I believe there's a Surly frame with an assymetric rear dropout offset, which allows the use of a wheel with the rim centered between the flanges rather than between the locknuts.
If that kind of thing floats your boat it's easily enough recreated by cold setting pretty much any old steel frame, and then tweaking the dish to match.
But I've said it before in wheel building discussions here,from the commercial aspect the money (usually) isn't in building the best wheels possible, it's in building a wheel that's good enough, as fast as possible.

And for that 3X, straight gauge, decently tensioned, is hard to beat.