khs flite 100 question
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khs flite 100 question
Before I dorp $600 on a flite 100 i would like to know if the Mercier Kilt TT is the exact same bike. Is there anything beneficial about buying the khs over mercier or spicer. I would be buying complete and love the new green frame but not sure it's worth the extra money.
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Well, you can read the other threads on BD products. They tend to be a little heavier, have cheaper components, maybe sloppier welds, and less customer support. They seem to be a good value, but yeah, you get what you pay for, more or less.
I have a Flight 100 - nice steel bike!
I have a Flight 100 - nice steel bike!
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time.
The KHS has nice wheels, a much nicer headset, nicer cranks(which are much more easily replaced down the road), a nicer saddle, nicer pedals, a nicer cog, and better tires. Just about every componant is an upgrade of the Kilo, some of them by wide margins.
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Back to the Original Poster: From what I have seen, the frames are the same but as mentioned by Kayce the KHS has better parts on it. He might be cranky, but he's also right.
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You could always get a kilo tt and upgrade it to your preference. I suppose you'll like that more than keeping the khs stock. Just a suggestion Both are great bikes though.
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You definitely want the 50cm size or smaller. The Kilo/Flite100 run big. You do get better components over the Kilo for the extra money, so it's def worth it.
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I wouldn't say the components are "way better". Since it's the same frame, and you aren't getting much improvement on hubs and crank, get a Kilo.
Generic hubs to Formula hubs is not much of an upgrade to me. Dura Ace hubs are an upgrade.
You can upgrade the parts as you go. Ebay a decent saddle.
Frame size is also about top tube length - don't want to be too tight or too stretched out.
Generic hubs to Formula hubs is not much of an upgrade to me. Dura Ace hubs are an upgrade.
You can upgrade the parts as you go. Ebay a decent saddle.
Frame size is also about top tube length - don't want to be too tight or too stretched out.
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For general commuting I would take formulas over any hub out there, no questions asked. Plus they are laced to nicer rims. And the cranks are in fact quite an upgrade, not to mention square taper. Why buy a bike where you have plans to upgrade most componants(possibly every), when you can spend a little more out of the gate, and have no neeed to upgrade quite a few of them.
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I have a Flite, and I got my GF a Kilo. The Kilo is much better for the money. Similar quality components. And the wheelset on the Kilo is complete crap - unsealed bearings. The hubs on mine were screwed after one winter of everyday riding. The Kilo at least has sealed hubs.
Why do people write useless crap like this?
Why do people write useless crap like this?
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the frames are the same. the khs has "better" components but imo it won't matter much. some parts (saddle, stem, maybe handlebar) might have to replaced no matter which bike you get, simply to get a better fit. so in that regard, it doesn't matter what came on the khs or the kilo. the cranks, that's arguable which one is better. i prefer the truvativ touro, others prefer the fsa/sugino (whichever the khs came with). the wheels on the kilo feel cheap and heavy, but for all practical purposes, you won't notice a difference in the ride quality between the kilo and the khs. maybe the kilo rear hub is more prone to stripping, but i don't skid so it's not an issue imo. on the other hand, nobody will want to jack your stock beater kilo wheels when you lock up outside, so that might even be a positive. i think the khs looks better, yet every time i see someone on a khs, i can't help but think that guy as a brand snob who overpaid for his rig.
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the frames are the same. the khs has "better" components but imo it won't matter much. some parts (saddle, stem, maybe handlebar) might have to replaced no matter which bike you get, simply to get a better fit. so in that regard, it doesn't matter what came on the khs or the kilo. the cranks, that's arguable which one is better. i prefer the truvativ touro, others prefer the fsa/sugino (whichever the khs came with). the wheels on the kilo feel cheap and heavy, but for all practical purposes, you won't notice a difference in the ride quality between the kilo and the khs. maybe the kilo rear hub is more prone to stripping, but i don't skid so it's not an issue imo. on the other hand, nobody will want to jack your stock beater kilo wheels when you lock up outside, so that might even be a positive. i think the khs looks better, yet every time i see someone on a khs, i can't help but think that guy as a brand snob who overpaid for his rig.
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i think from a performance standpoint, people are overpaying for a flite 100 when they can get a kilo for cheaper. if you can find a good deal on a flite 100, by all means swoop on that. but it doesn't matter what i think. do whatchu like.
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Better yet bike religion has the frameset for $199.
https://bikereligion.com/product/khs-...ameset-957.htm
https://bikereligion.com/product/khs-...ameset-957.htm
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Why don't you spend $400 for the Kilo TT Pro, the component upgrades are definitely much better than the regular TT and on par with the flite 100, but $200 less than the flite 100. Buying a Kilo TT Pro would be like buying a 2007 flite 100.
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I should add, I got my Flite 100 frameset brand new for basically the same price as a Kilo TT frame, so it made no difference either way. I liked the gloss white and matte gunmetal they offered at the time, and the paint is def higher quality and more durable than that on on the Merciers.
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I should add, I got my Flite 100 frameset brand new for basically the same price as a Kilo TT frame, so it made no difference either way. I liked the gloss white and matte gunmetal they offered at the time, and the paint is def higher quality and more durable than that on on the Merciers.
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Joe
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Sizing: (c-c = center to center seat tube, c-t = center to top, TT = top tube c-c)
44cm (c-c) is 47cm(c-t) with TT of 503mm* and standover of 28.5 inches
47cm (c-c) is 50cm(c-t) with TT of 513mm and standover of 29 inches
50cm (c-c) is 53cm(c-t) with TT of 523mm and standover of 30.4 inches
53cm (c-c) is 56cm(c-t) with TT of 548mm and standover of 31.5 inches
55cm (c-c) is 58cm(c-t) with TT of 565mm and standover of 32 inches
57cm (c-c) is 60cm(c-t) with TT of 575mm and standover of 33 inches
60cm (c-c) is 63cm(c-t) with TT of 606mm and standover of 34 inches
63cm (c-c) is 66cm(c-t) with TT of 630mm and standover of 35.5 inches
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Last edited by TejanoTrackie; 08-16-10 at 06:40 AM.
#23
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if you're into the idea of upgrading your bike over time, you should just get the kilo. the 200 you'll save will start you off with some small upgrades and you can just shop around and spend accordingly from there. Also, if you're getting the khs from a website, you'll have spent more than 600 unless the shipping is free. The money you'll save from the bd free shipping can go towards replacing more stuff.
I don't know how picky you are about your bikes, but most everyone who gets a kilo is pleased with it. For the cost of the bike it's a great value. The khs will have better components, but 200 bucks in your pocket can be nice too.
I don't know how picky you are about your bikes, but most everyone who gets a kilo is pleased with it. For the cost of the bike it's a great value. The khs will have better components, but 200 bucks in your pocket can be nice too.
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