sugino mighty competition cranks and chain ring choices
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sugino mighty competition cranks and chain ring choices
i have an older sugino mighty comp crankset on my single gear. The chainrings were either a 52 or a 48 i believe.
I kept the 48 and started with a 17t freewheel in the back. I started to have knee issues so i switched to a 18 in the back. it didnt help much.
My question is can i go to a smaller chainring up front.....say a 42? I think it is 144 BCD but im not sure.
i havent found much for options on this crankset.
I kept the 48 and started with a 17t freewheel in the back. I started to have knee issues so i switched to a 18 in the back. it didnt help much.
My question is can i go to a smaller chainring up front.....say a 42? I think it is 144 BCD but im not sure.
i havent found much for options on this crankset.
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Yes, the old Sugino Mighty Compe is 144 BCD and the smallest chainring that will work is 42T (actually TA still makes a 41T that will work but have to do some filing of the crank spiders to provide chain clearance). You can find Sugino Messenger chainrings in 42T and 144 BCD.
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I found a 42 MC ring used cheap after I blew up my knee. They're out there.
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cool. I wasnt sure if the messenger zen would be correct or not.
I guess im running a 46 now....not a 48 as previously reported. My question now becomes.....at 70+ dollars a chainring do i go down to 44 or all the way down to 42.
I have to image you notice changing teeth count on the front ring alot more than the rear. Going from a 17t to a 18t on the rear didnt feel like much of change. I didnt notice it at all
I guess im running a 46 now....not a 48 as previously reported. My question now becomes.....at 70+ dollars a chainring do i go down to 44 or all the way down to 42.
I have to image you notice changing teeth count on the front ring alot more than the rear. Going from a 17t to a 18t on the rear didnt feel like much of change. I didnt notice it at all
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Well, one tooth on the cog will be more noticeable than one on the chainring.
It's a 1:2 tooth ratio when dealing with differences between cog/chainring. Moving to from a 17t to an 18t is essentially the same as going from a 48t to a 46t chainring.
It's a 1:2 tooth ratio when dealing with differences between cog/chainring. Moving to from a 17t to an 18t is essentially the same as going from a 48t to a 46t chainring.
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ah....so going from 46x17 to 46x18 woudl then essentially bring my front chainring to 44.
if i dump my front ring to 44 it woudl be the same as putting a 19 in the rear.
Maybe that would be easier.
Probably cheaper if i can find a 19 tooth freewheel.
I assume all gearing ratios dont matter. WE are probably talking about gear inches in the end. so if the gear inches = the same number in the end that is the goal.
if i dump my front ring to 44 it woudl be the same as putting a 19 in the rear.
Maybe that would be easier.
Probably cheaper if i can find a 19 tooth freewheel.
I assume all gearing ratios dont matter. WE are probably talking about gear inches in the end. so if the gear inches = the same number in the end that is the goal.
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Yeah it makes more sense to get a larger cog. You can use this (https://software.bareknucklebrigade.c...it.applet.html) to figure out gear inches and everything.
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I think the Sugino Mighty Compe is strictly a road crank; I have several from the 1970's and they are 144 BCD, and basically copies of the Campy Nuovo Record cranks of the day. I also used to own a 1972 Fuji Finest that came with a 144 BCD Sugino Mighty Compe double road crank. Only older Campy Pista track cranks were 151 BCD (I have one). I have never seen a Sugino track crank in 151 BCD.
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according to the calculator im pushing 67.2 gear inches currently. I wouldnt think that is too hard on the knees. my cadence is usually 70+.
I think if i rode a bit more at a higher cadence using a larger cog i might get built up to where i can drop to a 17t in the rear and be close to 70 gear inches. I dont much care about speed. Right now i just like to cover long distances and by that i mean 20+ miles without my knees complaining for days afterwards. IM fooling with cleat position lately to try and sort it out. Funny thing is i rode the trainer a couple times a week doing intervals on my normal road bike (3minutes flat out...followed by 3 minutes of soft pedaling....SUFFERFEST). THat didnt seem to affect me at all. Knees felt fine......
damnest thing.....
my saddle height is the same. My ss has a more agressive seat post angle that my road bike. My road bike is actually way too big for me...but oddly i dont get the issues i get on my ss. I enjoy the ss much more. Less drive train noise, fits me better, etc.
if i could find a road bike exactly like what i have (exact frame) in my size id snap it up and ride that. No luck yet. Ive been looking for about 6 months and nothing. Watching craigs i see a few posted around the country here and there but 9 times out of 10 nobody will ship no matter how much i pay for shipping or packing. Ebay is way over priced especially since sping has hit. IM not giving up though.
I figure maybe a faster cadence is all i need on my ss and my issues will go away. I should spring for the fitting and probably will once i find the road bike i want.
I think if i rode a bit more at a higher cadence using a larger cog i might get built up to where i can drop to a 17t in the rear and be close to 70 gear inches. I dont much care about speed. Right now i just like to cover long distances and by that i mean 20+ miles without my knees complaining for days afterwards. IM fooling with cleat position lately to try and sort it out. Funny thing is i rode the trainer a couple times a week doing intervals on my normal road bike (3minutes flat out...followed by 3 minutes of soft pedaling....SUFFERFEST). THat didnt seem to affect me at all. Knees felt fine......
damnest thing.....
my saddle height is the same. My ss has a more agressive seat post angle that my road bike. My road bike is actually way too big for me...but oddly i dont get the issues i get on my ss. I enjoy the ss much more. Less drive train noise, fits me better, etc.
if i could find a road bike exactly like what i have (exact frame) in my size id snap it up and ride that. No luck yet. Ive been looking for about 6 months and nothing. Watching craigs i see a few posted around the country here and there but 9 times out of 10 nobody will ship no matter how much i pay for shipping or packing. Ebay is way over priced especially since sping has hit. IM not giving up though.
I figure maybe a faster cadence is all i need on my ss and my issues will go away. I should spring for the fitting and probably will once i find the road bike i want.
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Sorry for the crappy pic. This is my Mighty Comp track 151 bcd from the early to mid 70's. I have 48 and 47 tooth rings for it. They emulated Campag back in the day too.
This one is anodized black too...haven't seen another like it
Attachment 148406
This one is anodized black too...haven't seen another like it
Attachment 148406
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I think the Sugino Mighty Compe is strictly a road crank; I have several from the 1970's and they are 144 BCD, and basically copies of the Campy Nuovo Record cranks of the day. I also used to own a 1972 Fuji Finest that came with a 144 BCD Sugino Mighty Compe double road crank. Only older Campy Pista track cranks were 151 BCD (I have one). I have never seen a Sugino track crank in 151 BCD.
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I have an old sugino mighty track crank, 151bcd. Length is 171mm!
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I have two sets of the Mighty Comp track cramks in 151 bcd sitting in my parts box. One set came on my early/mid-70s Paris Sport track bike while the other set I bought on ebay last year, thinking that they were 141. I've also got a black 151 mighty comp chainring. An ex roommate worked at a shop, the shop owner had several 151 rings sitting around and sold them to my friend for $20 (for all the them, not individually). The ex roommate sold them to me for the same price a year later.
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