Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 44,340
Likes: 6,640
From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
It's quite tricky to calibrate the TS-2 to be completely centered. Mine is a good bit off, so I just remember how off it is and build the wheel to be off center inside the caliper. To verify, I flip the wheel and make sure it's in the same place.
I've been having a heck of a time building my latest wheel, but that's because I'm a cheapskate and insisted on using spokes I had on hand. I also should have checked the length of the spokes before starting. Some are too long, and some are too short.
I've got it right now, but I'll have to file down some spoke ends now.
I taught myself a new trick this time. You'll probably tell me it's common knowledge. Anyway, the trick:
The problem is that putting the last bit of tension in the wheel is difficult because the wheel is already tight. It's even harder if you realize you have to move the rim over to the right. The result can be an undertensioned wheel.
The solution is to move the rim too far to the right. Then increase tension with the left spokes. Final tension is high, and rim is in the right place.
When did the term dish stick emerge? I like it. We called it a dishing tool. Actually, they're both wrong. You use it for both front and rear wheels, and you use it to check that the rim is centered between the locknuts, so it should be called a centering tool.