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Old 08-20-10 | 10:50 AM
  #29  
fuji86
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,959
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From: Flagler Palm Coast, FL

Bikes: 1986 Fuji Allegro 12 Spd; 2015 Bianchi Kuma 27.2 24 Spd; 1997 Fuji MX-200 21 Spd; 2010 Vilano SS/FG 46/16

Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
Besides being strikingly handsome, charming, tasteful, and total babe magnets, Scrod and I have a few other things in common... we work on bikes... all day.

Besides this, I build some rather fine wheels and am presently apprenticing with a frame builder.

If the wheel is not laterally true this will not affect the balance by much and if it not radially true it has something we like to call "hop" which something a well built wheel should not have and you don't need much of this to notice it.

I don't deal in fractions when I build and true wheels... I deal in thousandths of an inch with 5/1000 being my usual tolerance for radial and lateral deflection but strive to build 0/0 wheels.
With tolerances like that, I'm certain the wheels you build & true are very fine. The tech that did my wheels I felt did a fine job, I was able to watch him do it as I rode the bike in that day, took him about an hour. As to the tolerances, I couldn't say. I know to the sense of feel in my finger tip, there is very little if any untrueness that remains at the bottom of the tire when fixed to a static position on the frame (seat tube) and fork (the under side of it as the wheel spins thru the fork tines).

"Hop" = imbalance

When you spin your wheel(s), does the valve stem orient itself at the bottom ?
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