1" threaded or 1" threadless?
#1
aka Timi
Thread Starter
1" threaded or 1" threadless?
This topic must have been discussed before but I've searched and not come up with the opinions which will tip the balance.
I'll be ordering a Bob Jackson World Tour frame which comes off-the-peg either with optional 1" threaded or 1" threadless fork (I presume uncut). 1 1/8" threadless is not an option.
As far as my understanding goes the pros and cons are:
Threaded:
Threadless:
Thanks and Happy New Year!
I'll be ordering a Bob Jackson World Tour frame which comes off-the-peg either with optional 1" threaded or 1" threadless fork (I presume uncut). 1 1/8" threadless is not an option.
As far as my understanding goes the pros and cons are:
Threaded:
- Quill stem (e.g Nitto Technomic Deluxe)
- Height adjustability
- Lesser choice of handlebars (26mm)
- Converter to threadless 1 1/8" stems and thus 31.8mm handlebars
Threadless:
- Limited stem choices
- Shim necessary for 1 1/8" stems
- No height adjustability once cut
Thanks and Happy New Year!
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 809
Bikes: 2010 Felt F5, 2010 Dawes SST-AL
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I wouldnt worry about stem options if you go threadless, there are a billion options out there, perhaps moreso than going with a quill stem (unless you buy adjustable)
I personally am using an adapter because IMO it gives you the best of both - I can adjust height as I wish, if my reach isn't comfortable, I can swap out with moderate ease, and the same with angle. That said, I dont have 100 stems to cover all of my options... I got an adapter that goes from 1" to 1.125 & have the 31.8 mm handlebar.
I personally am using an adapter because IMO it gives you the best of both - I can adjust height as I wish, if my reach isn't comfortable, I can swap out with moderate ease, and the same with angle. That said, I dont have 100 stems to cover all of my options... I got an adapter that goes from 1" to 1.125 & have the 31.8 mm handlebar.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 193
Bikes: Raleigh Sports, Giant Cadex, Waterford X-11, Specialized Rockhopper Comp FS, Viscount Aerospace Pro, Scwinn Passage
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
The good thing about threadless for touring is you only have to bring an allen key for maintenance. For threaded you need to carry a large wrench, sometimes two, depending on your headset.
With that being said my touring bike has a threaded headset.
With that being said my touring bike has a threaded headset.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 524
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times
in
13 Posts
Personally I'd go threadless. You can have the stem cut so you can use spacers for some height adjustability: spacers can be placed below and/or above the stem, just don't overdo below-the-stem. I prefer the bar clamps on threadless stems as you don't have to finagle the bars through the stem and risk scratching them: while the odds of causing a sufficiently severe gouge to raise stress-fractures on an aluminum bar are minimal, it could happen. A shim to use 1-1/8" stems on a 1" steerer is no big deal and works well.
If you're really a stickler for stem adjustability, Look makes(? used to make?) a ridiculously adjustable threadless stem with a couple of pivot-joints, for extension and height. Not cheap, but it's an option.
If you're really a stickler for stem adjustability, Look makes(? used to make?) a ridiculously adjustable threadless stem with a couple of pivot-joints, for extension and height. Not cheap, but it's an option.
#5
Is Right
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Boston
Posts: 240
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Here's a vote for threaded. The height adjustability of a threaded setup is huge for me. Plus it just looks better IMHO. As for headset wrenches, I think with any half-decent headset, once adjusted correctly you won't need to touch it even on the longest of tours.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 8,896
Bikes: Waterford RST-22, Bob Jackson World Tour, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Soma Saga, De Bernardi SL, Specialized Sequoia
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 196 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
4 Posts
I went for threaded (quill) on my BJ. That was one of the reasons why I bought the frame. Threaded stems look better, IMHO, and are much easier to dial in the height. Plus if you cut a threaded fork and later try to sell the bike, it might be too short for prospective buyers. There is not a stem sold today that is nicer looking or higher quality than a Nitto Deluxe or Pearl. The weight differences between a Nitto and most threadless stems are minimal.
#7
-
I've used both recently, and prefer threadless.
Quality threaded stems are very limited availability now, limiting choices in length/angle, expensive and relatively heavy.
I agree with Tarwheel in that threaded stems have an appearance advantage on C/V style bikes. I use Thomson Elite stems when I can get them discounted. They are quite good-looking for a threadless stem, and tops in strength/longevity.
For threadless all you have to do is cut the steerer extra long and add spacers above stem, then cut down later once your information/confidence improves.
Quality threaded stems are very limited availability now, limiting choices in length/angle, expensive and relatively heavy.
I agree with Tarwheel in that threaded stems have an appearance advantage on C/V style bikes. I use Thomson Elite stems when I can get them discounted. They are quite good-looking for a threadless stem, and tops in strength/longevity.
For threadless all you have to do is cut the steerer extra long and add spacers above stem, then cut down later once your information/confidence improves.
Last edited by seeker333; 01-01-10 at 02:53 PM.
#9
aka Timi
Thread Starter
escii_35, why would that be silly?
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 8,896
Bikes: Waterford RST-22, Bob Jackson World Tour, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Soma Saga, De Bernardi SL, Specialized Sequoia
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 196 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
4 Posts
head tube
Imi - Here is a photo of the head tube -- with a ruler -- on my 23" World Tour.
#11
Senior Member
Both have advantages. I would probably pick the threadless though. Threaded was great for my daughter and our other Trans America companion though. They were not sure what they wanted in bar height and it was so easy to raise and lower the threaded one as they changed theier minds numerous times in the first fe weeks.
I don't like the looks of threadless with a stack of spacers, but it isn't an issue for me because I like my bars 4-5" below the saddle.
I don't like the looks of threadless with a stack of spacers, but it isn't an issue for me because I like my bars 4-5" below the saddle.
#12
aka Timi
Thread Starter
Thanks everybody for your answers (and for the picture Tarwheel, this was related to a PM)... Seems to be a matter of personal preference rather than a clear cut choice, but your comments have certainly clarified things for me. BF, you're BEST!
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central Coast, CA
Posts: 3,392
Bikes: Surly LHT, Specialized Rockhopper, Nashbar Touring (old), Specialized Stumpjumper (older), Nishiki Tourer (model unknown)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I wouldn't make it a major criterium in deciding on a bike. If I liked a bike, it wouldn't matter much. However, all other things being equal, I'd go with threadless. There are a bizzillion choices (I know - I've bought half a bizzillion.)
#14
More Energy than Sense
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 718
Bikes: Co-Motion Divide
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
A lugged frame begs to have a quill stem.
However, if you don't know your reach and decide after a while you need a different length stem, changing out bars w/ a quill stem is a lot more work than with a threadless set up.
However, if you don't know your reach and decide after a while you need a different length stem, changing out bars w/ a quill stem is a lot more work than with a threadless set up.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Hvergelmir
Bicycle Mechanics
8
06-09-14 01:14 PM
virtualelvis
Bicycle Mechanics
8
11-16-10 07:23 PM