housing with inside the top tube. I didn't use it. No rattles.

velociraptor

I was wondering what the h*** that was for. Even asked the Spesh rep – totally confounded him.

Guess I'll hold onto it for next time.

rjones28 

Nobody told me that it was for that, but it seems logical.

The guys at my shop didn't know what it was either. We called it the "mystery noodle".

velociraptor

Well then you've got better deductive skills than me – I had nothin'!

Slackerprince

Good choice. I've been wanting a black bike, and yours looks awesome.
I had a 2005 Allez Elite, which was a whole other generation.


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velociraptor

Done with the cabling & initial derailleur setup.

Tomorrow the chain & bar tape.

gamby

Looks fantastic so far. Did you press in the BB bearings?

I'll be curious about a final weight.

velociraptor

Another irksome 'gotcha' yesterday.

The white shifter alignment marks on the front of the 3T bars are apparently not aligned from one side to the other (middle pic in prev post).

I positioned the top of the DS shifter on a perfect horizontal plane and then seriously screwed around for like 45 min trying to figure out why the NDS was pointed up by about 2 deg when aligned to the same mark.



Note to 3T: Alignment marks are only useful if they're actually, you know, aligned.

rpenmanparker 

I put a ruler across where the brifter tops intersect the bar. That gives a straight line very close to the bar top thst can be easily compared to the line of the bar. Easy peasey.

velociraptor

Yep. That's what I finally did... Ruler with a level across the tops.

I can't believe I messed with them for as long as I did. It was late and I was tired... The problem-solving part of my brain had already decided to go to sleep.