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Old 11-20-09 | 01:20 PM
  #30  
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rhm
multimodal commuter
 
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: NJ, NYC, LI

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Originally Posted by CravenMoarhead
Yes that is how it is done. When you tighten the spokes that go to the left flange the rim moves left, tighten the right side and it moves right. A full turn on a nipple can effect a surprisingly drastic change in the rim location.

This is my favorite wheelbuilding reference article. I keep it on the screen everytime I lace a wheel just in case I have a brain fart. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

read it all the way through if you haven't before, there's a lot of good tips and insight in there.

Just keep in mind. This is not difficult, you'll be fine.
+1. Building wheels is one of those things where doing it is easier than thinking about doing it. So just do i! Since your rim has offset spoke holes, make sure they're on the left side of the wheel, and go for it. Lacing it up is one process, truing it is another one. Take it one step at a time; once you have it all laced up, check all the spokes for accuracy before you start tightening them up. Don't worry, have fun... take your time and get it right, and you will be so proud of your creation you'll get addicted to wheelbuilding!
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