Windsor hour fsa vero crankset width
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Windsor hour fsa vero crankset width
My windsor hour came with a vero 48t crankset. Does anyone know whether its 1/8 or 3/32? Id like to convert over the gears to 3/32, so that ii can just use hand me down chains and chainrings.
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Doesn't matter.
If it's currently a 1/8" drive train, you can use 3/32" components. And if it it's currently a 3/32" drive train.... well... its 3/32".
If it's currently a 1/8" drive train, you can use 3/32" components. And if it it's currently a 3/32" drive train.... well... its 3/32".
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Hmmm BD doesn't seem to sell these w/ FSA vero's, they're too nice to come stock with a BD bike. Did you buy this second hand?
The majority of SS/FG bikes (higher end LBS sourced bikes) that come with this crankset (they're also known as gossamer's prior) have a 3/32nd chain ring. But this is just an observation of mine.
The surefire way to check is to measure.
Or by comparison. If you're running a confirmed 1/8ths chain on a 3/32nd drivetrain part there should be some vertical play in the grooves where the chain meets the chainring. Facing the chainring, hold the chain by a link that's on the chainring and try to wiggle it back and forth.
The majority of SS/FG bikes (higher end LBS sourced bikes) that come with this crankset (they're also known as gossamer's prior) have a 3/32nd chain ring. But this is just an observation of mine.
The surefire way to check is to measure.
Or by comparison. If you're running a confirmed 1/8ths chain on a 3/32nd drivetrain part there should be some vertical play in the grooves where the chain meets the chainring. Facing the chainring, hold the chain by a link that's on the chainring and try to wiggle it back and forth.
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So does anyone know?
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https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in.../t-477812.html
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A different bike with vero states its 1/8.
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._al_carb_x.htm
Chainreaction states its 3/32.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...%20Accessories
Ill try the wiggle test tomorrow.
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._al_carb_x.htm
Chainreaction states its 3/32.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...%20Accessories
Ill try the wiggle test tomorrow.
Hmmm BD doesn't seem to sell these w/ FSA vero's, they're too nice to come stock with a BD bike. Did you buy this second hand?
The majority of SS/FG bikes (higher end LBS sourced bikes) that come with this crankset (they're also known as gossamer's prior) have a 3/32nd chain ring. But this is just an observation of mine.
The surefire way to check is to measure.
Or by comparison. If you're running a confirmed 1/8ths chain on a 3/32nd drivetrain part there should be some vertical play in the grooves where the chain meets the chainring. Facing the chainring, hold the chain by a link that's on the chainring and try to wiggle it back and forth.
The majority of SS/FG bikes (higher end LBS sourced bikes) that come with this crankset (they're also known as gossamer's prior) have a 3/32nd chain ring. But this is just an observation of mine.
The surefire way to check is to measure.
Or by comparison. If you're running a confirmed 1/8ths chain on a 3/32nd drivetrain part there should be some vertical play in the grooves where the chain meets the chainring. Facing the chainring, hold the chain by a link that's on the chainring and try to wiggle it back and forth.
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You can change everything except the chain. And it seems like you don't plan on changing the chain immediately, so it shouldn't really be a concern.
You could also just measure it. Have a ruler?
You could also just measure it. Have a ruler?
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Mate, a worn chain will wear out your cogs and chainrings more quickly, indeed much more quickly. In my world, where EVERYTHING costs more than in the US, chains aren't expensive and for those on a budget, a $20 bmx chain lasts for ages, just not as long as an $80 track chain.
It's also my understanding that 1/8 chains will last a lot longer because they are designed to run straight whereas a 3/32 chain is designed to flex.
Stop your dithering. Buy 1/8 chains. Fit 1/8 cogs when you wear them out. You'll probably never have to replace the chainring ... unless you use second hand chains.
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Of course. If you do it the simple way, the job's over and done with in no time. If you complicate it, you get to dither about, worry needlessly, research, ask stoopid questions, make a hash of the job, ask more stoopid questions while you try to work out what's gone wrong, then spend more time, effort and money fixing it. I ask you, which has more overall satisfaction?