Originally Posted by
mechBgon
In the bigger picture, Octalink is one of the easier things to get right without a torque wrench, because the Octalink crank is intended to bottom out onto the inboard end of the spindle's splined section, and when it does, the resistance ramps up so abruptly it's blindingly obvious (famous last words

). So if anything,
roccobike, aim for the high end of the torque range just to be sure the crank's fully seated.
Like
operator said, grease or anti-sieze the interface. If your cranks don't have auto-extractors, then when you're extracting the arms with a conventional puller, do make sure to remove the washer from under the head of the bolt before you insert the extractor. They're very slim washers so they're easy to overlook.
Me experience is that when new they do not ramp up abruptly to the proper torque. They ramp up abruptly to pretty tight and then they need to be turned quite a bit more before they reach proper installation depth and proper torque spec. I agree with aiming for the high end of the spec. Tightening them until the torque ramps up and then a smidge more by "feel" will likely result in a loosened and ruined crank.