Originally Posted by
Schwinnrider
Let's address your questions one by one---
" Can you brake or shift from the tops or the curves behind the brake hoods?" What do you mean? If I felt the need to brake from the tops, I'd install an inexpensive pair of cyclocross brake levers, and that would be that.With my drops, I can brake from the hoods and the drops, and getting my hand to the brake from the ramp or the top is a matter of a second. Not a big deal. As far as shifting from that position, why? It's not difficult for me to reach down to my barcon and shift. Too much emphasis is placed on the need to shift IMMEDIATELY. Pedal harder. It's good cardio.
Don't tell me. You're a retrogrouch. One of those guys who says, "I personally don't need something therefore it's stupid." Believe it or not, there are about six billion other people in the world and some of them might just think a little differently.
"How much does it cost to convert to drop bars? New handlebars, new stem, new brake/shift levers." That depends. Nashbar offers a drop bar for $25, and barcons will cost you AT MOST $100. eBay is always a source for cheaper parts. As a matter of fact, there are Ultegra barcons on eBay right now for $60. New stem? Maybe, maybe not. Still, even if you have to do that, it's going to end up cheaper than $275 and will weigh less.
That's why I told him to get it down to less than $150. Honestly, do you try to read before you knock something? And an awful lot of people don't trust used parts bought on eBay or refuse to buy on eBay at all. I have no problem with doing so, but I'm not like you in believing my attitude is the only one that matters.
"Plus they don't work with most cable-operated disc brakes and definitely no hydraulics." A Google search for "disc brakes with road levers" reveals there are LOTS of people using that combination.
That's what happens when you rely on Google rather than experience.
AFAIK, only one disc brake will work with road levers because of the different cable travel: the Avid BB7 version designed specifically for road use, and BB7s aren't cheap. So yes,
most cable-operated discs won't work. You could add pulleys and other things to change cable travel, but this attitude of yours that "it's too complicated, so I can do it my way by adding different complication" is rather silly, too.
What this product does not address is being able to CHANGE HAND POSITION. That's one of the keys to comfort. That's why tourists, who will spend 8 hours a day in the saddle, use either drops or trekking bars overwhelmingly. Being able to move from the tops to the ramp to the hood to the drops allows one's hands to recover. All being able to raise the stem does, IMHO, is rest one's back. But if someone is so uncomfortable they need to raise the bars that high, I think they'll tend to keep the bar in the most comfortable position.
You're making assumptions that aren't very defensible. Touring cyclists don't use drops just to rest their hands. They also use them to vary their body position. Go lower to fight headwinds. Sit higher to breathe easier and take in the sights. Switch it up to use tired leg and gluteal muscles slightly differently. Use your favorite tool, Google. Do an image search for "touring bike" and you'll find that quite a few have flat bars. Over decades of riding, I've owned drops, flat with bar-ends (I used bar-ends before most people even heard of them), Scott AT-2/3/4, cowhorn, WTB flared drops, trekking and other handlebars you've never even heard of. When I did have drops, I spent over 95% of my time on the hoods because it was the most comfortable position and I could reach the brakes. I never had tired hands that needed rest. But again, unlike you, I don't believe my experience is the only valid one.