Single Chainring throwing chain
#1
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Old ones.
Single Chainring throwing chain
Where's the best place to look for SS or track chainrings? I've got a 50T truvativ up front that is ramped for shifting and I keep tossing the chain to the outside. Figure a ring with bigger teeth, no ramps, and probably a chainkeeper are in order.
#3
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Old ones.
Yes, it's an older bike with horizontal dropouts. I have both eyeballed the wheel to center and also measured from the center of the axle to center of crankarm bolts. Brand new wheel and straight as an arrow. I installed a 108 BB in it, if a straight teeth chainring doesn't work then I think I may need to go to a wider BB as well.
#4
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Not having shift gates will help. The teeth won't be bigger, but the gate (cut down one or to teeth) allow a chain to move sideways a bit where it might snag the next upcoming tooth.
There are a number of sources plain or SS chainrings. I have a bunch from a variety brnds, but the dirst step is knowing the BCD required.
As I said, eliminating the gates will help, but if the chain is running straight, as it should be, then there's no reason for the chain to deflect sideways at a gate and come off. Double check that the chainline is correct by measuring both the hub and cranks offset as follows.
Hub-- measure from sprocket to the inside face of the dropout, subtract that from 1/2 the hub's axle width to find the center to sprocket distance.
Chainring -- measure from the teeth to a frame tube, add 1/2 the frame tubes diameter for the chainline offset. This number should be within 2mm from that of the rear.
There are a number of sources plain or SS chainrings. I have a bunch from a variety brnds, but the dirst step is knowing the BCD required.
As I said, eliminating the gates will help, but if the chain is running straight, as it should be, then there's no reason for the chain to deflect sideways at a gate and come off. Double check that the chainline is correct by measuring both the hub and cranks offset as follows.
Hub-- measure from sprocket to the inside face of the dropout, subtract that from 1/2 the hub's axle width to find the center to sprocket distance.
Chainring -- measure from the teeth to a frame tube, add 1/2 the frame tubes diameter for the chainline offset. This number should be within 2mm from that of the rear.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
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From: Durham, NC
Bikes: 69 Hercules, 73 Raleigh Sports, 74 Raliegh Competition, 78 Nishiki Professional, 79 Nishiki International, 83 Colnago Super, 83 Viner Junior
I have run a double chainring in an SS setup for years without an issue. I recently changed the rear hub to an IGH 2sp and so went with a 1/8" chain, but still no issue. I'd say that you either have an alignment issue or something is worn.
-G
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#6
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Old ones.
New chain, chainring, and 8-speed cassette. Do you run a chain keeper on your setup? I do believe I need a wider BB, maybe I'll throw the old spindle and loose bearings back in it and try that.
#7
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
QBP,[thru most bike shops] stainless steel. Surly branded.
110 [34t+] & 130 BCD [38t+] up to 50t. for single chainring
I have one on my IGH bike, another single chainring bike I use a chainguard disc outside
and a chainminder, inside..
110 [34t+] & 130 BCD [38t+] up to 50t. for single chainring
I have one on my IGH bike, another single chainring bike I use a chainguard disc outside
and a chainminder, inside..
#8
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
By any chance, when converting to a 1x8 setup, did you move the chainring to the inner (or middle) position. If so that's likely a big part of the problem. Move it back to the original outer position, which is about 8mm farther out and it'll be much better in not perfect.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#9
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
By any chance, when converting to a 1x8 setup, did you move the chainring to the inner (or middle) position. If so that's likely a big part of the problem. Move it back to the original outer position, which is about 8mm farther out and it'll be much better if not perfect.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#10
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Old ones.
It still sits on the outside, but I did put a much skinnier BB in which had the same effect as you describe. So I guess first thing is to get a wider BB in it and see how that acts
#12
I think you can have a good chain line and an unramped track style chain ring and still run into dropped chains pretty easily on a 1x8 with no chain watcher or guide.
While improving the chain line will help, I think you should get a chain watcher or use a cable-less front derailleur with its limit screws clamped down as a chain guide. 1x8 1x9 and 1x10 systems all seem to rely on some safety guard to avoid dropping the chain off the front.
While improving the chain line will help, I think you should get a chain watcher or use a cable-less front derailleur with its limit screws clamped down as a chain guide. 1x8 1x9 and 1x10 systems all seem to rely on some safety guard to avoid dropping the chain off the front.
#13
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Old ones.
Took a look at it yesterday, and forgot it's a 7 speed cluster and not an 8. A moot point anyway. I ordered a chain watcher type thing last night I will put on and solve my issues. I knew I needed one, but I will probably also get a SS type chainring later as well. Thanks for all the replies folks, was interested in others opinions/ideas and you all came through
#14
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From: Seattle
I have a similar problem with my chainring. I have an old 5 spd and replaced the crank and corresponding chainring. I did my best to have a straight line to gear 3, but still lose the chain from time to time. I'll will implement some of the ideas I read here to see what works. I can easily mount a fixed front derailluer cage to keep the chain, or look for some sort of chain keeper for my BCD. Where would one find a chain guard disc to attach to the crank spider? Robert
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