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Old 06-20-12, 08:12 AM
  #14  
FBinNY 
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

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To the OP,

When you get the pedal off, here's info for deciding on it's replacement.

Pedal spindles (axles) are made of a variety of steels and also of Titanium, which I'll simply rule out for your needs. The stength of the spindle depends on the type of steel, and a few design considerations.

Cheap pedals are made of carbon or low alloy steels, which are OK for most people, and have the advantage of bending before snapping. This is a plus as long as they hold up because a broken pedal is never fun. Better pedals use a boron steel alloy which imparts more strength, and the best pedals use Chrome-molybdenum (CrMo) or similar alloys which can be heat treated for high strength. At your weight I'd only use a CrMo spindle.

Then there are design considerations, the most important of which is the location of the inboard bearing (the one near the crank). Since the spindle has to step down in diameter you're best off with the bearing farthest from the crank. This allows for the larger diameter to extend farther out increasing strength against the bending moments pedals produce.

There are a number of decent pedals out there, so look for the basic features I mentioned, and see what your options are. Look also for a cast/forged aluminum body, and get the narrowest pedal that's wide enough to be comfortable. The reason I suggest a narrower pedal is it keeps you from moving your feet outboard which increases the bending stress on the spindle.

At your weight, you'll have trouble with pedal and bottom bracket life, no matter what you do, but you should have no problem getting pedals that wear out rather than bending or breaking.
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