Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,194
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
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Getting the hoods to clear between the lever body and the safety lever is important to prevent friction between the two.
I put the washer on the protruding stud and cut around the washer instead of just around the stud. It is ncessary to have the stud pass thru the smaller hole first, so the hood lies flat on top of the larger-diameter washer while you trim around it with a sharp razor.
Some levers seem to require this more than others, I've seen some that worked okay with only the smaller hole for the stud, perhaps by deleting the washer? (wouldn't want to do that, the lever tip might slip off of the main brake lever's edge from the extra flex).
And BTW, the rubber on the CaneCreek hoods seems much thicker in places than original DiaCompe hoods.