Originally Posted by
pastorbobnlnh
What I would try in this instance is to fashion a block of wood that has a hole drilled in the center to accommodate the axle in order that the flange would fit flush against the wood. I'd then take a piece(s) of plywood to fit on the inside of the flange and around the center shaft of the hub.
Just my 2 cents.
I like this. However, has anyone tested if the hub shell would twist/distort on the old narrow-waisted rear hub shells?
Your plan is immobilize the non-drive side flange. And you are applying the usual freewheel-removing torque to the drive-side. Will this distort or even break the hub shell at the waist?
I read once where someone built a wheel in which the spokes on one flange were laced up in the wrong position - all one over from where they should have been. When the wheelbuilder started to apply the tension, and the wheel started to look reasonably true, he discovered to his horror that the lettering on the hub shell had spiralled. So basically the flanges had rotated relative to each other due to the spoke torque.