I just completed my third winter on this:
It's a 2006 Trek Portland. A bit spendy, but at the time I bought it, there were no other choices available. My requirements were:
- Drop bars with STI
- Triple with 175mm crank
- Rack and fender mounts
- Room in the frame and fork for my studded snow tires with full fenders
- Disc brakes
- Aluminum frame
The 105/Ultegra drivetrain and carbon fork were nice extras. Although since winter riding eats chains for breakfast, I'd be a lot happier with 8 or 9-speed. 10-speed chains get expensive after a while.
These days there are many more options, although few in aluminum. With weeks and weeks of almost continuous snow, coupled with the way they salt the roads around here, I wouldn't use a steel bike in winter. Cars don't last more than seven to ten years. Possibly it's different elsewhere--cold and dry it wouldn't be an issue.
My only complaints about the bike were the low-spoke-count wheels. Since that photo, (taken in 2008) I've replaced the wheels and added a dynamo hub and lighting system. In the long dark of winter, it's very nice having lights that don't need batteries. I can't afford a lighting failure during a ride. That's why I still supplement the dyno lights with battery ones.
Here's how it was equipped for this past winter:
A 20-mile commute in winter is ambitious, but doable depending on conditions. I'm not sure that would be for me, but everyone's different.
Studded snow tires are a must. Even well-plowed and salted roads always seem to have hidden patches of ice. It's the ice that gets you without studs.
Even with the right equipment, riding in the snow is tough. It's the varying road conditions that are the challenge. No two bike-lengths are ever the same. The best conditions are fresh snow, glare ice, and wet, gushy slush.
Good, solid hardpack is almost like asphalt. The problem is that it's also layered and flaky, like pastry crust. As it forms and as it disintegrates, the packed layers slide against each other--sideways--as you roll over it. Your tires may have excellent grip on the top layer, but that layer may shear against the layers below--and it always does so sideways. Unfortunately, hardpack is the most common surface I face.
The weather is lots, lots easier to work with. There are two things I would not be without.
- Windproof, water-resistant, insulated tights, and
- my Lake MXZ302 winter cycling shoes.
While have preferences, I can make do with almost anything else, although I've found cycling-specific clothing makes it a lot easier.