Originally Posted by
SortaGrey
Corrected spoke lines... you mean bending the line down past the flange... ? I didin't grip that issue well when I read it in the book.. or online. Or.. making sure the line heads directly to the rim hole.. ie, not really a pre-stressing of the elbow bend?
You push the outbound spokes inward with your thumbs so they follow the flange better and squeeze crossing spokes together near the rim so spokes leave the nipples at the correct angle instead of being bowed.
200K on a set of spokes... I hadn't heard that. Makes me wonder about the rim.. and hub too... that's 4K a yr for 50 yrs......... must have been a good lot # of steel.
You replace the rims when they wear out and leave the rest of the wheel alone.
Well lubricated wheel bearings seem to last pretty much indefinitely, balls and cones are replaceable if that doesn't work out, and Campagnolo cups are sold as replacement parts.
My point.. per the spoke elongation.. was the lighter gauge spokes get slack too..
If the rim can bend that far without damage.
And the butted can still work loose... after that slack period like any other spoke... not set in place with some glue etc.
When built with sufficient tension (whatever the Jobst method produces or a measured 110kgf on the drive side, and whatever the NDS ends up at with the wheel dished correctly) the spokes don't loosen until you hit something hard enough to put a permanent flat spot or bend in the rim.
Even with Campagnolo wheels which have a greater tension imbalance due to the longer freehub.
Even with nipple threads and sockets properly lubricated.