Not having shift gates will help. The teeth won't be bigger, but the gate (cut down one or to teeth) allow a chain to move sideways a bit where it might snag the next upcoming tooth.

There are a number of sources plain or SS chainrings. I have a bunch from a variety brnds, but the dirst step is knowing the BCD required.

As I said, eliminating the gates will help, but if the chain is running straight, as it should be, then there's no reason for the chain to deflect sideways at a gate and come off. Double check that the chainline is correct by measuring both the hub and cranks offset as follows.

Hub-- measure from sprocket to the inside face of the dropout, subtract that from 1/2 the hub's axle width to find the center to sprocket distance.

Chainring -- measure from the teeth to a frame tube, add 1/2 the frame tubes diameter for the chainline offset. This number should be within 2mm from that of the rear.