Originally Posted by
a77impala
I have used longer stemmed forks by grinding out the threads of the bearing cap. I grind out just enough that
it will slide on the stem. Then I put a spacer on and use the top cap to tighten it all up.
This is what I was thinking.
Originally Posted by
fietsbob
If it's not , then one of Sheldon's kludges can be brought in,
threadless top race, a clamp spacer, with 1"ID[25.4mm] to hold the adjustment,
the spacer and the top nut.
then you can use your quill stem.
What is a clamp spacer with 1" ID?
Originally Posted by
FBinNY
The answer depends on the length of thread, and how far you plan to insert the stem.
Most headsets require close to 3/4" of thread, so you're at the borderline, and first need to test that the top bearing threads down far enough. If it does, then you can use extra spacers above, or trim off the excess at your option (don't trim too close, since you can't re-trim it longer, cut long and use spacers to be safe).
The second part is critical, the stem must extend 1/2" beyond the lowest thread if it's the split with cone type, or much more than that if it has a tapered wedge. That's because the threaded section of the steerer has less than half the strength of the unthreaded section. The stem must reach well into the full wall section to transfer the load without breaking the steerer.
Thank you.